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Sander Lak brings his intuitive colour approach to new Maharam collaboration
Maharam has partnered with fashion designer Sander Lak to launch a new collection of woollen upholstery textiles. This collaboration builds on Lak's previous work, particularly his final A/W20 collection for his former label, Sies Marjan, which closed due to the pandemic. During that period, Lak explored sustainable practices, including a collaboration with Cornell University on eco-printing techniques and transforming sustainable wool upholstery from textile artist Claudy Jongstra into fashion pieces.
The initial connection between Lak and Maharam was facilitated through Jongstra's Drenthe Heath fabric, an exclusive Maharam textile made from indigenous sheep in the Netherlands. Lak utilized this fabric, custom-dyed with natural materials like walnut husks and indigo, for a Sies Marjan collection and a limited-edition capsule line for the Guggenheim store.
The current collaboration with Maharam, part of their wool initiative launched in February 2021, focuses on three new wool fabrics. This initiative aims to address the growing interest in renewable natural fabrics for furniture upholstery while re-evaluating classic textiles. The collection includes materials made from post-consumer recycled wool and wool processed entirely at a single location to minimize environmental impact.
Lak designed two woven felts, Gemma, which offers a solid and saturated finish, and Gemma Multi, an intricate and reversible mélange. The third fabric, Terra, is a chunky basket-weave wool that draws inspiration from his fashion background with its cable knit-like texture. These textiles are the result of extensive color experimentation, showcasing the inherent depth and nuances of wool. The combined palette across these fabrics features 150 colors, offering a fresh perspective on upholstery options.
Lak's creative process for color selection is intuitive and imagery-based rather than relying on traditional color systems. He collects a vast database of random images and selects colors that resonate with him. He then creates mood boards with different color samples and observes them under various lighting conditions—afternoon, morning, and artificial light—to find the perfect shade. This method reflects his deep engagement with color and texture.
The color palette for these wool textiles draws inspiration from a diverse range of sources, including natural elements like plants and sky colors, as well as mundane objects like cheese and crackers, milkshakes, and smoothies. He also incorporates bold color combinations found in digital icons and corporate branding from American companies such as McDonald’s, Dunkin’ Donuts, and Baskin-Robbins. Lak aimed to use these often aggressive or unnatural corporate colors and integrate them into natural fibers, creating a deliberate clash that mirrors contemporary life's opposing emotions.
Mary Murphy, Maharam’s senior vice president of design, highlights Lak’s strong instinct for color, noting his preference for unusual and mysterious shades that transform under different light. She emphasizes his ability to combine unexpected elements, particularly in the mélange fabric, which reveals different aspects upon closer inspection. The collaboration allowed Lak creative freedom to express his distinct point of view, which Maharam values for bringing a fresh flavor to their line. The company views this as the beginning of a long-term partnership, with more collaborations anticipated in the future, underscoring their commitment to innovative design.
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