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Colour analysis in jewellery: how to choose gems to best suit your look
The article discusses the application of professional colour analysis to jewellery, a concept that has been trending in Korea since 2022 and is popular on social media. Vivian Seo, founder of Find Your Colour Hong Kong, explains how jewellery choices, including metal types, materials, stones, and gems, can significantly influence one's overall appearance, complementing or contrasting with personal colour seasons. The historical context of colour theory, originating in the 19th century with visual arts principles and later adapted by American fashion designer Suzanne Caygill in the 1980s for personal styling, is also covered.
Seo emphasizes that the purpose of colour analysis is not to restrict choices but to guide individuals in selecting and pairing colours and accessories for a harmonious effect. The four main colour seasons (spring, summer, autumn, and winter) are further divided into subtypes such as light, soft, clear, deep, or true. These distinctions are determined by three key elements: hue (warm, cool, or neutral undertones), brightness (light, medium, or dark colours), and saturation (true or muted varieties). Each season is associated with specific colour palettes; for instance, spring types are best suited for warm and vibrant colours, while summer types benefit from cool, muted tones. Autumn types are encouraged to wear rich colours with depth and warmth, and winter types can confidently wear bold, intense, and cool shades.
Contrast plays a crucial role in styling, according to Seo. High contrast involves pairing stark colours like black and white or deep colours with pale ones, incorporating true shades, and using visually larger shapes. Conversely, low contrast involves using similar tones throughout an outfit, along with delicate patterns and smaller details. Jewellery acts as a flexible tool to adjust visual contrast; for example, bold statement earrings or necklaces can create high contrast for individuals whose season calls for vivid colours, especially when wearing less clothing in hotter temperatures. For those who suit softer, muted styles, layering multiple thin necklaces with small charms can soften the appearance of an ensemble.
Specific jewellery recommendations are provided for each season: spring types are advised to choose nature-inspired shapes and radiant, colourful gems; summer types, like Korean actor Song Hye-kyo, suit delicate styles, with pearls and linear designs working well, while yellow gold should be avoided due to its warmth. Autumn types are encouraged to layer different types of jewellery with rich textures and detailed elements, as demonstrated by Blackpink’s Rosé in gold necklaces and bracelets. Winter types, such as Priyanka Chopra, are best suited for bolder designs and clear contrasts, with diamonds and statement necklaces. Seo also offers advice on how to adapt jewellery pieces that might not align with one's personal colour season, such as choosing different metal tones or incorporating bolder makeup and voluminous hair to integrate challenging pieces into a glamorous look. Additionally, sentimental items can be repurposed creatively, like a necklace worn as a bracelet or charms attached to personal accessories.
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