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Textile designer: Margo Selby
Margo Selby, a celebrated designer-weaver, has been at the forefront of innovative textile design for over a decade, distinguishing her work through the creation of colourful, three-dimensional fabrics that form the core of her vibrant cushions, throws, rugs, and various home accessories. Her signature style, characterized by strong graphics and intricate patterns, originates from her Kent studio, where she utilizes a 24-shaft dobby loom to develop her unique hand-woven textiles before they are put into production by specialized mills.
Selby's artistic journey is deeply rooted in her family's tradition of textile craftsmanship, with her grandmother, Edith Selby, having taught her crocheting and cross-stitching. This early exposure to textile arts naturally led her to pursue a focus on textiles during her foundation studies at Chelsea College of Arts, where she also explored graphic design, sculpture, and three-dimensional design. Her formal education continued with an MA in woven textiles from the Royal College of Art, followed by a fellowship at The Ann Sutton Foundation. During her fellowship, Selby engaged in projects that included developing products for Shetland wool and designing dobby fabrics for the interiors fabric industry in Yorkshire, establishing her initial connections with industrial mills.
It was through these experiences that Selby began to bridge her hand-woven concepts with industrial manufacturing processes, leading to the development of her brand's hallmark silk and Lycra fabrics. The inspiration for her innovative three-dimensional fabric concept stemmed from her fascination with surface and texture, particularly the desire to emulate the tactile quality of bubble wrap packaging using silk. This pursuit involved extensive research into different fibers that would shrink when exposed to heat, which she then wove in combination with silk to achieve the desired three-dimensional surfaces.
Selby's design philosophy is intrinsically linked to the art of weaving, which serves as the primary source of inspiration for all her creations. Beyond her personal handloom work, she actively explores global trends in woven textiles, drawing stimulation from highly decorative designs rich in pattern and color. Recent collections reflect an appreciation for indigenous and tribal fabrics, including techniques such as Japanese dyeing and African prints. The design process for her fabrics begins with the careful planning of the warp, which forms the structural backbone of the fabric on the loom, allowing for experimentation with different structures and weft yarns until a satisfactory product is achieved. This methodical and contemplative approach allows the fabric to evolve one row at a time, providing ample opportunity for design refinement.
Once a fabric design is perfected through numerous developmental warps, Selby explores its potential for industrial production, collaborating with mills. For her flooring collection, her woven patterns were adapted into carpet constructions, manufactured in the UK. Operating from an open-plan studio in Whitstable, Selby immerses herself in a creative environment filled with materials, yarns, and inspiring imagery. Her daily routine involves addressing emails and collaborating with her team before dedicating the majority of her day to weaving at her loom. Her collaborations extend to companies like Alternative Flooring, for which she developed wool carpet and runner designs inspired by her deflected double-weave hand-woven cloths.
Selby sources yarns globally, with Japan and the US being notable for their vibrant hand-weaving communities, and emphasizes selecting the most skilled weavers for specific material types. The business, which began in her bedroom, has expanded significantly to a bustling textile studio employing eight full-time staff and additional piece workers in Whitstable, focusing on bespoke textiles for a diverse range of applications. The handloom and the traditional craft of weaving remain central to all her products. The current re-emergence of carpet and color in fashion presents an exciting opportunity for her designs, particularly the translation of soft silk and wool fabric designs into large-scale, recolored flooring options. Selby's future plans include developing interiors fabrics for sale by the meter and expanding her accessories range to include bedlinen and towels.
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