British Textile Week 21: Hot off the loom

Humphries Weaving, a prominent British manufacturer, specializes in custom jacquard fabrics, offering bespoke weaving services tailored to specific project briefs. Their approach allows for customization in color, design, and composition. The company prioritizes design excellence and integrity, leveraging extensive knowledge, a rich archive, and technical expertise to produce fabrics for a diverse clientele. This includes prestigious institutions such as Royal Palaces and Historic Houses. While they predominantly focus on historical furnishings, Humphries Weaving also collaborates with contemporary interior design firms and provides fabrics for ceremonial gowns. A notable example of their work involves the authentic restoration of a listed building in Middelburg, The Netherlands. The client, engaged in researching historical fabric wall coverings, found Humphries Weaving's direct-to-customer approach appealing. They selected an 18th-century "Perquisite" damask from a range of gold and cream samples to create custom fabric, which was then woven in Sudbury, Suffolk. The clients undertook the installation of the fabric walling themselves and expressed satisfaction with the outcome, believing it effectively integrates the historical influences within the room. They credited Humphries Weaving for their assistance in navigating their historical pattern archive, as well as for their expertise, advice, and encouragement throughout the interior design process. Humphries Weaving's commitment to quality and historical accuracy is evident in their projects, reinforcing their position as a key player in the textile industry for both historical and contemporary applications. The company invites interested parties to explore their work further via their website and Instagram. #BritishTextileWeek #HumphriesWeaving #JacquardFabrics #BespokeTextiles #HistoricalFurnishings #InteriorDesign #TextileManufacturing #RestorationProjects #CustomFabrics

This report details observations from the Interwoven fabric show, held from May 7-9 in High Point. The event showcased upcoming trends and designs in fabrics and leathers that are expected to influence the marketplace in the latter half of the year and early next year. Fabric manufacturers and importers presented their latest collections, offering insights into the business and fashion trends poised to appear on upholstery frames and drive retail traffic. Culp introduced new designs featuring a mix of textures, colors, and patterns, aiming to provide unique narratives for retail presentation. Sunbrella also presented a wide array of new offerings, catering to diverse style preferences among consumers with its broad design palette. Richloom's booth attracted visitors like Aamir Thobhani of Innnotex Solutions USA, who explored the new fabric selections. Key industry figures were present, including Bob Meloy of Big House Fabrics, who met with Bob Gorman, vice president of sales and merchandising at PMT Fabrics. R. Sackett Wood, CEO of Moore & Giles, showcased the company's new leather collections. J. Allen Fabric highlighted its Revive performance fabric line, with Miron Yaghoubi, partner and CEO, discussing new additions with Mike Willoughby, senior vice president of sales and marketing. Nice Link unveiled eight new collections, including Waters Edge, totaling 60 patterns and 600 SKUs, demonstrating a wide range of colorways. RM Coco displayed its comprehensive line, encompassing multipurpose solids, prints, wovens, embroideries, silks, performance and outdoor fabrics, sheers, decorative trimmings, and hardware, located in the fifth-floor Pavilion area of Market Square. Nassimi LLC, represented by Executive Vice President Iwan Nassimi, presented new vegan leathers, featuring commercial-grade fabrics designed for both style and durability in residential applications. Z-Wovens showcased a diverse mix of indoor and outdoor fabrics from its core Z-Wovens and Sunbelievable lines, engaging customers with its extensive offerings. Valiant Fabrics also exhibited in the fifth-floor Pavilions of Market Square, where attendees gathered information on their latest fabric introductions. The show provided a platform for participants to observe and understand the evolving landscape of textile design and material innovation within the home furnishings industry. #InterwovenShow #FabricTrends #TextileInnovation #HomeFurnishings #UpholsteryFabrics #LeatherCollections #PerformanceFabrics #RetailTrends #HighPointMarket

The article introduces Bengt Thornefors, the creative director of Sahco, a nearly 200-year-old textile brand, and his innovative approach to integrating fashion and interior design. Thornefors, known for his work in the fashion industry with brands like Acne Studios and Saint Laurent, was appointed to his current role in 2022. His background includes co-founding the bedware brand Magniberg, which, like Sahco, is now under the ownership of Kvadrat. This experience has equipped him with extensive expertise in fashion, which he now applies to the realm of textiles. Thornefors's appointment by Kvadrat's CEO, Anders Byriel, reflects a desire to inject fresh perspectives into Sahco, moving beyond traditional textile manufacturing to embrace broader cultural and artistic influences. Thornefors views interiors as having a special appeal, and his ability to navigate both fashion and interior design was a key factor in his selection. He aims to explore the interplay between historical textile traditions and contemporary design, creating collections that embody the essence of a true textile maison. For Sahco's inaugural press presentation at Kvadrat's New York City headquarters, Thornefors adopted an unconventional approach. He transformed the space into a white-box gallery, showcasing fabrics tailored into garment bags and hung on rolling racks, reminiscent of a fashion show. These textile displays were artfully combined with fine art photographs and furnishings from the esteemed Swedish institution Svenskt Tenn, demonstrating a fusion of art, fashion, and home decor. This presentation strategy was a deliberate effort to blur the boundaries between different creative disciplines, emphasizing the emotional and artistic value of textiles rather than just their functional aspects. The reception to Thornefors's innovative presentation was highly positive, even from discerning figures like Jonathan Olivares, the architect of the presentation space. His new collections for Sahco are characterized by a blend of heritage sensibilities, retaining Sahco's traditional decorative florals, with a contemporary Scandinavian aesthetic. Thornefors highlights examples such as lime-green embroidery on a jet-black background, which illustrates his modern interpretation of classic motifs. This design philosophy underscores his belief that Sahco sells more than just fabric; it sells emotions, aiming to evoke feelings and experiences through its products. The article concludes by noting that this story originally appeared in the September 2023 issue of ELLE DECOR, emphasizing its relevance and timeliness within the design world. #TextileDesign #InteriorDesign #FashionInfluence #BengtThornefors #Sahco #Kvadrat #HomeDecor #ScandinavianDesign #CreativeDirection

The Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft in Ditchling, England, is currently hosting an exhibition titled "Double Weave: Bourne and Allen’s Modernist Textiles," which aims to reintroduce the British textile company Bourne and Allen, and its founders Hilary Bourne and Barbara Allen, into the annals of design history. Active in the mid-1900s, Bourne and Allen produced a range of iconic woven fabrics, yet their contributions have largely faded from public memory. This retrospective seeks to correct that oversight by highlighting their innovative craftsmanship and personal story. Hilary Bourne and Barbara Allen were partners in both life and business, and their company was known for blending modernist aesthetics with traditional craft techniques. They frequently utilized natural materials and plant dyes, sourcing wools from across the United Kingdom. Their products, which included woven scarves, tweeds, and furnishing fabrics, were carried by prestigious department stores and design houses such as Liberty of London, Heal’s, and Fortnum and Mason. Bourne and Allen also played a significant role in major theatrical and film productions of their era. Notably, they designed expansive stage curtains and furnishing fabrics for the Royal Festival Hall in London, built for the 1951 Festival of Britain. Their work extended to Hollywood, where they produced 52,000 yards of custom-woven fabric for the costumes of 452 actors and 25,000 extras in the epic film *Ben-Hur*. The exhibition, which is the culmination of extensive archival research conducted by a team of ten, delves into the duo’s work, their lives, and their four-decade-long relationship. Various sections of the show explore their distinct weaving techniques, the materials they employed, their global inspirations, their personal backgrounds, and key career achievements. The displayed fabrics, encompassing both swatches and longer lengths, illustrate Bourne and Allen’s unique aesthetic, characterized by bright primary colors derived from natural dyes like indigo (blue), madder (red), and weld (yellow), contrasted with the natural hues of undyed sheep’s wool. The use of Lurex alongside dark yarns and varied weaving techniques such as plain weave, double weave, chenille, ikat, and floats of thick hand-spun yarns, created alluring textures. The exhibition contextualizes Bourne and Allen within a vibrant, women-centered community of craftspeople in England that predated World War II. A display titled “Map of intimacies: Women’s networks of love, friendship, and textile practice” visually charts the collaborative and intimate relationships among the women—friends, lovers, companions, business partners, and sisters—who influenced Bourne’s and Allen’s lives and work. To demonstrate the enduring relevance of Bourne and Allen's legacy, the exhibition incorporates commissions from two contemporary artists, Poppy Fuller Abbott and Omeima Mudawi-Rowlings. Abbott, a weaver from Sussex, created a piece inspired by the mid-century designers' techniques using indigo-dyed linen with silk floats, and also wove textile samples that replicate Bourne and Allen's fabrics for visitors to handle. A film in a dedicated viewing room documents Abbott’s weaving process. Mudawi-Rowlings's site-specific installation, "Drawn to the Light (نور)," features long swathes of silk dyed with plant materials and printed with personal symbols, reflecting themes of interconnectedness and personal identity amidst global events. Ultimately, "Double Weave" serves as a meditation on themes of love, loss, home, and land. It underscores how the act of weaving, both literally and metaphorically, involves intertwining traditions across time and place, fostering a continuous dialogue through generations in the form of fabric. #TextileHistory #MidCenturyDesign #ModernistTextiles #BritishDesign #Craftsmanship #QueerHistory #DitchlingMuseum #TextileArt #ExhibitionReview

In an increasingly commoditized market flooded with generic products, establishing a unique brand identity and achieving customer recognition is paramount for designers. Textile designer Beatrice Larkin has successfully cultivated a signature style in her woven textiles, accessories, and interior products, making her designs instantly recognizable through their distinctive blurred edges and broken geometrics. Her creative process begins with hand-drawn sketches, where the initial marks, intricate patterns, and blotches made with pen and ink are deliberately preserved and celebrated in the finished fabric. This artistic approach ensures a consistent aesthetic across all her woven creations. The production of Larkin's textiles involves a collaborative effort with skilled manufacturers in the north of England. She works with a Jacquard mill in Lancashire to produce small runs of her woven designs, which are then washed and finished in the Yorkshire Dales. The process begins in her Margate studio, where she engages in extensive mark-making with inks, envisioning the final product's scale and application. These initial designs are then refined using Photoshop to determine fabric repeats and optimal sizing. Currently, her collection features two primary materials: fine Merino wool, typically used for throws, cushions, and accessories, and recycled cotton, a more robust option suitable for cushions, upholstery, and curtains. The Merino wool, known for its softness, is sourced from spinners in Italy. Similarly, the recycled cotton collection utilizes rejected fabrics from the clothing industry, which are re-spun and repurposed, also originating from Italian spinners. These yarns are then sent to the Lancashire mill for weaving, brushing, and washing before being returned to Larkin. The final products are then sewn either in her studio or by local Margate makers, though fabric is also available for purchase by the meter. This meticulous production chain underscores her commitment to quality and sustainable practices. Beatrice Larkin's entrepreneurial journey recently received significant recognition with the Start Up Award as part of the Women’s Launch Lab Incubator 2024. As one of ten female entrepreneurs selected from hundreds of applicants, she participated in an intensive three-day program. This program provided access to expertise from innovative female entrepreneurs, growth and marketing strategists, and public-speaking coaches. The experience culminated in pitching her business to venture capitalists and angel investors, including notable figures such as Alison Cork MBE, Akshata Murty, and Judy Naake MBE. Larkin emphasized that this experience offered valuable perspective and a significant confidence boost. Her business was founded in 2013, immediately following her Master's degree from the Royal College of Art, where her final collection garnered interest from prominent buyers like Heal’s. After graduating, she sought a British mill capable of producing her designs at scale. In 2015, Daylesford Organic provided funding for her initial fabric run, which was woven in the Cotswolds and Yorkshire. This collection was sold at Daylesford and served as a crucial launchpad for future manufacturing endeavors. By spring 2017, she began selling at Heal’s and unveiled her first collection at Clerkenwell Design Week. Larkin's immersion in the fabrics industry was a natural progression, deeply influenced by her upbringing. Her father owned Gordon Larkin Fine Wallpaper & Fabric in Canterbury, and her mother was also a textile designer, ensuring a household constantly surrounded by fabrics. Childhood memories of accompanying her father to design shows in Chelsea Harbour and exploring fabric showrooms further solidified her connection to the industry. She attributes her entrepreneurial spirit and the ability to forge her own path to observing her parents' lifestyle as business owners. Three years ago, Larkin relocated to Margate, drawn by its vibrant creative community. Since then, she has expanded her client base, with local stockists including Turner Contemporary and Harbour & Tide. Her brand, Beatrice Larkin, has also been embraced by renowned establishments such as Made, Studio Ashby, Conran and Partners, Tate Modern, and Piglet in Bed. Her journey reflects a blend of inherited passion, formal education, strategic partnerships, and a clear vision for her brand's aesthetic and ethical production. #TextileDesign #BeatriceLarkin #MargateDesign #WovenTextiles #InteriorProducts #SustainableMaterials #BritishManufacturing #Entrepreneurship #WomenInBusiness

This article explores a selection of new fabric launches designed to enhance home interior schemes. The right fabric, whether patterned or plain, can significantly influence the aesthetic of a room. The piece highlights eight distinct collections and designers, each bringing a unique approach to textile design. First, Haines, an online platform for salvaged fabrics, has collaborated with Gabby Deeming of Daydress to create a limited-edition collection. This collection features surplus textiles repurposed into fabrics and soft furnishings, characterized by pretty, ditsy floral patterns in fresh colorways, emphasizing sustainability and unique design. Next, London-based textile designer Beki Bright presents a range of hand screen-printed fabrics, cushions, lampshades, and wallpapers. Her designs draw inspiration from the English countryside of Suffolk, utilizing a signature palette of muted blues, pinks, soft peaches, and mustard yellows, reflecting a natural and serene aesthetic. Beata Heuman introduces a 'Jumbo Gingham' print, which pays tribute to traditional 18th-century Swedish checked textiles. This fabric offers a modest yet playful element, aiming to impart a homey feel to any interior without overwhelming the space. Sophia Frances showcases fabrics that blend traditional British textile heritage with contemporary twists. Her collection includes bold zigzags, painterly florals, large-scale stripes, subtle flowers, and delicate geometrical repeats, providing a versatile range for various design preferences. Zoe Glencross expands her style with the 'Aventura Collection,' inspired by her travels to Mallorca, Seville, Lisbon, and Porto. This collection incorporates Moorish mudejar and Portuguese azulejo patterning, with an earthy color palette of warm terracotta, pinky-beige tones, rich ochres, vibrant apple greens, and coastal blues, bringing a worldly and colorful dimension to interiors. Blithfield, known for its color-driven designs, launches the 'Bancroft Collection.' This collection combines historical references with a contemporary feel, featuring striking printed designs in signature colors. It includes new versions of Ikat Check, a printed stripe named Lambert, and two woven designs: the antique-inspired Jasper and the classic Bailey. Henry Prideaux, in collaboration with Christopher Farr, has re-imagined iconic designs from the Christopher Farr archives, including works by Michael Szell, Raoul Dufy, and Kit Kemp. The recolored fabrics are curated within a palette of terracotta and blue, aiming to infuse renewed sophistication and a modern quality into these classic prints. Finally, Susie Watson introduces 'Natasha,' an Uzbek-style fabric hand-printed on rustic linen. Inspired by the founder's travels, this heavyweight material is stonewashed to achieve a subtle, vintage effect. Available in 'Catkin,' 'Dusty Pink,' and 'Smokey Blue,' it is suitable for curtains and blinds, and can be accented with a pom-pom trim. The article also mentions Fermoie’s 'Circus' design, which features a repeating geometric pattern inspired by the movement of acrobats and jugglers. Fermoie emphasizes traditional printing methods on linen and cotton, using only natural pigments and colors. These launches collectively offer a wide array of choices for interior decorators, ranging from sustainable salvaged textiles and countryside-inspired prints to traditional patterns with contemporary twists and culturally rich designs, all aimed at enhancing the aesthetic and feel of a home. #FabricLaunches #InteriorDesign #HomeDecor #TextileDesign #PatternedFabrics #SustainableFabrics #DesignerFabrics #HomeTextiles #DecoratingTrends

The article discusses the launch of Weft, an innovative online platform aiming to revolutionize the woven fabrics industry. Developed by Brooks Hagan, an associate professor of textiles at RISD, and Steve Marschner, a computer science professor at Cornell, Weft provides direct access to manufacturing for custom woven fabric orders, starting from as low as three yards. This platform distinguishes itself from surface-printed fabric providers by focusing on true woven designs, offering a unique service in the market. The project received research support from the National Science Foundation and a Small Business Innovation Research grant, highlighting its technological and entrepreneurial significance. Weft empowers users to personalize their fabric designs by allowing them to select colors, weave structures, and quality parameters, as well as define repeat sizes. This level of customization is particularly beneficial for independent designers working on smaller-scale projects, enabling them to create unique textiles without the high minimum order quantities typically associated with custom manufacturing. Users of the Weft platform have the flexibility to upload their own designs or photographs, integrating personal artistic vision into their fabric creations. Alternatively, they can customize existing designs available on the site. Beyond custom design, Weft also features a curated selection of limited-edition textile designs created by various artists. The article names Stephanie Pender, Kevin Zucker, Julia Dault, John Caserta, and Julian Kreimer as some of the collaborating artists, emphasizing the platform's commitment to artistic diversity. Hagan explains that the selection of artists from diverse fields was a deliberate choice to demonstrate the software's accessibility and utility to a wide range of creative individuals, regardless of their background. This approach aims to democratize access to custom fabric production, making it available to more designers and artists. In addition to custom orders, Weft operates an online shop offering ready-made woven jacquard fabrics. These fabrics are manufactured in the U.S. and include open-source options, further promoting customization. The versatility of these fabrics makes them suitable for various applications, including upholstery, drapery, and apparel, catering to a broad spectrum of interior design and fashion needs. Weft ensures efficiency by fulfilling custom fabric orders through its network of partner mills, boasting a quick turnaround time of as little as three weeks. This rapid production cycle is a significant advantage for designers and businesses seeking timely delivery of specialized materials. #WovenFabrics #CustomDesign #TextileIndustry #RISDInnovation #DigitalLoom #ManufacturingAccess #IndependentDesigners #ArtisticCollaboration

Bouclé, a textured fabric characterized by looped or curled fibers, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity across various design sectors. The material's origins trace back to the late 1940s when Eero Saarinen designed the Womb Chair, upholstered in Knoll's Classic Bouclé, at the request of Florence Knoll. Historically, bouclé referred to either the yarn, crafted from a series of looped fibers, or the resulting fabric. While wool is the most common fiber used in this technique, cotton, linen, and silk also lend themselves to creating bouclé’s distinctive textured feel. Following its mid-century debut, bouclé gained traction in fashion couture, with Chanel notably incorporating it, and became a staple in furniture design. The appeal of bouclé lies in its versatile properties. It is substantial enough to provide acoustic absorption, making it suitable for applications like window treatments, yet sufficiently soft for use in pillows. Designer Tina Ramchandani attributes the material's current popularity to a broader societal need for comfort and security. In an era marked by environmental concerns and political turbulence, individuals seek to create safe and cozy home environments that promote well-being. This sentiment aligns with bouclé’s inherent comfort and inviting texture. Bouclé particularly complements curvilinear furniture forms, as evidenced by its application in iconic midcentury designs by Saarinen and Vladimir Kagan, and more contemporary pieces such as Pierre Yovanovitch’s Papa and Baby Bear Armchairs. At Salone del Mobile, Sé showcased an arced Ini Archibong-designed Oshun sofa upholstered in an eggshell-hued bouclé from Perennials, further illustrating this synergy. As consumer demand increasingly favors fabrics that offer both rich texture and breathability, textile manufacturers are expanding their bouclé collections. Several textile houses are responding to this trend by introducing new bouclé offerings. De Le Cuona's Flint bouclé collection, for instance, features a blend of wool and linen, suitable for both drapery and upholstery, and is available in six colorways. Sella Concepts launched the Ladies Pond collection, its first commercially available furniture, featuring hand-turned tulipwood pieces finished with stone composite and coordinating bouclé upholstered cushions. Frank Ponterio’s inaugural collection for Clarence House includes bouclé fabrics in four distinct colorways, blending linen, cotton, and alpaca. Perennials x Sé Collections highlight performance bouclé on modern organic sofa forms, as seen at Milan’s Rosana Orlandi. Stella TriBeCa offers bouclé throws woven from Stansborough wool and New Zealand mohair, providing warmth and softness. Lastly, Christophe Delcourt’s EKO Meridienne chair, upholstered in bouclé, draws inspiration from Le Corbusier’s Ronchamp chapel, incorporating sweeping planes and geometric forms. These diverse offerings demonstrate the material's adaptability and its continued relevance in contemporary design. #BoucleFabric #TextileTrends #InteriorDesign #FurnitureUpholstery #MidcenturyDesign #HomeComfort #FabricInnovation #ModernInteriors

Textile manufacturing holds a significant place in Britain's history and continues to thrive today, thanks to a diverse array of homegrown fabric and textile designers. These designers are instrumental in preserving the crafts, skills, traditions, and quality that define the British textiles industry. For individuals looking to update their homes, whether through reupholstering furniture, refreshing window treatments, or revitalizing sofa cushions, engaging with these British designers offers an opportunity to support local craftsmanship and businesses, aligning with contemporary trends in sustainability and upcycling. Leading British textile designers draw inspiration from various sources, ranging from historical movements like the British Arts & Crafts to global cultures and natural environments. Ellen Merchant, for instance, blends William Morris's aesthetic with her unique perspective, creating hand-drawn botanical forms using traditional craft skills. Chelsea Gem, founded in Chelsea, produces abstract fabrics and wallpapers inspired by local life, all hand-drawn, cut, and printed using natural, sustainable, and locally sourced materials. Chelsea Textiles, established by Monica Perlhagen, specializes in recreating antique embroidery and incorporating authentic materials for traditional interiors, with collections that also feature Scandinavian influences and collaborations with renowned designers and hotels. Christopher Farr Cloth is recognized for its commitment to high-quality materials and traditional craftsmanship, offering playful and colorful designs influenced by diverse cultures and 20th-century artists. Clovelly Cloth draws from Victorian botanicals and the Arts and Crafts era, producing hand screen-printed designs in gentle mineral colorways that also extend to wallpapers. Cole & Son, founded in 1873, is celebrated for its bold and imaginative wallpapers and fabrics, characterized by vibrant patterns, colors, and global influences. Colefax & Fowler, a leading name in British textile manufacturing since the 1930s, balances traditional English roots with evolving designs, offering a wide range of fabrics and wallpapers beloved by interior designers. Designers Guild, founded by Tricia Guild in the 1970s, is a favorite for its versatile and stylish designs, such as the Minakari collection, which reinterprets florals with glamorous jacquards and printed velvets. Fermoie, launched by Farrow & Ball founders, uses natural dyes for its collections, emphasizing sustainability with natural raw materials and eco-friendly packaging. George Smith, a renowned furniture maker, also offers responsibly sourced, sustainable, and British-made upholstery fabrics with classic, understated designs. GP & J Baker, a Royal Warrant holder since 1882, boasts an extensive archive of designs from leading arts and crafts designers, skillfully adapted for modern tastes. House of Hackney, created by Frieda Gormley and Javvy M Royle, is known for its quirky, colorful, and distinctive patterns, often collaborating with other creatives. Jessica Osborne's fabrics are inspired by wild and natural environments, featuring vibrant, repetitive patterns printed on 100 percent linen. Madeaux produces charming fabrics and wallcoverings inspired by vintage tapestries and British wildlife. Nina Campbell's textiles are easily identifiable by their playful, feminine patterns and timeless appeal, ranging from traditional florals to bold contemporary designs. Osborne & Little, a brand since the 1960s, is celebrated for its imaginative approach, quality, and creative innovation, offering a mix of contemporary and classic designs. Parker & Jules, founded by Nancy Parker and Juliet O’Carroll, creates fabrics inspired by traditional British homes and diverse global influences, using pattern and maximalism to re-energize interiors. Penny Morrison's distinctive, characterful patterns are a staple in stylish homes, with collaborations that expand her extensive portfolio of bright colorways. Rapture & Wright specializes in hand-printed designs, utilizing traditional craft methods and operating a sustainable printworks. Rose Uniacke offers an organic and recycled fabric range, inspired by William Morris and 1920s patterns, with a focus on environmental principles. Sanderson, established in 1860, is known for its elegant hand-drawn designs, bold floral patterns, and highly pigmented colors, drawing inspiration from the English countryside and global influences. Soane Britain offers a range of furniture, upholstery, lighting, and distinctive fabrics and wallpapers, often inspired by antique textiles and made in British mills using traditional methods like block and screen printing, with custom service options available. #BritishTextileDesigners #InteriorDesign #FabricDesign #HomeDecor #SustainableTextiles #Craftsmanship #Upholstery #Wallcoverings

The article details Kirkby Design's 'Underground Vol II' collection, a collaboration with Transport for London (TfL), which was launched at the London Design Festival. The collection features contemporary patterned woollen textiles, specifically upholstery velvets, inspired by historical moquettes from TfL's seating fabric archives dating back to the 1930s. Creative director Jordan Mould explains that the idea for the first 'Underground' collection originated when he observed the unique fabric designs on a tube carriage during an empty late-night journey, sparking the idea for a partnership with TfL. The 'Underground Vol II' collection reinterprets these vintage designs by adjusting their scale, texture, and color palettes to create a more sophisticated and luxurious aesthetic suitable for modern interiors. While the essence of the original designs is maintained, the updated color combinations are trend-driven. Each design in the collection is named after the London Underground line it was originally featured on, which helps customers connect with the historical aspect of the textiles, often evoking fond memories of their travels around London. Mould highlights 'Northern,' a design from 1965 by Marianne Straub, in the 'Biscuit' colorway, as one of his personal favorites from the new collection, appreciating its graphic statement. The article suggests that there is a vast amount of material within TfL's archives, hinting at the possibility of future collaborations. The collection is available from £89 per meter through Kirkby Design and was featured in the October issue of ELLE Decoration. This initiative represents a fusion of historical public transport design with contemporary interior textile trends, transforming functional patterns into high-end decorative elements. #KirkbyDesign #LondonDesignFestival #TextileDesign #UpholsteryVelvets #TransportForLondon #InteriorTextiles #DesignCollaboration #MarianneStraub #HomeDecor

The Queen West area of Toronto, specifically the Fashion District stretching from Queen past King, between Bathurst and Spadina, continues to be a significant hub for fabric and bead stores, despite a noticeable decline in their numbers over the years. This district, historically a go-to for textiles and crafting supplies, now hosts just over ten such shops, catering to both seasoned sewers and students from institutions like George Brown and Ryerson. The industry faces challenges, particularly from the rise of online shopping, which makes the tactile experience of selecting fabrics and beads less common. Owners lament that while online platforms offer convenience, they cannot replicate the essential 'touch-and-feel' aspect crucial for these materials. This shift has led to a decrease in new businesses entering the textile retail sector, with many existing stores having operated for decades. Linda Wen, owner of Leo's Textiles, a store with roots dating back to 1955, highlights the impact of online competition and a dwindling interest in sewing among younger generations. Her mother, Susie Wong, expanded Leo's Textiles significantly after purchasing it in 1989, but the sentiment remains that current generations might be the last to sustain this type of business. Similarly, Emily Lau of Bling Bling, a family-owned bead shop specializing in freshwater pearls and non-plastic beads for over 15 years, notes that platforms like Etsy have contributed to a downturn in the bead industry. Some stores, like Arton Beads, have even downsized, though they express confidence in their continued presence. The article provides a comprehensive list of the remaining fabric and bead stores on Queen West. King Textiles, a large second-floor shop, has been supplying fabrics for over 20 years. Neveren's Sewing Supplies, operating for over 45 years, offers a range of fabric, thread, and zipper deals. Leo's Textiles, a popular spot since 1955, is known for its extensive fabric selection, including bridal-worthy materials. EuroFab, established in 1998, focuses on drapery, blinds, and upholstery fabrics for home decor. Downtown Fabrics showcases a wide selection of silks and bamboo jerseys, many imported from Europe. Chu Shing Textiles provides neatly stacked materials ranging from wedding fabrics to various colored jerseys. Queen Textiles, though a cramped space, has been a reliable source for two decades. For bead enthusiasts, Arton Beads remains a popular destination, frequently offering deals on Japanese cube beads and semi-precious stones. Bling Bling specializes in freshwater pearls and gemstones. Fabric By Designers, recently under new ownership, features sales on furs, linens, and silks, along with notions and buttons. Mokuba, a Japanese brand that arrived in Canada in 1987, is known for its ribbons and trims. The Wool House caters to those seeking high-quality natural textiles like cashmere, alpaca, and mohair. The Beadery offers a selection of quality wood bead strands and handmade jewelry, notable also for its pleasant ambiance. Hi Beads boasts a generous selection of beads, including discounted gemstones, Pandora, and Swarovski beads in its backroom. Affordable Textiles Inc. is recognizable by its oil drums filled with fabric rolls, spread across two stores. World Sew Centre, operating since 1979, sells sewing machines from brands like Brother and Singer, along with notions and fabrics. This guide serves as a valuable resource for anyone looking to source materials for fashion or home-related projects in Toronto's Queen West district. #QueenWest #FabricStores #BeadStores #TorontoFashionDistrict #TextileRetail #CraftingSupplies #LocalBusiness #FashionAndStyle

Toronto offers a diverse range of fabric stores catering to various sewing needs, from quilting cottons to high-end designer textiles and upholstery materials. These establishments provide a wide selection of fabrics, notions, and sometimes even classes, making them valuable resources for hobbyists, fashion students, and professionals alike. The Workroom, located in Parkdale, is highly regarded by sewing enthusiasts for its unique selection of adorable quilting cottons, available by the metre. It is celebrated for its curated collection that distinguishes it from other fabric retailers in the city. King Textiles, a long-standing fixture at Spadina and Queen for over 25 years, presents a vast array of bolts. This store is notable for its substantial inventory and its offering of samples for those interested in wholesale purchases. Fabricland, a well-known home decor chain, has four locations across Toronto, providing a convenient option for a broad range of sewing necessities. They offer a selection of fabrics at competitive prices, making it a go-to for many crafters. Queen Textiles, situated in Queen West, is characterized by its extensive variety of colourful fabrics suitable for numerous occasions. Despite its smaller size, the store's comprehensive selection is a significant draw for customers. Downtown Fabrics, also on Queen West, provides a more organized and relaxed shopping experience. The owner is known for being helpful and engaging, contributing to a pleasant atmosphere for textile browsing. Affordable Textiles, another prominent Queen West establishment, features an almost endless collection of fabric bolts, including unique finds in barrels at the front of the store. Its vast inventory makes it a popular destination, particularly among fashion students who can spend hours exploring its offerings. macFAB Fabrics specializes in high-quality textiles from esteemed suppliers such as Christian Lacroix and Nina Campbell. This veteran fabric purveyor, now located in Leaside, caters to customers seeking premium materials for their projects. Fabric Town, with locations in Danforth East and Markham Road, is a long-established Toronto brand known for its affordable materials. The store offers a membership program for a one-time fee, providing a discount on future purchases. Len's Mill Store on Orfus Road operates as a large warehouse, stocking a wide variety of fabrics, yarns, and upholstery materials. It serves a diverse clientele, from those making clothes to individuals seeking outdoor-compatible fabrics. #TorontoFabricStores #TextileShopping #SewingSupplies #FabricRetailers #HomeDecor #FashionDesign #Crafting #Quilting #Upholstery

Susan “Rabbit” Goody, founder of Thistle Hill Weavers in Cherry Valley, New York, has dedicated her life to the meticulous reproduction of historic textiles. Her workshop, established in 1989, specializes in creating fabrics that faithfully replicate the weave, texture, weight, and color of historical materials for a diverse clientele including filmmakers, television producers, historic houses, and high-end furniture and clothing companies. Goody’s unique skill set makes her an indispensable resource for costume designers seeking unparalleled historical accuracy in their productions. Goody's journey into textiles began in her teenage years, driven by a fascination with the weaving process. After earning a degree in cultural anthropology and ethnomusicology from Bennington College in 1972, she moved to rural New York, where she initially supported herself through farm work. In 1975, she purchased a 150-acre farmstead and, with her first husband, built a home inspired by a 1690 Connecticut house. She developed a successful hand-weaving business, selling cashmere-and-silk scarves to stores like Saks Fifth Avenue. Her expertise grew during her tenure as head of the domestic arts program and curator of textiles at the Farmers’ Museum in Cooperstown, where she became a recognized authority on early American textiles. Goody also founded the Textile History Forum, an annual conference that convenes researchers, museum professionals, and scholars. In 1989, she moved her operation into an old feed mill, later expanding to a purpose-built facility next to her home. Today, Thistle Hill Weavers employs seven individuals trained by Goody to operate nine mechanized shuttle looms, some dating back to the 1890s, alongside archaic equipment like warp winders and quillers. Goody’s commitment to authenticity is evident in her approach to acquiring and maintaining machinery. She has salvaged looms from closing textile mills across several states, often from the legendary industrial loom-maker Crompton & Knowles, and has taught herself to repair and operate them. This dedication ensures that her workshop can produce textiles with historical integrity. Her fabrics have graced numerous film and television productions, including "The Gilded Age," _Cinderella Man_, _Master and Commander_, _No Country for Old Men_, _Noah_, "John Adams," and "Turn: Washington’s Spies." She even hand-wove a replica of a fragment of the original Star-Spangled Banner for a Smithsonian event. When a costume designer approaches Thistle Hill, Goody employs a blend of historical knowledge and modern technology. She uses a computer-attached loom to experiment with weave patterns and selects threads to match specific weight, texture, and color requirements. Her process involves creating small woven samples, which are then expedited to clients for review. This meticulous attention to detail is crucial, as even subtle changes in yarn weight or color can significantly alter a fabric’s character, impacting an actor's movement and the overall authenticity of a period piece. For instance, a fabric she produced for Tom Hanks’ overcoat in _Road to Perdition_ had to be re-woven with lighter materials for rain scenes due to its original, historically accurate weight making it too heavy when wet. Goody’s reputation as a historian and her practical skills make her an invaluable collaborator. Costume designers like Joanna Johnston, who worked with Goody on Steven Spielberg’s _Lincoln_, praise her weaving abilities and extensive historical knowledge. Goody recreated Abraham Lincoln’s shawl for Daniel Day-Lewis based on a detailed study of the original held by the Smithsonian. Beyond film, her work extends to historic preservation, such as creating delicate white dimity curtains for Emily Dickinson’s bedroom and a brightly striped Venetian carpet. She also produces custom fabrics for diverse applications, including a 'Mandalorian' cloak, demonstrating the versatility of her workshop. At 72, Goody remains actively involved in her mill and farm, displaying no plans for retirement, driven by her passion and the unique, irreplaceable skills she possesses in bringing the past tangibly to life through textiles. #TextileHistory #HistoricTextiles #CostumeDesign #FilmProduction #ThistleHillWeavers #RabbitGoody #LoomWeaving #TextileConservation #CulturalHeritage

The article explores the latest textile and wallpaper trends for 2025 as previewed during Paris's Déco Off, Déco Home, and Maison&Objet; in The City events. These industry showcases highlight innovative approaches to home interiors, emphasizing both aesthetic appeal and advanced manufacturing techniques. The future of interior design, as presented by leading brands, appears focused on elegance, incorporating iridescent weaves, imaginative color palettes, and enduring earthy tones. Rubelli's new "Teorema" collection, designed by Formafantasma, features patterns that blend traditional craftsmanship with contemporary vision. The collection introduces wool and chenille fabrics with abstract and geometric motifs, notably the "Zig Zag" line, which reimagines embroidery techniques using shiny viscose thread for a modern, textured effect, pushing boundaries in decorative textiles for home transformation. Dedar's collections introduce material variations and new production methods within its "Contemporary Archives" family. The brand's soft figurativism enriches textiles with painterly depictions of natural elements like mountains, waterfalls, and starry skies. A highlight is the "Thank you for sending me an angel" line, crafted from kid mohair, which offers a luxurious, curly velvet texture that evokes the feel of fur without being actual fur, providing an elegant and pleasant tactile experience. Métaphores, an Hermès textile chain brand, presents "L'Echappée" by art director Emilie Paralitici. This collection draws inspiration from travel and exploration, translating distant memories into new fabrics. It celebrates iconic English beauty with exotic and oriental influences, incorporating tweed and tartan in vibrant colors suitable for contemporary spaces. The collection also includes textured fabrics with abstract patterns reminiscent of nautical cords, designed for both indoor and outdoor applications. Fischbacher 1819 collaborates with Marcel Wanders for the "Ancient Memories" collection, presented in Paris's Rive Droite. This line introduces an "archeology of time-traveling fabrics" that bring lightness to modern spaces. Developed with artist Caterina Roppo, the collection features decorative elements and canvases that convey poetic and emotional narratives. A notable inclusion is the "Nature's Dialogue" line, showcasing cotton lace embroidery that merges traditional craftsmanship with new technologies. Fortuny's "Armonia" collection, created in collaboration with designer Chahan Minassian, was unveiled in an art gallery during Déco Off. This collection merges Fortuny's historical legacy with Minassian's distinctive design approach, aiming for a timeless yet forward-looking aesthetic. The resulting patterns reflect on fabric's versatility in living spaces, integrating the traditional Venetian aesthetic with contemporary artistic vision. Lelièvre's "Métamorphose" collection emphasizes nature as an inexhaustible source of inspiration. The collection is characterized by designs that embody the rhythm of the seasons through visual and tactile patterns, delicate transitions, and blurred contours. The "Ammonite" line, for instance, features a fossil-inspired motif that connects to the origins of natural forms, refreshing the brand's aesthetic. Élitis introduces the "Brera" collection, which pays homage to the Milanese aesthetic of neoclassical style found in historic palaces and villas, particularly those in the Porta Venezia district. The collection reintroduces printed velvets and fabrics reminiscent of sophisticated clubs, creating a theatrical and elegant atmosphere in modern homes. This collection merges themes of nature, travel, and contemporary living through its upholstery, textiles, and accessories. Maison Pierre Frey's "Paralleles" collection explores the interplay of stripes, solid colors, and varying fabric thicknesses. The collection offers a vibrant range of palettes for contemporary homes, blending elegant, classic, and ethnic influences. The brand's installation, "Desert," presented in Paris, showcases wallpapers and fabrics that reinterpret 18th-century interiors with a modern twist, rejecting static interiors for dynamic, life-welcoming environments. Little Greene's "Storybook Papers" collection delves into childhood nostalgia, featuring designs inspired by archival materials and 20th-century aesthetics. Curated by the National Trust, the collection transforms wooden toy designs into two-dimensional motifs for wallpapers. Each wallcovering is accompanied by suggested paint selections, making them suitable for children's bedrooms, nurseries, bathrooms, dining rooms, and entryways, refreshing and renewing home spaces. CMO's new collections prioritize sustainability, utilizing natural fibers such as abaca, palm leaves, raffia, linen, silk, wool, and cashmere. These materials are processed using methods that blend ancient craft techniques with modern approaches. The brand focuses on preserving rare artifacts and traditional skills from remote villages, ensuring these unique practices are not lost to industrialization, thereby contributing to both design innovation and cultural heritage. #TextileTrends #WallpaperDesign #MaisonEtObjet #InteriorDesign #HomeDecor #LuxuryFabrics #SustainableMaterials #ParisDesignWeek #DesignExhibition

The article details the collaboration between fashion designer Roksanda Ilinčić and artist Rana Begum for Roksanda's A/W 2020 show at London Fashion Week. This partnership resulted in a unique, kaleidoscopic netted runway installation, reflecting both artists' shared emphasis on color and light within their work. Ilinčić's brand consistently explores female creativity and collaboration, a theme evident in her previous partnerships and her ongoing artistic dialogues. The inspiration for the A/W 2020 installation stemmed from Begum's observations of fishermen in flooded rice fields in Bangladesh. The artist chose lightweight netting as her primary medium, sourced during her residency in Morocco, due to its capacity to be manipulated for tension and force. This netting was spray-painted in vibrant neon blocks, allowing colors to blend and diffract light, creating a hazy, ethereal effect. The installation was strategically placed within the majestic courtyard of the Durbar Court of The Foreign & Commonwealth Office, floating above the catwalk and serving as a modernist cloud. This design choice directly complemented Ilinčić’s A/W 2020 collection, which showcased fluidity and movement through caped dresses, slouchy leather sportswear, and chunky cable jumpers, all presented in a rich palette of lime, aubergine, magenta, and caramel. Ilinčić consistently integrates art and architecture as foundational elements for her collections, viewing them as crucial starting points for her designs. She emphasizes the importance of collaborating with other creative individuals to enrich her storytelling. Prior to this collaboration with Begum, Ilinčić worked with the London-based art collective Troika for her A/W 2019 show. This earlier collaboration featured an abstract runway installation with six rainbow projections, drawing inspiration from Troika's 2019 Barbican artwork, 'Borrowed Light.' These continuous artistic collaborations highlight Ilinčić's commitment to creating immersive and narratively driven runway experiences. The installation not only served as a visual spectacle but also underscored the essence of Ilinčić’s collection, which focused on lightness and movement expressed through various mediums. Both Ilinčić and Begum share a background that has influenced their artistic appreciation for prismatic aesthetics, with Ilinčić hailing from Serbia and Begum from Bangladesh. This shared sensibility further strengthened the collaborative vision, making the installation a natural extension of both their individual artistic languages. The partnership showcases a harmonious blend of fashion and art, where the runway becomes a dynamic canvas for artistic expression and storytelling. #RoksandaIlincic #RanaBegum #LondonFashionWeek #FashionInstallation #ArtCollaboration #RunwayDesign #AWCouture #FemaleCreativity #TextileArt

This primer delves into the intricate world of textiles, guided by Rachel Doriss, design director at Pollack, who has dedicated 25 years to the industry. The discussion covers various aspects of fabric, from the fundamental properties of different fibers to advanced weaving techniques, printing methods, and performance considerations for both residential and commercial applications. Doriss emphasizes how understanding these elements is crucial for designers to make informed material selections, fulfill client needs, and avoid common textile-related pitfalls. The article begins with an exploration of protein fibers, specifically focusing on wool. It details how wool, derived from sheep and lambs, offers resilience and insulation due to its hollow core and natural lanolin coating, making it flame and soil-resistant. The nuances of wool, such as the fineness of Merino and the smooth finish of worsted wool, are explained, along with its suitability for rugs, upholstery, and drapery. The evolution of commercial fabrics, now relying on synthetic fibers for affordability and easy maintenance, is also touched upon. Other animal fibers like mohair (from angora goats), cashmere (from cashmere goats), alpaca, camel hair, and angora rabbit fur are introduced, each with unique characteristics that contribute to their specific applications, from durable theater seating to soft, luxurious garments. Silk, originating from silkworms, is highlighted for its unique luster and delicate nature, primarily recommended for decorative residential use due to its UV sensitivity. Transitioning to plant fibers, the primer discusses cotton and linen. Cotton, known for its moisture-absorbing properties, is often blended with other fibers for increased durability. Linen, one of the oldest fibers, is celebrated for its strength, luster, and characteristic wrinkling, which Doriss describes as part of its appeal. The processing of flax to produce linen, including retting and the origin of 'towhead,' is detailed. Practical advice for using linen, particularly for drapery, is provided, accounting for its reaction to humidity. The article also covers rayon and its variations (viscose, modal, acetate, bamboo), explaining their cellulosic origin and versatility in mimicking natural fibers like linen or silk. Despite past misconceptions, rayon is presented as a valuable fiber with a beautiful hand and fluid drape, particularly when used strategically to minimize shading. Synthetic fibers, such such as polyester, polyurethane, and acrylic, are examined for their chemical composition and performance benefits. Polyester, once associated with leisure suits, has evolved into a sophisticated material that can emulate natural fibers, offering easy cleaning and durability. Polyurethane forms the base for faux leathers, while acrylic provides fade and moisture resistance, making it ideal for outdoor use and as a wool alternative. The strategic blending of synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon with luxury yarns in warp and weft constructions is discussed as a way to enhance durability and manage costs. The role of yarn in defining a fabric's personality is explored, with a focus on novelty yarns like boucle and chenille. The importance of yarn tightness in relation to strength and appearance is explained using the analogy of braiding hair. Various weave constructions—plain, basket, twill, and satin—are described, clarifying that satin refers to a weave rather than a fiber type. The susceptibility of certain weaves to snagging is noted, and designers are encouraged to physically examine fabric samples. The article also introduces the Martindale and Wyzenbeek scales for measuring abrasion resistance, cautioning that high double rub counts do not always equate to overall durability, necessitating consideration of factors like pilling, seam slippage, and cleanability. Velvet, a popular upholstery fabric, is explained in terms of its construction, differentiating between loop and cut pile variations. The phenomenon of 'crushing' or 'panne' in pile fabrics is discussed, along with how different fibers, like linen, contribute to specific aging effects. The primer then delves into printing and embellishment techniques. Digital printing is highlighted for its ability to achieve painterly effects with numerous colors, while screen printing is described as a more artisanal process involving individual screens for each color. Block printing, an even more labor-intensive method, is celebrated for its authentic, handcrafted variations. Embroidery, both machine-guided and hand-guided, is presented as a way to add texture and intricate designs, including unique examples like space-dyed yarn and water-soluble embroidery. Finally, the article discusses performance fabrics, emphasizing solution dyeing for enhanced fade and bleach resistance in synthetic fibers, crucial for outdoor and high-traffic areas. The importance of finishes, not just for protection but also for achieving specific aesthetic effects like blurred surfaces and exaggerated textures, concludes the comprehensive overview of textiles. #TextilePrimer #FabricFibers #YarnTypes #WeavingTechniques #TextileFinishes #PerformanceFabrics #InteriorDesignMaterials #PollackTextiles #RachelDoriss