How to Hang Wallpaper (the Permanent Kind!)

Wallpaper is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, offering a fast and effective way to add personality and dimension to a space. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step approach to hanging both traditional and peel-and-stick wallpaper, along with expert tips for preparation, installation, and maintenance. Before embarking on a wallpapering project, several considerations are crucial. It is recommended to purchase extra wallpaper to account for potential errors, damage, or design adjustments. Planning the design in advance, including laying out the wallpaper in the correct order and marking strips, helps ensure a cohesive and symmetrical look, especially for patterned wallpapers. The choice of wallpaper should align with the room's function; light colors, for instance, may not be suitable for high-traffic areas or homes with children and pets due to their susceptibility to staining. Adhering to the manufacturer's instructions for each specific brand and type of wallpaper is also vital, as requirements can vary. For traditional wallpaper installation, the process begins with thorough wall preparation. This includes ensuring walls are flat by fixing any bumps or holes, painting the wall a base color to prevent seams from showing through, and sealing the walls with an oil-based primer followed by a wallpaper primer. These steps facilitate both smooth installation and eventual removal. All outlet and light switch faceplates should be removed, and sockets covered with tape for protection. Next, the wallpaper needs to be laid out and cut. This involves anticipating how the wallpaper will be hung, considering seam placement, and mapping out the design before cutting. An extra three inches should be left at the top and bottom of each strip for trimming. To ensure straight and level application, plumb lines should be created on each wall using a 6-foot level or a laser level, typically starting from the left and moving right, unless a focal point dictates otherwise. Applying wallpaper paste involves different methods. Traditional wallpaper often requires wallpaper paste and a process called "booking," where paste is applied to the paper, and then the paper is folded onto itself to allow the paste to soak in for about three minutes. Alternatively, some wallpapers allow for paste application directly to the wall, or they may feature a water-activated adhesive, requiring soaking in water before booking. The specific instructions provided with the wallpaper product should always be followed. After the paste has soaked, the wallpaper can be hung, starting from the top and using the plumb line as a guide. Bubbles are then removed using a plastic smoothing tool, working from the center outwards without stretching the paper. Finally, excess wallpaper at the top and bottom is trimmed with a fresh razor, guided by the baseboard or a level. Peel-and-stick wallpaper offers a less permanent and often more budget-friendly alternative. While it shares many installation steps with traditional wallpaper, such as wall preparation, layout, and using a level, it eliminates the need for paste or booking. Strips are applied from the top down, slowly and carefully, and bubbles are smoothed out. Excess material is then trimmed. Maintaining wallpaper to ensure its longevity is also addressed. For minor damage, a touch of paint or colored pencils can hide blemishes, while major damage may necessitate replacing a panel, highlighting the benefit of keeping extra wallpaper. Cleaning methods vary by wallpaper type: vinyl wallpaper is durable and washable with soap and water, while most paper wallpapers with a matte glaze can be gently wiped. Textured wallpapers made from natural materials like linen or grasscloth should only be vacuumed and never exposed to water. #WallpaperInstallation #DIYHomeDecor #HomeImprovement #InteriorDesign #WallpaperTips #PeelAndStickWallpaper #WallPreparation #HomeDecorating

This blog post details a personal experiment with temporary, peel-and-stick wallpaper, offering a practical, step-by-step guide for installation, along with lessons learned during the process. The author, not a seasoned DIY enthusiast, was intrigued by the product's promise of easy application and removal, making it ideal for renters or those hesitant about permanent decor changes. The experiment involved using four panels from Chasing Paper, including a chalkboard panel, a “Book Worm” print, and two “Wild” print panels, totaling $153.26 including taxes and shipping. The installation took approximately an hour and a half. The first step involved selecting a pattern, emphasizing that the abundance of choices makes narrowing them down the primary challenge. The author chose a chalkboard panel for a fridge, avoided geometric prints to better suit a pre-war apartment, and opted for a fun, slightly unconventional "Wild" print, highlighting the advantage of temporary wallpaper for taking design risks. A key tip provided is to select a chaotic or busy pattern to effectively conceal imperfections like bumps or bubbles during installation. Additionally, many companies offer cheap samples for pattern evaluation. The second step focuses on wall preparation, which included wiping down surfaces with a damp cloth to remove dirt, dust, and plaster remnants. The author notes that instructions were gleaned from another temporary wallpaper manufacturer, Swag Paper, due to a lack of specific guidance from Chasing Paper. A practical tip is to flatten the wallpaper panels under heavy books for a few days before installation to prevent curling edges, which can complicate the process. Measuring and cutting are detailed as the third and most time-consuming step. The author measured the specific areas for each panel, such as the fridge and freezer for the chalkboard, and a door for the “Book Worm” panels. The “Wild” panels were left uncut to serve as a painting-like accent between existing moldings, revealing varying molding widths in the apartment. The advice here is to consider temporary wallpaper as an alternative to a painting rather than a full room covering, using full panels as trompe l'oeil effects or vertical accents. The fourth step covers the actual application of the wallpaper. The recommended technique involves peeling off the top two corners of the backing, bending the backing away from the paper, sticking the exposed two to three inches to the wall, and then slowly and smoothly pulling the rest of the backing off while simultaneously smoothing the paper with hands. Finally, the fifth step addresses how to deal with bubbles and creases that may appear after application. The author found that a busy pattern, like the “Wild” and “Book Worm” prints, helped to obscure these imperfections more effectively than on the solid chalkboard panel. Chasing Paper suggests using a safety pin to pop air bubbles, followed by smoothing, and the author also found that carefully running a fingernail over creases could help eliminate them. The article concludes with a satisfied outlook on the purchase, noting how the patterns invigorated the walls and fridge, and promises a follow-up post to assess the wallpaper’s removal ease. #DIY #Renovation #TemporaryWallpaper #HomeImprovement #InteriorDesign #PeelAndStick #ApartmentDecor #HomeDecor #ChasingPaper

Peel-and-stick wallpaper is a popular and DIY-friendly option for refreshing interior walls, offering ease of repositioning and removal compared to traditional wallpaper. However, its longevity can vary, and some types may stick too aggressively, potentially damaging walls upon removal. Successful application hinges on proper surface preparation, adherence to instructions, and patience. The first crucial step is wall preparation. Most peel-and-stick wallpapers perform best on eggshell paint. If the wall surface feels dusty, gritty, or like flat paint, the wallpaper might not adhere properly. Conversely, a super shiny and smooth surface could lead to the wallpaper sticking too well, causing damage during removal. If applying new eggshell paint, it is recommended to wait approximately four weeks for the paint to offgas completely, preventing bubbles from forming under the wallpaper. Professionals often use Zinsser Gardz as a primer, which creates a translucent, slightly tacky sheen ideal for wallpaper adhesion. Once the wall is prepared, marking a plumb line for the first strip is essential. The starting point should be the most prominent area of the room to ensure a visually appealing result. A light vertical pencil line drawn with the aid of a level serves as a guide, ensuring the first piece is perfectly vertical without the line showing through the wallpaper. During application, peel off only about five inches of the backing at a time. The bulk of the wallpaper roll should rest on the floor, and the initial exposed section is applied to the wall, starting where the wall meets the ceiling. The plumb line helps maintain a straight vertical application. It is important to proceed slowly, peeling the backing in small increments to avoid catching the paper or stretching the image, which can occur with some types of peel-and-stick wallpaper due to the weight of the backing. Smoothing the wallpaper as it is applied is typically achieved with hands, but a smoothing tool should be kept handy for addressing any bubbles. Most peel-and-stick wallpapers allow for easy repositioning if mistakes are made. Excess paper at baseboards, windows, and outlets should be cut with a utility knife, leaving about two inches initially for adjustments. After positioning is finalized, a putty knife can be used to press the edges into crevices before making a final, precise cut. For subsequent pieces, peel off five inches of backing and align the pattern with the previously installed strip, starting from the top of the wall. Any excess paper at the top is trimmed after alignment. Papers without a repeating pattern do not require alignment. If bubbles appear after hanging, they can often be smoothed out by working from the outer edge to the center with a thumb. If this is ineffective, a tiny pinhole can be poked in the center of the bubble, followed by smoothing. A smoothing tool should be avoided at this stage to prevent stretching or damaging the wallpaper. Patience is critical throughout the entire process, and minor imperfections that are not noticeable from a distance should be accepted. #PeelAndStickWallpaper #DIYHomeImprovement #WallDecoration #HomeRenovation #InteriorDesign #WallpaperApplication #SurfacePreparation #DIYTips

Properly hanging pictures is a crucial step in completing a room's decor, adding visual interest and a finishing touch to bare walls. While it might seem straightforward, hanging pictures, whether individual pieces or an entire gallery wall, requires careful consideration of hardware installation, frame leveling, and thoughtful placement. Lucie Voves, CEO and founder of custom frame company Church Hill Classics, provides expert guidance on the best methods for achieving a professional look. Before embarking on the hanging process, two initial steps are essential: determining eye level and planning the frame's placement. Voves advises hanging pictures at eye level, specifically 55-60 inches from the ground, to ensure they are comfortably within the line of sight and not positioned too high or too low. To visualize the arrangement and avoid unnecessary holes, Voves suggests using paper templates cut to the exact size of the frames. These templates can be taped to the wall for a few days to assess the aesthetic and ensure satisfaction with the layout before any permanent alterations are made. The hanging process begins by marking the template. Once the paper templates are in their desired positions, a level should be used to confirm each "frame" is perfectly straight. The next step involves measuring the distance from the top of the actual picture frame to its hanging hardware. This measurement is then transferred to the paper template, marking the precise spot where the hardware will be installed. For installation, the type of hardware depends on the picture's weight. Lightweight frames may only require a few nails. A nail should be hammered into the marked spot on the template, leaving approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch protruding from the wall. For heavier frames, anchors and screws are necessary. A drywall drill bit, matching the width of the anchor, is used to create a hole. The anchor is then inserted into this hole, followed by slowly drilling the screw into the anchor, again leaving about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of overhang. After the hardware is installed, the picture frame is placed onto it and gently wiggled to ensure security. If the frame is not stable, the hardware should be adjusted as needed. Once secure, the paper template is carefully removed from behind the screws or nails. A level is used one final time to verify that the frame is perfectly straight. For those who cannot make holes in their walls, alternative methods exist. Stick-on picture hangers, available in strip or hook forms, offer a convenient solution. It is crucial to meticulously follow the manufacturer's instructions for a secure and lasting hold. Another hole-free option is to lean pictures against existing shelving or walls. To prevent sliding, a small strip of adhesive can be applied where the bottom of the frame meets the shelf. Common issues during picture hanging include crooked frames or slipping pictures. If a frame is crooked, a level can be used to straighten it. If it repeatedly fails to stay straight, reinstalling the hardware with greater precision is recommended. If a picture shows signs of slipping, the hardware can be screwed in closer to the wall. If the issue persists, the frame might be too heavy for the current placement, and reinstalling the hardware on a wall stud is advisable. Hanging pictures on different wall types requires specific approaches. Drywall is ideal due to its ease of drilling and repair. For brick walls, masonry screws, anchors, and specialized drill bits are needed, emphasizing the importance of precise hole placement due to the difficulty of correcting mistakes. When dealing with plaster walls, hammers and nails should be avoided to prevent cracking; instead, specially designed plaster screws are recommended. Hanging pictures on tile demands extreme care, as a misstep can crack the tile. It is best to install hardware into the tile mortar if possible. If not, multiple measurements and a diamond-head drill bit are essential for creating holes, and the tile should be cleaned beforehand. Expert decorating tips for hanging pictures include avoiding overcrowding, ensuring at least 2-3 inches of space around each piece for it to stand out. Scale and proportion are also critical; small pictures should not be hung on oversized walls, and vice versa. A useful guideline is the 2/3 rule: the width of the artwork (or combined width for a gallery) should be approximately two-thirds the width of the furniture piece beneath it. Creating a gallery wall is simplified by tracing frames onto paper, cutting out these shapes, and arranging them on the wall with tape to visualize different layouts, avoiding overly close placement or awkward heights. #PictureHanging #HomeDecor #GalleryWall #InteriorDesign #DIYHome #WallArt #HomeImprovement #DecoratingTips