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Colour instinct: the art of personal colour analysis
The art of personal colour analysis, a trend popular in the 1980s, is experiencing a resurgence, largely driven by social media. This practice involves identifying which colours best complement an individual's natural skin tone, eye colour, and hair colour. Rachel Bilu, a colour analyst from Colour Lab Stylist, explains the process and benefits of this analysis. The initial step in colour analysis is to determine whether an individual has cool or warm skin undertones. This is typically achieved through a method called "draping," where various coloured fabrics are held against a person's face to observe how different shades interact with their complexion. Based on this assessment, individuals are categorized into one of four "seasons": Summer, Autumn, Winter, or Spring, each associated with a specific palette of colours. For virtual consultations, Bilu analyzes clear photographs of a client's face, meticulously cropping out hair and clothing to focus solely on the facial features. She then digitally places the client's face against various colour backgrounds to compare and eliminate options until the most flattering palette is identified.
While many clients are pleased to have their "season" confirmed, some initially resist the recommended colour palettes. Bilu encourages them to experiment, suggesting they try on clothes and makeup in the suggested colours without immediate purchase. She notes that in almost all such cases, clients later confirm the effectiveness of the recommendations, realizing the positive impact of wearing their optimal colours. A common revelation for many, especially those categorized outside of the Winter season, is learning that black, a staple in many wardrobes, may not be their most flattering colour. Bilu highlights that black is primarily suited for the Winter season, and other seasons often find alternatives to be more enhancing.
Bilu's expertise allows her to quickly discern how colours affect a person's appearance, noting if a shade accentuates dark circles, makes skin imperfections more prominent, or creates a "washed-out" look. Conversely, wearing the correct colours can subtly enhance features, such as providing a slight lift to the jawline and evening out skin tone, effectively creating a natural "airbrushing" effect. While an individual's "season" remains constant throughout their life, changes like going grey can impact how well certain colours harmonize with their complexion. For those in cool seasons, grey hair often blends seamlessly, but for warm seasons, the cool tones of grey hair may not harmonize as effectively, making adherence to their recommended clothing and makeup colours even more crucial.
Bilu emphasizes that natural hair colour is usually the most flattering, but some clients find that artificial hair colours, such as blonde highlights or warm red dyes, can further elevate their look if they align with their season's palette. Beyond aesthetic benefits, colour analysis offers practical advantages, particularly in an era of rising living costs. By understanding their ideal colour palette, individuals can build a more cohesive and versatile capsule wardrobe, reducing impulse purchases and minimizing clothing waste. This approach saves money in the long run and contributes to environmental sustainability by keeping clothes out of landfills. Bilu herself was motivated to explore colour analysis after noticing inconsistencies in her own outfits, realizing that a lack of colour harmony was the underlying issue. Now, with a wardrobe entirely composed of harmonizing colours, she experiences effortless outfit selection, a benefit she shares with her husband, who also happens to be a Soft Summer.
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