This English designer uses old-world techniques to craft modern textiles

Textile manufacturing holds a significant place in Britain's history and continues to thrive today, thanks to a diverse array of homegrown fabric and textile designers. These designers are instrumental in preserving the crafts, skills, traditions, and quality that define the British textiles industry. For individuals looking to update their homes, whether through reupholstering furniture, refreshing window treatments, or revitalizing sofa cushions, engaging with these British designers offers an opportunity to support local craftsmanship and businesses, aligning with contemporary trends in sustainability and upcycling. Leading British textile designers draw inspiration from various sources, ranging from historical movements like the British Arts & Crafts to global cultures and natural environments. Ellen Merchant, for instance, blends William Morris's aesthetic with her unique perspective, creating hand-drawn botanical forms using traditional craft skills. Chelsea Gem, founded in Chelsea, produces abstract fabrics and wallpapers inspired by local life, all hand-drawn, cut, and printed using natural, sustainable, and locally sourced materials. Chelsea Textiles, established by Monica Perlhagen, specializes in recreating antique embroidery and incorporating authentic materials for traditional interiors, with collections that also feature Scandinavian influences and collaborations with renowned designers and hotels. Christopher Farr Cloth is recognized for its commitment to high-quality materials and traditional craftsmanship, offering playful and colorful designs influenced by diverse cultures and 20th-century artists. Clovelly Cloth draws from Victorian botanicals and the Arts and Crafts era, producing hand screen-printed designs in gentle mineral colorways that also extend to wallpapers. Cole & Son, founded in 1873, is celebrated for its bold and imaginative wallpapers and fabrics, characterized by vibrant patterns, colors, and global influences. Colefax & Fowler, a leading name in British textile manufacturing since the 1930s, balances traditional English roots with evolving designs, offering a wide range of fabrics and wallpapers beloved by interior designers. Designers Guild, founded by Tricia Guild in the 1970s, is a favorite for its versatile and stylish designs, such as the Minakari collection, which reinterprets florals with glamorous jacquards and printed velvets. Fermoie, launched by Farrow & Ball founders, uses natural dyes for its collections, emphasizing sustainability with natural raw materials and eco-friendly packaging. George Smith, a renowned furniture maker, also offers responsibly sourced, sustainable, and British-made upholstery fabrics with classic, understated designs. GP & J Baker, a Royal Warrant holder since 1882, boasts an extensive archive of designs from leading arts and crafts designers, skillfully adapted for modern tastes. House of Hackney, created by Frieda Gormley and Javvy M Royle, is known for its quirky, colorful, and distinctive patterns, often collaborating with other creatives. Jessica Osborne's fabrics are inspired by wild and natural environments, featuring vibrant, repetitive patterns printed on 100 percent linen. Madeaux produces charming fabrics and wallcoverings inspired by vintage tapestries and British wildlife. Nina Campbell's textiles are easily identifiable by their playful, feminine patterns and timeless appeal, ranging from traditional florals to bold contemporary designs. Osborne & Little, a brand since the 1960s, is celebrated for its imaginative approach, quality, and creative innovation, offering a mix of contemporary and classic designs. Parker & Jules, founded by Nancy Parker and Juliet O’Carroll, creates fabrics inspired by traditional British homes and diverse global influences, using pattern and maximalism to re-energize interiors. Penny Morrison's distinctive, characterful patterns are a staple in stylish homes, with collaborations that expand her extensive portfolio of bright colorways. Rapture & Wright specializes in hand-printed designs, utilizing traditional craft methods and operating a sustainable printworks. Rose Uniacke offers an organic and recycled fabric range, inspired by William Morris and 1920s patterns, with a focus on environmental principles. Sanderson, established in 1860, is known for its elegant hand-drawn designs, bold floral patterns, and highly pigmented colors, drawing inspiration from the English countryside and global influences. Soane Britain offers a range of furniture, upholstery, lighting, and distinctive fabrics and wallpapers, often inspired by antique textiles and made in British mills using traditional methods like block and screen printing, with custom service options available. #BritishTextileDesigners #InteriorDesign #FabricDesign #HomeDecor #SustainableTextiles #Craftsmanship #Upholstery #Wallcoverings

Susan “Rabbit” Goody, founder of Thistle Hill Weavers in Cherry Valley, New York, has dedicated her life to the meticulous reproduction of historic textiles. Her workshop, established in 1989, specializes in creating fabrics that faithfully replicate the weave, texture, weight, and color of historical materials for a diverse clientele including filmmakers, television producers, historic houses, and high-end furniture and clothing companies. Goody’s unique skill set makes her an indispensable resource for costume designers seeking unparalleled historical accuracy in their productions. Goody's journey into textiles began in her teenage years, driven by a fascination with the weaving process. After earning a degree in cultural anthropology and ethnomusicology from Bennington College in 1972, she moved to rural New York, where she initially supported herself through farm work. In 1975, she purchased a 150-acre farmstead and, with her first husband, built a home inspired by a 1690 Connecticut house. She developed a successful hand-weaving business, selling cashmere-and-silk scarves to stores like Saks Fifth Avenue. Her expertise grew during her tenure as head of the domestic arts program and curator of textiles at the Farmers’ Museum in Cooperstown, where she became a recognized authority on early American textiles. Goody also founded the Textile History Forum, an annual conference that convenes researchers, museum professionals, and scholars. In 1989, she moved her operation into an old feed mill, later expanding to a purpose-built facility next to her home. Today, Thistle Hill Weavers employs seven individuals trained by Goody to operate nine mechanized shuttle looms, some dating back to the 1890s, alongside archaic equipment like warp winders and quillers. Goody’s commitment to authenticity is evident in her approach to acquiring and maintaining machinery. She has salvaged looms from closing textile mills across several states, often from the legendary industrial loom-maker Crompton & Knowles, and has taught herself to repair and operate them. This dedication ensures that her workshop can produce textiles with historical integrity. Her fabrics have graced numerous film and television productions, including "The Gilded Age," _Cinderella Man_, _Master and Commander_, _No Country for Old Men_, _Noah_, "John Adams," and "Turn: Washington’s Spies." She even hand-wove a replica of a fragment of the original Star-Spangled Banner for a Smithsonian event. When a costume designer approaches Thistle Hill, Goody employs a blend of historical knowledge and modern technology. She uses a computer-attached loom to experiment with weave patterns and selects threads to match specific weight, texture, and color requirements. Her process involves creating small woven samples, which are then expedited to clients for review. This meticulous attention to detail is crucial, as even subtle changes in yarn weight or color can significantly alter a fabric’s character, impacting an actor's movement and the overall authenticity of a period piece. For instance, a fabric she produced for Tom Hanks’ overcoat in _Road to Perdition_ had to be re-woven with lighter materials for rain scenes due to its original, historically accurate weight making it too heavy when wet. Goody’s reputation as a historian and her practical skills make her an invaluable collaborator. Costume designers like Joanna Johnston, who worked with Goody on Steven Spielberg’s _Lincoln_, praise her weaving abilities and extensive historical knowledge. Goody recreated Abraham Lincoln’s shawl for Daniel Day-Lewis based on a detailed study of the original held by the Smithsonian. Beyond film, her work extends to historic preservation, such as creating delicate white dimity curtains for Emily Dickinson’s bedroom and a brightly striped Venetian carpet. She also produces custom fabrics for diverse applications, including a 'Mandalorian' cloak, demonstrating the versatility of her workshop. At 72, Goody remains actively involved in her mill and farm, displaying no plans for retirement, driven by her passion and the unique, irreplaceable skills she possesses in bringing the past tangibly to life through textiles. #TextileHistory #HistoricTextiles #CostumeDesign #FilmProduction #ThistleHillWeavers #RabbitGoody #LoomWeaving #TextileConservation #CulturalHeritage

This article celebrates the centenary of Lucienne Day, a pivotal figure in post-war British design, renowned for her vibrant, modernist textile designs. Lucienne Day, born on January 5, 1917, in Croydon, south London, studied at Croydon School of Art and the Royal College of Art (RCA) in the late 1930s, where she met her future husband, furniture designer Robin Day. Her RCA diploma show featured hand-block and screen-printed bold repeats, displayed alongside her husband's furniture, illustrating a nascent collaboration that would define both their careers. While their works often complemented each other, Lucienne Day forged a distinctive path in textiles, driven by a resolute modernist vision. Paula Day, Lucienne's daughter and director of the Robin and Lucienne Day Foundation, draws parallels between her mother's enduring influence and that of William Morris, highlighting the timeless quality of Lucienne's work. Paula suggests that Day's designs possess a "startling power and originality" that distinguishes them from many retro-style patterns. Lucienne Day sought to invigorate the textile industry with fresh, contemporary designs, drawing inspiration from modern artists such as Paul Klee, Joan Miró, and Alexander Calder, as well as decorative traditions from her studies at the V&A Museum. Plant forms, for example, consistently reappeared throughout her body of work. Her breakthrough came with 'Calyx', a stylized floral textile design launched at the 1951 Festival of Britain. This design, mixing muted and acid colors, was a radical departure in pattern aesthetics. Despite initial skepticism from Heal's fabrics director Tom Worthington, 'Calyx' proved immensely successful, leading to a two-decade-long collaboration with Heal's, during which she produced approximately 70 patterns for the brand. 'Calyx' remains in production today, a testament to its enduring appeal. Lucienne Day's style was characterized by continuous evolution, a responsiveness to fashion trends without merely following them, and an exploration of new artistic techniques. Early 1950s designs, such as 'Dandelion Clocks' and 'Trio', showcased quirky motifs rendered with fine black lines on solid colored backgrounds. Later, she experimented with monoprint techniques, creating textured effects through drawings on acetate sheets applied to tissue paper collages, as seen in 'Cadenza' and 'Night and Day'. Her architectural designs of the mid-1970s, including 'Apex' and 'Lucienne', led to her invention of "silk mosaics," a new textile medium using one-centimeter squares of richly colored silk to form strong abstract patterns. Among her vast portfolio, Paula Day finds 'Night and Day', a tea towel designed for Irish linen manufacturer Thomas Somerset in 1961, particularly poignant. This design, which perfectly balances a strong monoprint drawing of an owl with textured paper sun rays, symbolizes the relationship between her parents. Over her 60-year career, Lucienne Day collaborated with numerous prominent brands, including Liberty, John Lewis, Cole & Son, and Rosenthal, applying her distinctive flair to fabrics, wallpapers, carpets, homeware, and ceramics. Her unique combination of color, line, form, and composition created a recognizable style that continues to resonate decades later. Lucienne Day received significant accolades, becoming the first woman to be made master of Royal Designers for Industry in 1987 and awarded an OBE in 2004. She passed away in 2010 at the age of 93. In commemoration of her centenary, the Robin and Lucienne Day Foundation has released 100 previously unseen images of her work, which are featured on a 'Lucienne Day 100' poster and will be showcased in exhibitions, events, and awards throughout 2017. #LucienneDay #TextileDesign #ModernistDesign #BritishDesign #PostWarDesign #PatternDesign #MidCentury #DesignCentenary #DesignIcon

The article presents an interview between Joy Moyler and Esha Ahmed, focusing on Ahmed’s journey into textile design and the philosophy behind her brand, Makrosha. Esha Ahmed, born in Bangladesh and raised in New York, recounts her early introduction to textiles through her mother’s extensive sari collection in Jackson Heights. These early experiences, including playfully repurposing saris into costumes, sparked her interest in fabrics and fashion. Ahmed's formal education at the Fashion Institute of Technology, where she studied fashion design and later costume preservation and textiles for her master’s, further solidified her passion. Her initial career involved managing designer Peter Marino's extensive textile collection, an experience that broadened her understanding of textiles within interior design, covering commercial, residential, and hospitality projects. This role provided insight into both the creation and application of textiles, exposing her to numerous vendors and artisans. Following her tenure with Marino, Ahmed launched Makrosha, a business specializing in fabric, rugs, and throw pillows. A core mission for Makrosha is to preserve and support vanishing traditional weaving arts globally, ensuring the survival of high-quality, handcrafted textiles. Ahmed collaborates with weavers worldwide, each contributing unique methods and aesthetics to her designs. She also partners with designers for custom textiles and represents Aïssa Dione Tissus, a Senegalese master weaver known for handwoven fabrics. Ahmed draws inspiration from historical fashion design, particularly medieval styles, and shares an affinity for late 18th-century Europe and medieval Spain, periods known for their ornate, colorful, and detailed designs that resulted from cultural fusions. She acknowledges the historical influence of the fashion industry on luxury home textiles, observing how trends from designers like Dries Van Noten often translate into the home market. However, Ahmed expresses concerns about the modern culture of disposability and emphasizes the importance of sustainability and longevity in design. She advocates for investing in high-quality items, such as hand-knotted rugs that can take months to create, intending for them to last generations rather than being treated as disposable goods. Her design process involves starting with inspirations from her antique collection, developing renderings with mills, and collaborating closely with individual makers across different cultures, such as those in Laos, Nepal, and England, to ensure the essence of craftsmanship is maintained. Ahmed stresses that true quality and craftsmanship come from this collaborative, hands-on approach. The conversation highlights the critical need to protect traditional weaving practices from extinction due to increasing mechanization, underscoring Makrosha's role in keeping these artisanal skills alive. #TextileDesign #GlobalWeaving #EshaAhmed #Makrosha #InteriorDesign #SustainableDesign #ArtisanalCraftsmanship #FashionHistory #HomeDecor

This article highlights various home decor and furniture pieces, emphasizing unique designs, craftsmanship, and the stories behind their creation. It features a reintroduction of the Lawrence Peabody chair from 1962, now custom-crafted in America from solid teak or wicker with high-density foam cushions and customizable fabric choices. Another piece is Shanan Campanaro's largest rug collection for Eskayel, inspired by Marrakech and the High Atlas Mountains. This collection includes the Kotoubia/Duomo rug, made from Merino wool and silk blend, hand-knotted with varied weave structures and pile heights. The article also presents a whimsical kitchen apron called 'Siberia' by Helen Wilson of Witch and Watchman, depicting a jungle of animals on a crimson Siberica leaf background, offering an eccentric take on chinoiserie. Pillows designed by Sigi Ahl are showcased, crafted from felt made from recycled clothing by Eileen Fisher, as part of Fisher's zero-waste initiative, which has seen over a million clothing items returned. Joana Aranha's Fingerprint Chaise Longue, made from Indian Acacia wood with an extra matte varnish and a linen-cotton blend upholstery, is also featured. Her pillows incorporate hand-sewn gold zippers and a trademark tassel with the 'flower of India' insignia, inspired by a red flower Aranha found in New Delhi. Adriana Hoyos' Rumba upholstered chair is described with its distinctive silhouette, pronounced curves, generous seat, and gold-finish metal studs on a wooden frame, combining comfort, craftsmanship, and design. The Francis desk, named after Hillary Petrie's father, is presented as a simple yet complex piece with intricate joinery, ideal for floating in a room. This custom version is crafted from natural Douglas fir with a clear water-based finish and saddle leather drawers, all made in Egg Collective's woodshop or in collaboration with New York City fabricators. Michael Wainwright's new artisanal dinnerware brand for Lenox, 'Crafted,' introduces the Pompeii collection, which features durable stoneware with charming blue-on-white patterns and gold accents, designed for playful layering and everyday use. The Margot Chest by Bruce Andrews is highlighted for its dazzling emerald green, piano-ribbed front, and silver leaf-covered solid maple base with contoured legs. Handcrafted in America, this piece measures 40 3/4 inches wide, 18 3/4 inches deep, and 44 inches tall from its 12-inch leg. Aoife Mullane's textiles feature foiling on fabric, drawing inspiration from sea glass and pebbles, incorporating glamorous metallic touches in bronze, copper, and silver. Michele Varian's lighting designs are noted for their use of solid, unplated metals like brass, copper, or steel, with sculptural Mala 'bead' pendants inspired by Constantin Brancusi and modern primitive design, which will naturally patina over time. Alexandra Petrache's HALFDROP textile collection, specifically the Layers Yellow pattern, is shown, inspired by antique Romanian rag rugs. This reinterpretation features bold, organically layered patterns in mustard yellow and complementary grays, with hand-drawn lines enhancing fluidity. These 20-inch pillows are made of 100 percent cotton. The Lake Shore Watercolor Console from John Strauss Furniture is presented as a piece of art, featuring a watercolor by Tracy Hiner digitally printed and applied as a veneer to the doors, protected by an acrylic coating. The console has a satin sheen navy lacquer finish, stainless steel legs, and touch-latch doors with adjustable shelves. Lastly, Stacy Kunstel's Chunky Captain Compass Table, designed with Michael Partenio, features a massive turned maple base painted in a glossy custom Benjamin Moore color, Blueberry Hill, and topped with a 48-inch white-honed Carrara marble. Maggie Cruz’s Alexandra Cane Bench, influenced by her Cuban heritage and Miami, showcases Art Deco styling in a coral dust finish with white-washed cane and optic white linen upholstery. #HomeDecor #FurnitureDesign #InteriorStyling #TextileDesign #ArtisanCraftsmanship #SustainableDesign #ModernPrimitiveDesign #ArtDeco

French architect Clarisse Merlet, through her studio FabBRICK, is demonstrating the significant potential of recycling textile waste into viable construction materials. Originating from a school project, Merlet's initiative addresses the substantial pollution generated by the construction and fashion industries. The fashion industry alone contributes millions of tons of textile waste annually in Europe, with a considerable portion remaining uncollected. FabBRICK aims to transform this discarded textile into insulating, structural, and aesthetic building bricks, which can then be used to create furniture or partition walls. The development process involved extensive experimentation to refine the technique. Initially, discarded textiles are sorted by color, responding to customer preferences as FabBRICK avoids dyeing its bricks, instead deriving color from the source materials. The textile is then shredded into fibers of varying lengths (7mm, 20mm, or 40mm) depending on the project's requirements. A crucial element of the process is the proprietary, 100% ecological binding agent, developed with an engineer, which transforms the textile fibers into a clay-like consistency. This binding agent was specifically formulated to be rot-proof and mold-resistant, overcoming a significant challenge in using organic waste for construction. The mixture of fibers and glue is carefully weighed to ensure consistent density before being manually loaded into a patented machine. This machine compresses the mixture into brick form over approximately 30 minutes. The bricks then undergo a natural drying process in ambient air for 10 to 15 days. Once cured, these bricks exhibit impressive characteristics, including mechanical resistance comparable to concrete blocks, good acoustic and thermal insulation properties, and satisfactory fire resistance. While they possess good water resistance, indoor use is currently recommended. FabBRICK's business model emphasizes local production, with all ingredients and machinery sourced locally in France. This commitment to proximity is a core value, aiming to foster local manufacturing and reduce environmental impact. Despite its local focus, the studio has a global vision, recognizing the ubiquitous nature of fast fashion waste. The long-term plan involves automating the production process to increase recycling capacity and replicating the FabBRICK Factory model first within France and then internationally. This expansion strategy seeks to establish local production units globally, situated close to sources of textile waste, thereby promoting sustainable construction practices worldwide. #SustainableDesign #InnovativeMaterials #TextileRecycling #EcoFriendlyConstruction #CircularEconomy #ArchitecturalInnovation #LocalProduction #FabBRICK

Margo Selby, a celebrated designer-weaver, has been at the forefront of innovative textile design for over a decade, distinguishing her work through the creation of colourful, three-dimensional fabrics that form the core of her vibrant cushions, throws, rugs, and various home accessories. Her signature style, characterized by strong graphics and intricate patterns, originates from her Kent studio, where she utilizes a 24-shaft dobby loom to develop her unique hand-woven textiles before they are put into production by specialized mills. Selby's artistic journey is deeply rooted in her family's tradition of textile craftsmanship, with her grandmother, Edith Selby, having taught her crocheting and cross-stitching. This early exposure to textile arts naturally led her to pursue a focus on textiles during her foundation studies at Chelsea College of Arts, where she also explored graphic design, sculpture, and three-dimensional design. Her formal education continued with an MA in woven textiles from the Royal College of Art, followed by a fellowship at The Ann Sutton Foundation. During her fellowship, Selby engaged in projects that included developing products for Shetland wool and designing dobby fabrics for the interiors fabric industry in Yorkshire, establishing her initial connections with industrial mills. It was through these experiences that Selby began to bridge her hand-woven concepts with industrial manufacturing processes, leading to the development of her brand's hallmark silk and Lycra fabrics. The inspiration for her innovative three-dimensional fabric concept stemmed from her fascination with surface and texture, particularly the desire to emulate the tactile quality of bubble wrap packaging using silk. This pursuit involved extensive research into different fibers that would shrink when exposed to heat, which she then wove in combination with silk to achieve the desired three-dimensional surfaces. Selby's design philosophy is intrinsically linked to the art of weaving, which serves as the primary source of inspiration for all her creations. Beyond her personal handloom work, she actively explores global trends in woven textiles, drawing stimulation from highly decorative designs rich in pattern and color. Recent collections reflect an appreciation for indigenous and tribal fabrics, including techniques such as Japanese dyeing and African prints. The design process for her fabrics begins with the careful planning of the warp, which forms the structural backbone of the fabric on the loom, allowing for experimentation with different structures and weft yarns until a satisfactory product is achieved. This methodical and contemplative approach allows the fabric to evolve one row at a time, providing ample opportunity for design refinement. Once a fabric design is perfected through numerous developmental warps, Selby explores its potential for industrial production, collaborating with mills. For her flooring collection, her woven patterns were adapted into carpet constructions, manufactured in the UK. Operating from an open-plan studio in Whitstable, Selby immerses herself in a creative environment filled with materials, yarns, and inspiring imagery. Her daily routine involves addressing emails and collaborating with her team before dedicating the majority of her day to weaving at her loom. Her collaborations extend to companies like Alternative Flooring, for which she developed wool carpet and runner designs inspired by her deflected double-weave hand-woven cloths. Selby sources yarns globally, with Japan and the US being notable for their vibrant hand-weaving communities, and emphasizes selecting the most skilled weavers for specific material types. The business, which began in her bedroom, has expanded significantly to a bustling textile studio employing eight full-time staff and additional piece workers in Whitstable, focusing on bespoke textiles for a diverse range of applications. The handloom and the traditional craft of weaving remain central to all her products. The current re-emergence of carpet and color in fashion presents an exciting opportunity for her designs, particularly the translation of soft silk and wool fabric designs into large-scale, recolored flooring options. Selby's future plans include developing interiors fabrics for sale by the meter and expanding her accessories range to include bedlinen and towels. #TextileDesign #MargoSelby #WovenTextiles #HandloomWeaving #ThreeDimensionalFabrics #InteriorDesign #HomeAccessories #Craftsmanship #IndustrialCollaboration

The Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft in Ditchling, England, is currently hosting an exhibition titled "Double Weave: Bourne and Allen’s Modernist Textiles," which aims to reintroduce the British textile company Bourne and Allen, and its founders Hilary Bourne and Barbara Allen, into the annals of design history. Active in the mid-1900s, Bourne and Allen produced a range of iconic woven fabrics, yet their contributions have largely faded from public memory. This retrospective seeks to correct that oversight by highlighting their innovative craftsmanship and personal story. Hilary Bourne and Barbara Allen were partners in both life and business, and their company was known for blending modernist aesthetics with traditional craft techniques. They frequently utilized natural materials and plant dyes, sourcing wools from across the United Kingdom. Their products, which included woven scarves, tweeds, and furnishing fabrics, were carried by prestigious department stores and design houses such as Liberty of London, Heal’s, and Fortnum and Mason. Bourne and Allen also played a significant role in major theatrical and film productions of their era. Notably, they designed expansive stage curtains and furnishing fabrics for the Royal Festival Hall in London, built for the 1951 Festival of Britain. Their work extended to Hollywood, where they produced 52,000 yards of custom-woven fabric for the costumes of 452 actors and 25,000 extras in the epic film *Ben-Hur*. The exhibition, which is the culmination of extensive archival research conducted by a team of ten, delves into the duo’s work, their lives, and their four-decade-long relationship. Various sections of the show explore their distinct weaving techniques, the materials they employed, their global inspirations, their personal backgrounds, and key career achievements. The displayed fabrics, encompassing both swatches and longer lengths, illustrate Bourne and Allen’s unique aesthetic, characterized by bright primary colors derived from natural dyes like indigo (blue), madder (red), and weld (yellow), contrasted with the natural hues of undyed sheep’s wool. The use of Lurex alongside dark yarns and varied weaving techniques such as plain weave, double weave, chenille, ikat, and floats of thick hand-spun yarns, created alluring textures. The exhibition contextualizes Bourne and Allen within a vibrant, women-centered community of craftspeople in England that predated World War II. A display titled “Map of intimacies: Women’s networks of love, friendship, and textile practice” visually charts the collaborative and intimate relationships among the women—friends, lovers, companions, business partners, and sisters—who influenced Bourne’s and Allen’s lives and work. To demonstrate the enduring relevance of Bourne and Allen's legacy, the exhibition incorporates commissions from two contemporary artists, Poppy Fuller Abbott and Omeima Mudawi-Rowlings. Abbott, a weaver from Sussex, created a piece inspired by the mid-century designers' techniques using indigo-dyed linen with silk floats, and also wove textile samples that replicate Bourne and Allen's fabrics for visitors to handle. A film in a dedicated viewing room documents Abbott’s weaving process. Mudawi-Rowlings's site-specific installation, "Drawn to the Light (نور)," features long swathes of silk dyed with plant materials and printed with personal symbols, reflecting themes of interconnectedness and personal identity amidst global events. Ultimately, "Double Weave" serves as a meditation on themes of love, loss, home, and land. It underscores how the act of weaving, both literally and metaphorically, involves intertwining traditions across time and place, fostering a continuous dialogue through generations in the form of fabric. #TextileHistory #MidCenturyDesign #ModernistTextiles #BritishDesign #Craftsmanship #QueerHistory #DitchlingMuseum #TextileArt #ExhibitionReview

The project "Knowing the Ropes," initiated by designers Brynhildur Pálsdóttir, Þuriður Rós Sigurþórsdóttir, and Theresa Himmer, delves into the ubiquitous nature and varied applications of rope, challenging conventional perceptions of this utilitarian material. This artistic endeavor explores the cultural and structural significance of rope within a Scandinavian context, specifically focusing on its dual existence in interior design and maritime industries. The designers utilize two historical production facilities, Hampiðjan in Reykjavík, Iceland, and Aarhus Possementfabrik in Denmark, both established in the early 20th century and employing similar machinery. These facilities represent the divergent paths of rope production: one for marine use and the other for interior textiles. The core of the project lies in highlighting the unexpected aesthetic and functional intersections that arise when examining a material with such diverse applications. The genesis of "Knowing the Ropes" dates back to 2017. Over time, the project evolved from its initial conceptualization into a comprehensive body of work, culminating in a publication and an exhibition featuring objects and video installations. The initial exhibition was held at the Reykjavík Art Museum in 2021, showcasing the designers' innovative interpretations and creations. The artists further developed their project by presenting an evolved version at the Hallwyl Museum in Stockholm. This particular venue, a meticulously preserved Victorian home from the turn of the 20th century, provided a unique juxtaposition for the contemporary design pieces. The museum's ornate and traditional environment offered a striking contrast to the modern and unconventional objects crafted from rope, creating an unexpectedly modern aesthetic within a historical setting. The exhibition features a range of objects that reimagine the use of rope in everyday items and art installations. These pieces include floor lamps with rope-wrapped bodies and exposed light bulbs, demonstrating how rope can be integrated into lighting design to create a distinctive texture and form. Pedestals made entirely from rope showcase the material's structural capabilities and its potential as a sculptural element. A standing round mirror, framed and supported by intricate rope work, highlights the material's versatility in creating decorative and functional home furnishings. A modern three-legged table also utilizes rope in its construction, presenting it as a primary material rather than a mere accent. Additionally, arch-shaped shelving units, crafted with rope netting, illustrate innovative approaches to storage and display. Through these creations, Pálsdóttir, Sigurþórsdóttir, and Himmer prompt viewers to reconsider the inherent qualities of rope and its potential for artistic and design expression. The project not only celebrates the craftsmanship and heritage associated with rope making but also pushes the boundaries of how textiles can be perceived and utilized in contemporary design. The juxtaposition of modern designs with a historic setting further emphasizes the timeless appeal and adaptability of this fundamental material, inviting a deeper appreciation for the overlooked elements of our material world. #TextileArt #RopeDesign #ScandinavianDesign #MaterialExploration #ContemporaryArt #ExhibitionDesign #InteriorFurnishings #DesignInnovation

Sophie Stone, a textile artist based in Long Island City, Queens, is known for her intricate textile works that blend classic crafts with contemporary narratives. Her studio is a treasure trove of fabrics, ranging from 19th-century crazy quilts to vintage napkins and even stretchy strings, all serving as material for her creations. Stone's artistic journey began at the Rhode Island School of Design, where she studied painting but gravitated towards unconventional surfaces. She collected various found objects and materials, pondering how to integrate them into her art. The turning point came with a dream about crafting large rugs from bedsheets. This vision materialized when artist Jessi Reaves invited Stone to participate in a 2016 two-person exhibition at Del Vaz Projects in Los Angeles. For this show, Stone created unique, mesmerizing composites for floors and walls by cutting and weaving plastic mats, industrial carpeting, and everyday fabrics. Her process is largely intuitive; she describes entering a trance-like state as she selects materials and begins to work. Stone’s versatility is evident in her diverse commissions and projects. She has created bespoke rag rugs from salvaged and new materials for a Brooklyn project with AD100 designer Adam Charlap Hyman, who also commissioned a slipcover for a Hudson Valley fireplace. For a recent group show, "The Loving Cup," at Manhattan’s Jacqueline Sullivan Gallery, Stone reimagined antique doilies, traditionally used to cover open glasses, by decorating them with sparkly fishing lures, adding a modern and whimsical touch. Her studio reflects her creative ethos, filled with textiles sourced from eBay and estate sales, alongside beads, dried flowers, charms, and other decorative elements. This eclectic mix consciously or subconsciously links womanhood and traditional crafts, reminiscent of quilting circles and slumber party bracelet-making. Stone values the slow, manual nature of her work, which she finds grounding. She notes that the time-consuming process of using her hands, away from digital distractions, keeps her engaged in the present moment. Stone’s work, which combines historical textiles with contemporary artistic expression, has garnered attention, with her creations being featured in AD’s June issue. Her ability to transform disparate materials into cohesive and compelling art pieces highlights her unique approach to textile art, giving new life to old threads and infusing them with personal and contemporary narratives. #SophieStone #TextileArt #ContemporaryCrafts #TextileArtist #QueensStudio #RagRugs #FoundObjects #ArtisticProcess #HomeDecor #HandmadeArt

Riddhi Jain Satija, founder of Studio Medium, a Delhi-based apparel and home textile design space, reinterprets traditional handwoven textiles using intensive resist-dyeing techniques. Her work seamlessly integrates diverse textile traditions, such as the JamBan collection, which combines Bengal’s jamdani weave with Gujarat’s bandhani tie-dye. The design process at Studio Medium is textile-driven, starting with the selection and treatment of fabrics before garment construction. The team finalizes a color palette, which artisans then use to prepare for the tie-dye process, while Satija collaborates with her design team on sample sketches, garment construction patterns, and shade cards for upcoming collections. The dyeing processes at Studio Medium involve a meticulous back-and-forth approach, with a focus on achieving precision in shibori tie-dye patterns. Artisans engage in fabric tying using techniques like Arashi shibori, also known as the pole-wrapping technique. This method involves diagonally wrapping ivory fabric around PVC poles and securing it tightly with thread, then scrunching the cloth to create accordion-like folds. The term 'Arashi,' meaning 'storm' in Japanese, reflects the diagonal patterns that resemble falling rain. After preparation, the fabric-wrapped poles are submerged in a hot water bath, followed by the addition of natural and azo-free dyes. The shade is carefully monitored, and salt is incorporated to enhance color vibrancy. Once the desired color is achieved, the poles are sun-dried to remove excess dye, revealing intricate patterns resembling leaf veins upon untying. Following the dyeing and drying processes, tailors begin garment construction. The apparel then proceeds to artisans who hand-embroider or stitch to finalize each piece. Every stage of design and production at Studio Medium emphasizes high craftsmanship, detailed work, and a strong commitment to sustainability. Once completed, garments undergo rigorous quality checks, ironing, and display. The studio integrates core upcycling ethics into its operations, striving for zero-waste patterns and innovative upcycling of by-products. For instance, threads from the bandhani technique and fabric scraps from past collections or garment construction are transformed into unique textile art. Bandhani thread clusters are meticulously arranged on fabric and then sandwiched between another layer, secured with Kantha stitching to create textiles for outerwear in the 'Re' collection, which draws inspiration from Monet’s impressionist paintings. Another initiative is the 'Bor(r)o(w)' collection, which is based on Japanese mending philosophies, specifically the Boro art form. Artisans freely arrange fabric scraps from previous collections or waste materials onto new fabric, patching, stitching, and piecing them together to preserve their beauty. Studio Medium applies various dyeing techniques to hand-woven textiles to create a range of classic silhouettes, including kaftans, capes, shirts, saris, and jackets. Riddhi Jain Satija emphasizes that design is not merely about creating new items but about observing the environment and introducing simple innovations. She also highlights the importance of respecting the comfort and expertise of weavers and dyers, aiming to design mindfully and foster an inclusive and sustainable community of practitioners to generate unique narratives and experiences. Her personal journey into tie-dye began in her mother’s workshop in Kolkata, influenced by Jaipuri bandhani and Kutch district techniques, later exploring Japanese shibori at the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad, where her fascination with the 'circle' as a design element continues to inspire her work. #TextileDesign #ResistDyeing #StudioMedium #RiddhiJainSatija #SustainableFashion #HandwovenTextiles #Shibori #Upcycling #IndianCrafts

Echo Petersen, founder of E Lee Designs, has found a creative outlet for her artistic passion by creating a variety of home decor and kitchen items featuring unique swirled acrylic paint designs. Petersen's work, which includes handblown coasters, trivets, charcuterie boards, and holiday ornaments, will be showcased at the 605 Made Holiday Market in Sioux Falls. Her designs are characterized by their vibrant colors and intricate patterns, achieved through a technique of blowing acrylic paints with drinking straws onto surfaces like ceramic tiles, wooden cutting boards, and canvases. This method allows colors to remain separate and distinct without blending, resulting in visually striking pieces. Petersen's journey into this craft began after she retired from her career as a financial assistant. Inspired by a set of handblown coasters she encountered during a trip to Fort Collins, Colorado, she dedicated herself to learning and mastering the technique. This involved extensive research through online videos and significant experimentation to develop her own proprietary mix of acrylic artist paints. Her husband, Bryce, supports her endeavors by creating custom oak frames for her canvas pieces. Each item crafted by Petersen undergoes a meticulous, multi-stage process that spans approximately one week. After the initial paint application, the piece requires time to dry and for the paint to cure. Following this, Petersen prepares the item by sanding its back and carefully taping it before applying a resin layer, which then takes an additional three days to dry. This commitment to quality ensures the durability and longevity of her handmade products. E Lee Designs offers a range of items, from small porcelain tile coasters to larger six-inch porcelain trivets and various wooden cutting boards. A particularly popular item that frequently sells out is her bamboo charcuterie board, which features pullout drawers and includes small wooden utensils, all adorned with her signature handblown paint designs. Petersen prioritizes using high-quality materials to ensure customer satisfaction and product resilience. In her creative process, Petersen pays close attention to current interior design trends, specifically monitoring popular colors in furniture and granite countertops. This awareness guides her selection of hues, ensuring her designs complement contemporary home aesthetics. She also incorporates micro powder glitter into her paints to add a subtle shimmer to the finished pieces. Popular color palettes in her collection include gray-beige, purple, and various autumn colors, while her personal favorite combination involves navy blue, moss green, and gold. This will be E Lee Designs' first participation in the 605 Made Holiday Market, though Petersen has previously showcased her work at vendor shows across South Dakota in cities such as Brookings, Pierre, Aberdeen, and Yankton. The 605 Made Holiday Market, an event organized by Knotty Gnome Variety & Salvage, Sew Doggy Boutique, and SiouxFalls.Business, and sponsored by The First National Bank in Sioux Falls and Dakota Business Finance, will feature over 40 makers. It is scheduled for Saturday, December 7, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Cherapa Place in downtown Sioux Falls, with free admission for attendees. #E Lee Designs #HandmadeDecor #AcrylicPouring #HomeDecor #HolidayMarket #Craftsmanship #ArtisanProducts #SmallBusiness #SiouxFallsEvents

Dorothy Cosonas, creative director at KnollTextiles, is a significant figure in contemporary textile design, recognized for her ability to blend historical tradition with forward-thinking aesthetics. With seven of her designs, including four of her own creations, inducted into the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum's permanent collection, Cosonas upholds Knoll's legacy of modern textiles for contemporary interiors. Her approach deviates from the rigid Modernist textiles historically associated with Knoll, incorporating deep colors, patterns, and ornaments. This nuanced aesthetic is a result of her extensive experience and unique design philosophy. Cosonas's career began after graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology, where she honed her skills in fine arts and textile design. Mentored by Sina Pearson at Unika Vaev, she developed a keen understanding of the textile industry and a talent for modern design. She rose to Vice President of Design at Unika Vaev before joining KnollTextiles in 2005, taking the helm of the textile division established by design icon Florence Knoll Bassett. Her tenure at KnollTextiles is marked by a deep respect for the brand's heritage, as she currently delves into the company's archives in preparation for its 70th anniversary. She emphasizes the importance of maintaining Knoll's reputation for aesthetic, principle, and refinement, viewing her role as a continuation of a lineage of distinguished designers. Andrew Cogan, Knoll’s CEO, praises Cosonas for consistently setting the pace in the industry, highlighting the limitless opportunities for groundbreaking designs through new technologies, innovative weaves, architectural applications, and collaborations with guest designers. The competitive nature of the industry demands five to six new collections annually, and Cosonas meticulously oversees the 12- to 14-month development process. This includes extensive research, selecting appropriate mills, and multiple rounds of prototyping. Her challenge lies in creating designs that are current, slightly ahead of trends, yet timeless, ensuring they do not quickly become outdated. Fashion serves as Cosonas’s primary source of inspiration, evident from her office's pinup board adorned with photos, clippings, and swatches. She expertly translates motifs, textures, and details from high fashion, such as Chanel and Alexander McQueen, into textiles suitable for modern interiors. Matilda McQuaid of the Cooper Hewitt notes Cosonas's masterful ability to transform inspirations into original contract textiles, exemplified by her design "Topography," which, though inspired by Missoni, evolved into a unique interpretation resembling geological strata. This talent for hybrid design also extends to her collaborations with other designers, such as Irma Boom and David Adjaye, and high-end fashion designers like Proenza Schouler and Maria Cornejo, ensuring their visions are translated effectively into fabric. Cosonas's personal history also influences her work. For the 2016 Odyssey collection, she drew inspiration from her Greek heritage, modernizing embroidery motifs from her grandmother’s 1913 handwoven rug. This collection, featuring fabrics like Andissa, Vatera, and Yeni, alongside solid upholstery fabrics, represented a unique challenge in adapting traditional elements to a contemporary context. Her foresight in anticipating trends was affirmed when similar Old World–meets–modern embroidery themes appeared in fashion collections shortly after her line's development. Cosonas attributes her success to trusting her instincts and relentlessly pursuing the right design. Ultimately, the greatest reward for her is seeing Knoll's textiles integrated into real-world spaces, a testament to the chosen quality and design in a saturated market. #TextileDesign #KnollTextiles #DorothyCosonas #InteriorDesign #FashionInfluence #DesignInnovation #ModernDesign #Craftsmanship #DesignCollaboration

The article discusses the new Bedford Park collection from Morris & Co., a textile brand named after the influential British textile artist William Morris. The collection, spearheaded by lead designer Jessica Clayworth, aims to honor Morris's iconic Arts & Crafts designs while introducing a modern and unexpected twist through bold and supercharged color palettes. Clayworth's vision was to disrupt the market by reimagining classic patterns with punchy hues and dramatic color combinations, drawing inspiration from the psychedelic tones of the 1960s and '70s. The development process involved delving into the company's archives to select both well-known Morris bestsellers and lesser-known works by other significant Arts & Crafts designers. The goal was to bring attention to designs that had previously received less recognition and to highlight the contributions of artists like C.F.A. Voysey, Allan Francis Vigers, and J. H. Dearle, who were also impactful during the Arts & Crafts period. The Bedford Park collection features 15 wallpaper designs and 14 fabrics. Clayworth provides insights into several key patterns within the collection. For instance, the popular 'Pimpernel' pattern, originally characterized by soft, muted colors, has been reinterpreted with brighter, stronger colors such as Shamrock and Watermelon. This reinterpretation caters to customers seeking a more vibrant and audacious aesthetic. Another pattern, 'Spring Thicket,' which was Morris's last wallpaper design, has been updated from its original subtle peachy ground to striking bright blues, incorporating a lilac punch to modernize the colorway and enhance the floral and leaf motifs. The collection also introduces designs by C.F.A. Voysey, including 'The Savaric,' which features his signature bird motif. While Morris's designs are often described as structural, Voysey's style is noted for its naivete. The updated 'Savaric' maintains a gentle color palette, such as Garden Green, to align with Voysey's original vision while introducing his work to a broader audience. Voysey's 'Glade' and 'Laceflower' patterns are also part of the collection. 'Glade' stands out with its structural, stylized botanical design and Art Nouveau influence, offering a departure from some of the more elaborate patterns. 'Laceflower' reintroduces Voysey's characteristic birds, integrated within floral stems for a more dimensional effect compared to 'The Savaric.' Allan Francis Vigers' 'Campanula' design, with its dense field of vibrant flowers, is presented in a Sunburst colorway that closely honors the creator's initial vision, with colors slightly enhanced for impact. The wallpaper print for 'Campanula' also pays homage to the wooden printing blocks used during the Arts & Crafts era, reinforcing the collection's authentic origins. Many patterns in the Bedford Park collection are available in both fabric and wallpaper, allowing for maximalist decorating schemes. The collection is designed to evoke a sense of rebellion and statement-making, aiming to impress and inspire awe in observers. #MorrisAndCo #TextileDesign #ArtsAndCrafts #InteriorDesign #Wallpaper #Fabric #WilliamMorris #BedfordParkCollection #ColorCombinations

The practice of indigo blueprinting, known as Blaudruck in Austria and Germany, and Kékfestés, Modrotlač, and Modrotisk in Hungary, Slovakia, and the Czech Republic respectively, is a rare, centuries-old textile dyeing technique experiencing a resurgence. This tradition, which has significantly influenced the language, dress, and culture of several Central European nations, involves applying a dye-resist paste called Papp to cloth before dyeing it with indigo. Indigo, a powerful natural dye, has been used globally for millennia, with its application in textiles dating back at least 6,000 years. In Central Europe, the tradition evolved from using woad in the Bronze Age to indigo following its import by the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century. Indigo's cold-water dyeing process produced a deeper, more durable color than woad, leading to its widespread adoption for traditional costumes, or _tracht_. Blaudruck workshops, such as Original Blaudruck Koó in Austria's Burgenland state, run by third-generation craftsman Josef Koó and his wife Miriam, and Blaudruckerei Wagner in Upper Austria, which has been in business since 1878, are dedicated to preserving this intricate craft. The process is labor-intensive and takes weeks, beginning with the application of the Papp paste onto fabric using hand-crafted wooden blocks called _Modeln_. These blocks feature fine brass pins hammered into desired patterns, with only a few people in Europe still possessing the expertise to produce them. The exact recipe for Papp is a closely guarded secret, passed down orally, though gum arabic and clay are known ingredients. After patterns are transferred, the fabric air-dries for at least four weeks to allow the paste to set and harden. The dyeing stage involves dipping the fabric, stretched on a frame called a _Stern_, into a vat containing cold water, indigo, and lime. The oxidation process during dyeing causes the fabric to change from yellow to green and finally to the characteristic indigo blue, a phenomenon that has inspired the German idiom "_Du wirst Dein blaues Wunder erleben_" (you will experience your blue miracle), signifying a surprising event. The dyed linen is then washed in hot water to remove the resist paste, revealing a striking dye-free pattern. Blaudruck textiles were highly prized for their durability, with patterns that never rubbed off. They were also practical, as seen in reversible aprons (_Doppeldrucke_) that served different purposes, reducing laundry needs and making them a popular choice for dirndl dresses. The craft's influence extends to the German language, with phrases like "_Blaumachen_" (to make blue) and "_blauer Montag_" (blue Monday) originating from the artisans' practice of having idle time on Mondays during the multi-stage dyeing process, which they sometimes spent at pubs. "_Jemanden in die Mangel nehmen_" (take someone through the mangle), meaning to pressure someone, refers to the final step of smoothing the dried cloth with a 12-ton granite mangle. Despite its near extinction by the 1980s due to mass-produced alternatives, Blaudruck was added to Unesco's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2018. This recognition, along with the efforts of a small community of artisans, has led to a revival. Blaudruck products, once a cheap fabric for common people, are now considered a luxury, adorning home decor items like walls, pillowcases, and tablecloths in inns and hotels, and featured in specialized stores and museums. The annual International Dyers' Market in Gutau and experimental workshops further promote and preserve this unique craft, ensuring its living tradition continues to thrive. #Blaudruck #IndigoDyeing #TextileCraft #CentralEuropeanCulture #TraditionalArtistry #CulturalHeritage #HandicraftRevival #AustrianTradition #TextileDesign

The article discusses the launch of Weft, an innovative online platform aiming to revolutionize the woven fabrics industry. Developed by Brooks Hagan, an associate professor of textiles at RISD, and Steve Marschner, a computer science professor at Cornell, Weft provides direct access to manufacturing for custom woven fabric orders, starting from as low as three yards. This platform distinguishes itself from surface-printed fabric providers by focusing on true woven designs, offering a unique service in the market. The project received research support from the National Science Foundation and a Small Business Innovation Research grant, highlighting its technological and entrepreneurial significance. Weft empowers users to personalize their fabric designs by allowing them to select colors, weave structures, and quality parameters, as well as define repeat sizes. This level of customization is particularly beneficial for independent designers working on smaller-scale projects, enabling them to create unique textiles without the high minimum order quantities typically associated with custom manufacturing. Users of the Weft platform have the flexibility to upload their own designs or photographs, integrating personal artistic vision into their fabric creations. Alternatively, they can customize existing designs available on the site. Beyond custom design, Weft also features a curated selection of limited-edition textile designs created by various artists. The article names Stephanie Pender, Kevin Zucker, Julia Dault, John Caserta, and Julian Kreimer as some of the collaborating artists, emphasizing the platform's commitment to artistic diversity. Hagan explains that the selection of artists from diverse fields was a deliberate choice to demonstrate the software's accessibility and utility to a wide range of creative individuals, regardless of their background. This approach aims to democratize access to custom fabric production, making it available to more designers and artists. In addition to custom orders, Weft operates an online shop offering ready-made woven jacquard fabrics. These fabrics are manufactured in the U.S. and include open-source options, further promoting customization. The versatility of these fabrics makes them suitable for various applications, including upholstery, drapery, and apparel, catering to a broad spectrum of interior design and fashion needs. Weft ensures efficiency by fulfilling custom fabric orders through its network of partner mills, boasting a quick turnaround time of as little as three weeks. This rapid production cycle is a significant advantage for designers and businesses seeking timely delivery of specialized materials. #WovenFabrics #CustomDesign #TextileIndustry #RISDInnovation #DigitalLoom #ManufacturingAccess #IndependentDesigners #ArtisticCollaboration