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Dorothy Cosonas Carries KnollTextiles’ Storied Mantle
Dorothy Cosonas, creative director at KnollTextiles, is a significant figure in contemporary textile design, recognized for her ability to blend historical tradition with forward-thinking aesthetics. With seven of her designs, including four of her own creations, inducted into the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum's permanent collection, Cosonas upholds Knoll's legacy of modern textiles for contemporary interiors. Her approach deviates from the rigid Modernist textiles historically associated with Knoll, incorporating deep colors, patterns, and ornaments. This nuanced aesthetic is a result of her extensive experience and unique design philosophy.
Cosonas's career began after graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology, where she honed her skills in fine arts and textile design. Mentored by Sina Pearson at Unika Vaev, she developed a keen understanding of the textile industry and a talent for modern design. She rose to Vice President of Design at Unika Vaev before joining KnollTextiles in 2005, taking the helm of the textile division established by design icon Florence Knoll Bassett. Her tenure at KnollTextiles is marked by a deep respect for the brand's heritage, as she currently delves into the company's archives in preparation for its 70th anniversary. She emphasizes the importance of maintaining Knoll's reputation for aesthetic, principle, and refinement, viewing her role as a continuation of a lineage of distinguished designers.
Andrew Cogan, Knoll’s CEO, praises Cosonas for consistently setting the pace in the industry, highlighting the limitless opportunities for groundbreaking designs through new technologies, innovative weaves, architectural applications, and collaborations with guest designers. The competitive nature of the industry demands five to six new collections annually, and Cosonas meticulously oversees the 12- to 14-month development process. This includes extensive research, selecting appropriate mills, and multiple rounds of prototyping. Her challenge lies in creating designs that are current, slightly ahead of trends, yet timeless, ensuring they do not quickly become outdated.
Fashion serves as Cosonas’s primary source of inspiration, evident from her office's pinup board adorned with photos, clippings, and swatches. She expertly translates motifs, textures, and details from high fashion, such as Chanel and Alexander McQueen, into textiles suitable for modern interiors. Matilda McQuaid of the Cooper Hewitt notes Cosonas's masterful ability to transform inspirations into original contract textiles, exemplified by her design "Topography," which, though inspired by Missoni, evolved into a unique interpretation resembling geological strata. This talent for hybrid design also extends to her collaborations with other designers, such as Irma Boom and David Adjaye, and high-end fashion designers like Proenza Schouler and Maria Cornejo, ensuring their visions are translated effectively into fabric.
Cosonas's personal history also influences her work. For the 2016 Odyssey collection, she drew inspiration from her Greek heritage, modernizing embroidery motifs from her grandmother’s 1913 handwoven rug. This collection, featuring fabrics like Andissa, Vatera, and Yeni, alongside solid upholstery fabrics, represented a unique challenge in adapting traditional elements to a contemporary context. Her foresight in anticipating trends was affirmed when similar Old World–meets–modern embroidery themes appeared in fashion collections shortly after her line's development. Cosonas attributes her success to trusting her instincts and relentlessly pursuing the right design. Ultimately, the greatest reward for her is seeing Knoll's textiles integrated into real-world spaces, a testament to the chosen quality and design in a saturated market.
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