The Forgotten History of Bourne and Allen’s Mid-Century Textiles

Susan “Rabbit” Goody, founder of Thistle Hill Weavers in Cherry Valley, New York, has dedicated her life to the meticulous reproduction of historic textiles. Her workshop, established in 1989, specializes in creating fabrics that faithfully replicate the weave, texture, weight, and color of historical materials for a diverse clientele including filmmakers, television producers, historic houses, and high-end furniture and clothing companies. Goody’s unique skill set makes her an indispensable resource for costume designers seeking unparalleled historical accuracy in their productions. Goody's journey into textiles began in her teenage years, driven by a fascination with the weaving process. After earning a degree in cultural anthropology and ethnomusicology from Bennington College in 1972, she moved to rural New York, where she initially supported herself through farm work. In 1975, she purchased a 150-acre farmstead and, with her first husband, built a home inspired by a 1690 Connecticut house. She developed a successful hand-weaving business, selling cashmere-and-silk scarves to stores like Saks Fifth Avenue. Her expertise grew during her tenure as head of the domestic arts program and curator of textiles at the Farmers’ Museum in Cooperstown, where she became a recognized authority on early American textiles. Goody also founded the Textile History Forum, an annual conference that convenes researchers, museum professionals, and scholars. In 1989, she moved her operation into an old feed mill, later expanding to a purpose-built facility next to her home. Today, Thistle Hill Weavers employs seven individuals trained by Goody to operate nine mechanized shuttle looms, some dating back to the 1890s, alongside archaic equipment like warp winders and quillers. Goody’s commitment to authenticity is evident in her approach to acquiring and maintaining machinery. She has salvaged looms from closing textile mills across several states, often from the legendary industrial loom-maker Crompton & Knowles, and has taught herself to repair and operate them. This dedication ensures that her workshop can produce textiles with historical integrity. Her fabrics have graced numerous film and television productions, including "The Gilded Age," _Cinderella Man_, _Master and Commander_, _No Country for Old Men_, _Noah_, "John Adams," and "Turn: Washington’s Spies." She even hand-wove a replica of a fragment of the original Star-Spangled Banner for a Smithsonian event. When a costume designer approaches Thistle Hill, Goody employs a blend of historical knowledge and modern technology. She uses a computer-attached loom to experiment with weave patterns and selects threads to match specific weight, texture, and color requirements. Her process involves creating small woven samples, which are then expedited to clients for review. This meticulous attention to detail is crucial, as even subtle changes in yarn weight or color can significantly alter a fabric’s character, impacting an actor's movement and the overall authenticity of a period piece. For instance, a fabric she produced for Tom Hanks’ overcoat in _Road to Perdition_ had to be re-woven with lighter materials for rain scenes due to its original, historically accurate weight making it too heavy when wet. Goody’s reputation as a historian and her practical skills make her an invaluable collaborator. Costume designers like Joanna Johnston, who worked with Goody on Steven Spielberg’s _Lincoln_, praise her weaving abilities and extensive historical knowledge. Goody recreated Abraham Lincoln’s shawl for Daniel Day-Lewis based on a detailed study of the original held by the Smithsonian. Beyond film, her work extends to historic preservation, such as creating delicate white dimity curtains for Emily Dickinson’s bedroom and a brightly striped Venetian carpet. She also produces custom fabrics for diverse applications, including a 'Mandalorian' cloak, demonstrating the versatility of her workshop. At 72, Goody remains actively involved in her mill and farm, displaying no plans for retirement, driven by her passion and the unique, irreplaceable skills she possesses in bringing the past tangibly to life through textiles. #TextileHistory #HistoricTextiles #CostumeDesign #FilmProduction #ThistleHillWeavers #RabbitGoody #LoomWeaving #TextileConservation #CulturalHeritage

Taschen's "The Book of Printed Fabrics. From the 16th century until today" is a significant publication that offers an in-depth exploration of printed textiles. This two-volume work showcases the extensive collection of the Musée de l’Impression sur étoffes (The Museum of Printed Fabrics) located in Mulhouse, France, which is renowned as the world's most important repository of printed textiles, featuring contributions from four continents. The museum, established in the 1800s, stands as a testament to the thriving fabric printing industry of its time. The book, meticulously compiled by author Aziza Gril-Mariotte, comprises approximately 900 images spread across 888 pages. It includes accompanying texts in English, French, and German, designed to provide a comprehensive and enriching experience for both casual readers and researchers. The first volume delves into a wide array of international designs, highlighting textiles from regions such as India and Japan. This volume features a diverse range of patterns, from intricate floral motifs to abstract designs, including classic paisleys and sophisticated batik-inspired gradients. A notable section in this volume explores the profound impact of industrialization on the evolution of printing processes and, consequently, on fabric design. Moving into the second volume, the focus shifts to the advanced techniques and creative innovations in fabric production during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. This section reveals how many designs, color palettes, and methods from these earlier periods possess a surprisingly contemporary aesthetic, often appearing as if they could have originated in the digital age. Examples such as the Ground Patterns created by Mizzi Ebert and Adele Bettelheim in 1904, alongside dress fabric samples from 1880, demonstrate a foresight in design that resonates with modern sensibilities. The book is currently available for pre-order through Taschen's online store, priced at 200 USD. This publication is not merely a collection of images and historical data; it serves as a valuable resource for understanding the artistic, cultural, and technological journey of printed fabrics. It underscores the enduring legacy of textile design and its continuous influence on aesthetics across different eras. The work emphasizes the historical significance of the Mulhouse museum's collection, positioning it as a crucial reference for anyone interested in the history and development of printed textiles. #TextileHistory #PrintedFabrics #TaschenBooks #MuséeDeLImpressionSurEtoffes #FabricDesign #DesignHistory #TextileArt #MulhouseMuseum #ArtBooks

This article explores the intricate world of collecting historic textiles, emphasizing the unique value derived from their extraordinary technique, artistry, and cultural significance. Titi Halle, owner and director of Cora Ginsburg, a prominent textile gallery, provides expert insights into identifying, valuing, and understanding these delicate artifacts. The limited supply of high-quality historic textiles, owing to their inherent fragility and historical use in clothing and furnishings, contributes to their allure among a dedicated community of collectors. The history of textile collecting began to gain public traction in the 19th century, with major museums establishing comprehensive textile and clothing collections by the early 20th century. Institutions like the Victoria and Albert Museum, Musée des Tissus, and the Textile Museum at George Washington University were instrumental in this movement. Private collectors also became active, with lace, for instance, being a popular item, even leading to the formation of clubs like the Needle and Bobbin Club. While European textiles once saw significant private interest, today, there's a greater focus on Asian textiles, with many collectors specializing in specific regions like Ottoman, Indonesian, or Indian, or particular types such as silks, cottons, ikats, or painted chintz. Religious textiles and attire also form a distinct collecting category. The article highlights the textile collection of the late Ann Getty, an interior designer and philanthropist, which is notable for its immense volume and diversity. Comprising over 200 pieces from the 17th to 20th centuries, her collection spans global origins, including Asian, African, European, and American textiles, as well as religious garments. This collection, to be offered at Christie's New York, demonstrates the broad scope and richness possible in textile collecting. Halle underscores the historical value of textiles, noting that in past centuries, they were far more costly and scarce than modern materials due to labor-intensive hand production. Textiles, especially royal or noble garb, could even surpass the value of precious metals. This inherent value led to textiles being continually reused and repurposed. For example, an 18th-century silk dress might be transformed into a church chasuble, then a coverlet, and eventually cushions, showcasing their longevity and adaptability. This cycle of reuse explains why well-preserved, pristine textiles are so rare today. The fragility and condition of textiles are critical factors in their current market value. Many textiles are permanently removed from circulation once they enter museum collections or are repurposed for functional items. Maintaining these artifacts requires specialized conservation efforts. Exceptional condition significantly enhances a textile's rarity and value, as survival through centuries of daily use, travel, and conflicts is considered miraculous. Irreversible damage from stains or light exposure further emphasizes the importance of condition. Identifying textiles involves meticulous examination of their structural characteristics. Clues such as weave structure, thread type (S or Z twist, single or double ply), and width can indicate origin and period. For instance, specific fabric widths often correspond to the loom technologies of certain countries in different eras. Microscopic analysis aids in identifying these details. Furthermore, historical palettes and dye types, distinguishing between natural and synthetic dyes, provide additional insights into a textile's provenance. While purists advocate for conservation to preserve textiles, their decorative potential is undeniable. Ann Getty's approach exemplified this, using diverse historic and international textiles to create opulent and unique interiors. She fearlessly repurposed items, even cutting a chasuble for a chair, and commissioned custom fabrics when necessary, demonstrating an original and bold vision for integrating textiles into design. This integration of textiles offers significant visual impact, making them a crucial element in interior decoration. #TextileCollecting #HistoricTextiles #DecorativeArts #TextileConservation #AnnGettyCollection #CoraGinsburg #TextileIdentification #WeaveStructure #InteriorDesign

The use of vintage and antique textiles in interior design offers a unique way to imbue spaces with character and historical depth. However, integrating these fabrics effectively requires careful consideration to avoid a shabby or overly 'Miss Havisham' aesthetic. While an antique armchair with faded chintz might appear charming at first, its condition could reveal itself as truly worn or stained upon closer inspection. This article suggests that while a full reupholstering might sometimes be necessary, antique textiles can still be incorporated successfully into modern interiors. Experts like Cassandra Ellis, founder of Atelier Ellis, and interior designer Henriette von Stockhausen of VSP Interiors advocate for vintage fabrics due to their ability to provide a lived-in, comfortable, and softened feel to a room. These fabrics can make a formal space feel more relaxed and approachable. Ellis notes that old fabric can give life to a piece in a way modern fabrics cannot, highlighting the sustainability aspect as well, given the abundance of existing textiles. Von Stockhausen similarly emphasizes that vintage fabrics add depth to an interior. A crucial factor when using vintage textiles for upholstery is suitability. Joanna Plant, an interior designer who frequently uses these materials, advises assessing the fabric's weight and fragility. Robust woven fabrics are suitable for ottoman tops, while more delicate materials might be better for less-stressed areas like the sides of furniture or headboards. Ellis cautions against using fragile materials like 1940s French silk velvet on high-traffic items like family sofas, suggesting they are better suited for occasional pieces such as bedroom chairs. For items requiring durability, linen sheets or Hungarian cloth are recommended, as they can be pieced together and are robust. While embracing imperfections is part of the charm, Henriette von Stockhausen advises against using fabrics that are beyond repair. Instead, she suggests repurposing usable sections and praises the art of patchworking for its environmental and soulful benefits. Joanna Plant offers a clever solution to prevent a 'scruffy' look: combining vintage textiles with new fabrics. This approach allows for the use of vintage materials on less-used parts of a piece, such as the inside back or outside arm of a chair, while more durable new linens or cotton velvets are used for high-wear areas like seat covers or leading edges of curtains. Trims can also add a crispness to vintage textiles, preventing them from appearing too shabby. Sourcing vintage textiles can be done through various channels, including specialized dealers like Katharine Pole, Amanda Leader, and The Dyeworks, as well as online platforms like Etsy and antique fairs such as Kempton or Ardingly. For fabrics that require minor restoration, a textile restorer is recommended, and dry-cleaning before upholstery is a vital step. The article highlights that Christopher Howe is known for his masterful use of antique textiles on furniture, creating beautiful examples. Finally, selecting an experienced upholsterer is paramount when working with vintage textiles. A skilled craftsperson will understand the unique challenges and sensitivities of these materials. It is advisable to visit the upholsterer and place the textile on the furniture piece together to ensure the desired outcome. Upholsterers should be briefed that perfection is not expected, and minor flaws or even patches are acceptable, reflecting the inherent nature of working with old materials. The overarching philosophy when using vintage textiles is to embrace their fragility and imperfections, viewing their use as a celebration of their history rather than allowing them to remain unused. #AntiqueTextiles #VintageFabrics #Upholstery #InteriorDesign #HomeDecoration #SustainableDesign #FurnitureRestoration #FabricSourcing #TextileArt

This article celebrates the centenary of Lucienne Day, a pivotal figure in post-war British design, renowned for her vibrant, modernist textile designs. Lucienne Day, born on January 5, 1917, in Croydon, south London, studied at Croydon School of Art and the Royal College of Art (RCA) in the late 1930s, where she met her future husband, furniture designer Robin Day. Her RCA diploma show featured hand-block and screen-printed bold repeats, displayed alongside her husband's furniture, illustrating a nascent collaboration that would define both their careers. While their works often complemented each other, Lucienne Day forged a distinctive path in textiles, driven by a resolute modernist vision. Paula Day, Lucienne's daughter and director of the Robin and Lucienne Day Foundation, draws parallels between her mother's enduring influence and that of William Morris, highlighting the timeless quality of Lucienne's work. Paula suggests that Day's designs possess a "startling power and originality" that distinguishes them from many retro-style patterns. Lucienne Day sought to invigorate the textile industry with fresh, contemporary designs, drawing inspiration from modern artists such as Paul Klee, Joan Miró, and Alexander Calder, as well as decorative traditions from her studies at the V&A Museum. Plant forms, for example, consistently reappeared throughout her body of work. Her breakthrough came with 'Calyx', a stylized floral textile design launched at the 1951 Festival of Britain. This design, mixing muted and acid colors, was a radical departure in pattern aesthetics. Despite initial skepticism from Heal's fabrics director Tom Worthington, 'Calyx' proved immensely successful, leading to a two-decade-long collaboration with Heal's, during which she produced approximately 70 patterns for the brand. 'Calyx' remains in production today, a testament to its enduring appeal. Lucienne Day's style was characterized by continuous evolution, a responsiveness to fashion trends without merely following them, and an exploration of new artistic techniques. Early 1950s designs, such as 'Dandelion Clocks' and 'Trio', showcased quirky motifs rendered with fine black lines on solid colored backgrounds. Later, she experimented with monoprint techniques, creating textured effects through drawings on acetate sheets applied to tissue paper collages, as seen in 'Cadenza' and 'Night and Day'. Her architectural designs of the mid-1970s, including 'Apex' and 'Lucienne', led to her invention of "silk mosaics," a new textile medium using one-centimeter squares of richly colored silk to form strong abstract patterns. Among her vast portfolio, Paula Day finds 'Night and Day', a tea towel designed for Irish linen manufacturer Thomas Somerset in 1961, particularly poignant. This design, which perfectly balances a strong monoprint drawing of an owl with textured paper sun rays, symbolizes the relationship between her parents. Over her 60-year career, Lucienne Day collaborated with numerous prominent brands, including Liberty, John Lewis, Cole & Son, and Rosenthal, applying her distinctive flair to fabrics, wallpapers, carpets, homeware, and ceramics. Her unique combination of color, line, form, and composition created a recognizable style that continues to resonate decades later. Lucienne Day received significant accolades, becoming the first woman to be made master of Royal Designers for Industry in 1987 and awarded an OBE in 2004. She passed away in 2010 at the age of 93. In commemoration of her centenary, the Robin and Lucienne Day Foundation has released 100 previously unseen images of her work, which are featured on a 'Lucienne Day 100' poster and will be showcased in exhibitions, events, and awards throughout 2017. #LucienneDay #TextileDesign #ModernistDesign #BritishDesign #PostWarDesign #PatternDesign #MidCentury #DesignCentenary #DesignIcon

This article delves into the creative process behind the Ruggable x 'Bridgerton' rug collection, a collaboration designed to extend the fan experience of the Shondaland series into home decor. Zashary Caro, one of Ruggable's textile designers, highlights the intention to imbue the rugs with a sense of history, viewing them as both canvases and historical records. The collection features four distinct rugs, each making a unique 'Bridgerton' statement. Caro designed the “Bridgerton Lady Whistledown Vintage Pink” and “Royal Garden Multicolor” rugs, while Joyce Fontanilla crafted the “Bridgerton Night of Enchantment Deep Teal and Royal Plum” and “Bridgerton Fit for a Queen Soft Rose” rugs, drawing inspiration from the show's elaborate garden parties and wisteria. Caro details her design inspiration, which drew heavily from rococo architecture, European historic textiles, and Baroque-inspired clothing and interiors, aligning with the dramatic and ornamental aesthetic of both the 'Bridgerton' series and the 18th-century rococo art movement. To fully immerse herself in the era's mindset, Caro watched the entire series, allowing her to design for an overall feeling of regal luxury. She also studied the opulent interiors featured in 'Bridgerton,' such as the House of Bridgerton and Hampton Court Palace, to ensure the rugs evoked a sense of luxury and royalty, incorporating florals and scrollwork reminiscent of period clothing. The design process began with collaging, where Caro used inspirational images and her own drawings to create original designs in Photoshop, treating the rug as a canvas with infinite possibilities due to the absence of traditional repeat designs. These collages served as preliminary mood boards. The borders of the rugs were tackled first, setting the template for the overall design. Caro then digitally drew motifs and details, including small bees in the “Royal Garden Multicolor” rug, symbolizing matriarchal power and societal transformation, and crowns in the “Bridgerton Lady Whistledown Vintage Pink” rug, which seamlessly blended with floral and ornate motifs. After concept approval, Caro moved to coloring, creating various colorway options to be sampled and reviewed by the team. The aim was to ensure the collection reflected the wide range of colors seen in the series, from soft pastels to opulent gem-like hues. The “Royal Garden Multicolor” rug, for instance, was inspired by the Featheringtons' preference for bold prints. The final step involved developing texture, a challenging aspect due to the need to balance a historic, distressed look with a modern, lighthearted, and whimsical feel. Caro achieved this through fading and shading colors while maintaining softness and regality. The entire 10-week design process was collaborative, involving digital and physical sample reviews, culminating in a collection that subtly references the show and art history, bringing modern romance into living spaces through each rug. The article concludes with Ruggable tips for choosing a rug, emphasizing starting with existing furniture, opting for larger sizes for cohesion, and considering placement to best showcase the rug's features. #Ruggable #Bridgerton #TextileDesign #RococoStyle #HomeDecor #RegencyEra #ArtHistory #ProductCollaboration #InteriorDesign

Decorating with vintage fabrics introduces color, pattern, and warmth into interiors, offering a unique opportunity to personalize a space with artistry and handcraftsmanship. These fabrics evoke comfort and nostalgia, making them a popular choice for interior designers seeking to create timeless schemes, while also complementing modern design elements for characterful, layered rooms. The versatility of vintage fabrics allows for their incorporation in various applications, from curtains and seating to lampshades and cushions, with even small pieces contributing significant depth and interest. Vintage fabrics, including tapestries, ticking, Indiennes, and Ikats, serve as a continuous source of inspiration for interior designs. Their rich archive of historic designs and inimitable craftsmanship enable the creation of bespoke pieces imbued with unique stories and aged markings. This approach offers a sustainable alternative to new materials, and mixing antique fabrics with modern pieces helps achieve a 'lived-in' feel, making interiors appear to have evolved organically over time. Designers emphasize that nothing should feel overly contrived; rather, the aim is to create playful and captivating spaces. Vintage textiles also cater to a desire for comfort and nostalgia, a prevalent trend in contemporary home decor. While highly desirable for their bespoke charm, authentic vintage fabrics present certain challenges. They are often available in limited quantities or irregular lengths, which can complicate their use for extensive projects like long drapes or large upholstery. The quality and condition of these fabrics can also vary, with signs of age and faded colors due to sun exposure being common. Caroline Inchyra, founder of Inchyra, notes their potential fragility, leading her to develop vintage-inspired linens with aged finishes that offer the aesthetic appeal with improved durability. When considering vintage fabrics for upholstery, smaller pieces are often more practical. If upholstering furniture, it is crucial to verify the fabric's composition and ensure it meets fire safety regulations and has a Martindale or rub count of at least 15,000 for adequate strength and durability. Incorporating vintage fabrics effectively involves layering them with modern prints to create relaxing and welcoming spaces, particularly in living rooms and bedrooms, and to soften hard surfaces in kitchens and bathrooms. Designers recommend starting with a 'hero print'—a large-scale floral with a comprehensive color palette—and building upon it with geometrics, squiggles, or small-scale fabrics in complementary colors. The base cloth color of different fabrics is also a critical consideration to ensure a cohesive look. For smaller quantities of beloved vintage fabrics, creating statement cushions or lampshades is an ideal solution. Lampshades, in particular, are excellent for showcasing unique textiles without requiring extensive yardage. For those who find authentic vintage fabrics difficult to source or limited in length, new fabrics inspired by archive designs offer a practical alternative. Many companies now produce refreshed versions of historical patterns, maintaining the spirit of a particular era while offering the practical benefits of modern materials, including new colorways, diverse materials, and various scales. William Morris designs, for instance, continue to be popular and are available through brands like Morris & Co., which blend heritage inspirations with contemporary aesthetics. Similarly, modern fabrics that draw on traditional textile practices, such as the 'Tree of Life' velvet inspired by 18th-century Indian textiles, can serve as focal points in a neutral living room. Scatter cushions made from vintage fabric off-cuts provide an easy way to introduce color and pattern into muted schemes, with designers suggesting that exact matching is less important than having a hint of a color used elsewhere in the scheme. Vintage textiles can also be repurposed as wall art. Framed or hung as wall hangings, they offer an alternative to traditional artwork, adding depth and texture. Suzani textiles, known for their vibrant colors, folk patterns, and intricate craftsmanship, are particularly favored for their historical significance and unique designs, often incorporating motifs symbolizing luck, protection, and prosperity. Interior designers frequently incorporate Suzani patterns to infuse a space with handcrafted beauty and historical charm. Beyond decorative pieces, vintage Suzani bedspreads can serve as a striking element, layering beautifully with smaller-scale prints. For a more rustic or laid-back aesthetic, European linens, especially from France and Hungary, offer a slubby texture that complements French country and modern rustic decor. Products made from authentic linen grain sacks, for example, provide a blend of aesthetic appeal and historical narrative, often featuring muted, faded colorways and unique monograms or stripe designs that reflect their humble origins and practical functionality. #VintageFabrics #InteriorDesign #HomeDecor #TextileArt #SustainableDesign #AntiqueTextiles #DecoratingTips #TimelessStyle #Craftsmanship

The city of Mulhouse in eastern France holds significant historical importance within the textile community, serving as a prominent center for textile manufacturing in the early 19th century. Today, it is home to the Musée de l’Impression sur Étoffes, a museum dedicated to preserving and showcasing the history of fabric printing from the 17th century to the present day. To bring the museum's extensive collection to a wider audience, TASCHEN has published a two-volume set titled "The Book of Printed Fabrics: From the 16th Century Until Today." Authored and compiled by Aziza Gril-Mariotte, an art historian, textiles specialist, teacher, and former head of the Mulhouse museum, these books feature high-resolution images of nearly 900 textile pieces. These artifacts represent a broad geographical and historical scope, spanning four continents. The collection begins by tracing the origins of textile design in the Far East, detailing how these patterns subsequently influenced and were adopted by European manufacturers. It explores the evolution of popular textile styles, such as toile de Jouy, and the development of specific color palettes over time. The second volume shifts its focus to the innovations that characterized textile manufacturing and design during the 19th and 20th centuries. This includes an examination of the emergence of distinctive cashmere motifs and the increasing prevalence of natural and floral depictions in fabric designs. The books delve into the technical and artistic advancements that shaped the industry during these periods, illustrating the continuous evolution of textile art. Beyond their informative content, these volumes are designed to be aesthetically pleasing objects. Their bright red spines and an accompanying slipcase are intended to make them visually appealing as decorative items for various home settings, including coffee tables, side tables, or bookshelves. The publication aims to serve as both a comprehensive resource for textile enthusiasts and a beautiful addition to any interior, showcasing the artistry and historical richness of printed fabrics. #TextileDesign #FabricPrinting #DesignBooks #MulhouseMuseum #TASCHEN #ArtHistory #HomeDecor #PatternDesign #FrenchTextiles

Vintage quilts serve as tangible connections to the past, embodying a rich history through their diverse patterns and the human touch involved in their creation. In an era of rapid-fire decor trends, quilts stand out as products of meticulous handcraftsmanship, often born from necessity and a vivid imagination, designed to provide both warmth and aesthetic appeal to a living space. The history of quilting in America is deeply intertwined with social narratives, emerging as a democratic art form brought from England. Largely practiced by women, quilting transformed leftover fabrics from clothing and household items into functional and expressive pieces. Kate Owen, a textile artist from Colorado, notes that quilting has long been a medium for art, self-expression, and enterprise, often documenting a family's history through fabric scraps used for warmth or as gifts. The American Folk Art Museum (AFAM) highlights the ancient origins of quilting, dating back thousands of years. Early American quilts, known as “wholecloth” pieces, were considered luxury items in the 18th century when textiles were scarce. With increased fabric availability in the 19th century, pieced quilts became common, featuring classic designs like Flying Geese and Lemoyne Star, which are preserved in the museum's collection. Experts like Christopher Wilson-Tate, an antique quilt dealer, emphasize that older quilts tell stories of migration, community bonds, and resourcefulness, with every stitch conveying intention and forming a visual diary. American quilters adapted regional patterns using available materials, resulting in textiles that reflect local styles and domestic life. AFAM’s exhibition, ‘The Ecology of Quilts,’ positions quilts as more than decorative objects, describing them as “amazing storytellers and amazing survivors” whose histories are shaped by evolving materials, global textile trade, and numerous makers. Understanding these material histories reveals the deeper contexts behind design elements, such as botanical motifs rooted in quilters' interactions with local flora. Vintage quilts possess unique qualities that only time and use can impart, distinguishing them from contemporary creations. Christopher Wilson-Tate points to the “alchemy that happens only with time,” where colors mellow, cottons soften, and seams develop a subtle texture that new fabrics cannot replicate. These changes are not imperfections but rather integral to a quilt’s character and desirability. Ali Mahon, a designer and antique dealer, notes that 19th-century quilts, made from natural, homespun cottons, wools, and feed sacks, exhibit a “perfectly imperfect” quality. Their durability stems from natural fibers and handwork, allowing them to age gracefully and develop a rich patina. AFAM curators add that vintage quilts also hold ecological histories, offering insights into labor-intensive processes of fiber cultivation and dyeing before modern synthetic materials. For many designers, vintage quilts align with a renewed appreciation for heirlooms and handmade items. Laura Evans and Karie Reinertson of Mother Studio source vintage quilts and commission new ones with the intent that they, too, will become cherished vintage pieces, each tear or stain marking a family’s history. Hospitality brands, like Ash Hotels, also embrace vintage quilt aesthetics, with creative director Xavier Donnelly commissioning custom quilts inspired by historical designs, noting that antique patchwork adds texture, color, and a joyful, unstuffy feel to a room. The practice of repairing antique quilts, as done by Kate Owen, further reveals their evolving nature, sometimes uncovering older quilts used as batting within newer ones, illustrating their continuous life across generations. Vintage quilts are intended for practical use and are an excellent choice for those looking to incorporate vintage decor without worrying about fragility. Kate Owen advises homeowners to display quilts draped over furniture, spread across beds, or hung as wall art to honor the makers' hard work. Styling can range from subtle to expressive; Mother Studio uses quilts seasonally to add depth and softness. For smaller quilts, they suggest adding a sleeve and hanging them on walls, a method also favored by Ali Mahon who recommends mounting them on stretcher bars for gallery-style groupings. Christopher Wilson-Tate views quilts as combining “texture and narrative,” making them suitable for open shelving or as a focal point above a bed. Tori Jones Studio provides further inspiration for displaying quilts in lived-in spaces. The article concludes that vintage quilts impart a profound sense of depth to interiors, grounding a room with authentic material history and reminding us that the most engaging homes are built through layers of objects that have experienced lives before becoming part of our own. When sourcing a vintage quilt, the focus should be on character rather than flawlessness. Christopher Wilson-Tate suggests looking for minor fading, softening, and small repairs, as these details contribute to a quilt's narrative, while avoiding extensive damage. Natural fibers like cotton and linen tend to age best, and hand-quilted pieces are identifiable by the way their stitching interacts with light. Pattern preferences vary among collectors; Ali Mahon favors jewel tones, Double Wedding Ring, and Crazy Quilt designs, while Christopher Wilson-Tate observes renewed interest in chintz medallions, Amish geometrics, log cabins, and star motifs, all of which complement contemporary interiors. AFAM encourages buyers to consider the material provenance beyond just the pattern, asking about the origin of the fabric to deepen the quilt’s story. Vintage quilts can be found on online platforms such as eBay, Etsy, Chairish, and 1stDibs, with reputable textile dealers ensuring accurate information on fiber content, age, and condition. Additionally, estate sales, antique fairs like Brimfield or Round Top, and second-hand shops are excellent sources for unique pieces and even entire collections. #VintageQuilts #InteriorDesign #HomeDecor #TextileArt #QuiltingHistory #HeirloomDecor #SustainableDesign #CollectingAntiques #AmericanFolkArt

Incorporating antique textiles into home decor has become increasingly popular as individuals seek to infuse their living spaces with personality and unique appeal. This approach allows for a blend of old and new, offering a distinctive aesthetic that transcends fleeting trends. While antique furniture and ceramics have long been valued, antique textiles are gaining recognition for their ability to significantly impact a room's design. This guide, drawing on expert insights, explores the multifaceted aspects of decorating with these historical fabrics, from their aesthetic contribution to practical considerations. Antique textiles offer a unique opportunity to personalize a space. Interior design consultant Lucinda Griffith emphasizes that using these textiles creates a scheme that reflects individual taste rather than following widespread trends, thus ensuring greater longevity. The juxtaposition of old and new elements, particularly through antique textiles, can introduce an unexpected layer of sophistication. Samantha Stathis-Lynch of Samantha Ware Designs notes the comfort and elevated feel that older fabrics bring, highlighting their rarity and the importance of acquiring them when found. Jessica Lev of Jessica Lev Antiques points out that antique textiles, with their inherent depth and patina, can make a room feel fresh and distinctive, especially when compared to the common use of modern prints and wallpapers. The unique nature of these fabrics can also inspire entirely new design directions that might not emerge from conventional choices. Despite their aesthetic appeal, there are practical aspects to consider when integrating antique textiles. Jessica Lev warns that these fabrics are often fragile and difficult to clean, making them more suitable for low-traffic areas. Lucinda Griffith advises inspecting them for stains and moth damage before use. Ania Agárdy, a Miami-based designer, suggests treating them as statement pieces rather than purely functional items, placing them strategically to create interest while protecting them from direct sunlight and high humidity. If a discovered fabric is damaged, specialized textile restoration or dry cleaning services might be able to revive it. The decision of whether an antique textile will serve as a focal point or an accent is crucial for integration. Scale is another factor; small pieces are ideal for cushions, which can be backed with contrasting fabric to maximize their impact. Designers also encourage cutting and repurposing fabrics for borders or smaller applications if larger quantities are unavailable. Numerous stylish methods exist for decorating with antique textiles, adaptable to various tastes, styles, and fabric conditions. One prominent method is hanging them on walls, transforming them into art pieces that add texture and a unique statement. Designers like Jessica Lev and Jess Petino of Crewel advocate for this, suggesting that ornate textiles can be framed or used as tapestries above beds for added coziness. Proper hanging techniques are essential to prevent damage over time, with mounting onto a canvas being a recommended preservation method. Alternatively, antique textiles can serve as the foundational inspiration for an entire room's design. Their colors and patterns can guide the selection of paint and upholstery fabrics, establishing a cohesive and wonderfully unique color palette. For those new to textile decor or seeking a more subtle approach, decorative pillows offer an accessible and affordable option, providing bursts of color and contrast. Samantha Stathis-Lynch highlights how faded floral prints or hand-embroidered pillows contribute a warm, lived-in feel to a design. Another effective strategy is to blend antique textiles with modern furnishings to create an appealing contrast. Framing textile samples as wall art or using them in conjunction with contemporary furniture pieces can introduce historical depth and artistic flair, often transforming them into focal points. Finally, for more robust textiles, reupholstering furniture offers a creative way to upcycle older pieces and create one-of-a-kind items, such as ottomans, headboards, or chairs. Designers like Kishani Perera frequently use remnants or even antique clothing for appliques, adding unforgettable details. Whether through simple tapestries and throw pillows or more extensive upholstery projects, antique textiles undeniably enhance a space with unique character and timeless appeal. #AntiqueTextiles #InteriorDesign #HomeDecor #VintageDecor #TextileArt #Upholstery #DecoratingTips #PersonalizedHome #CharacterfulInteriors

Bouclé, a textured fabric known for its small loops, has experienced a significant resurgence in popularity, particularly in interior design and fashion. This versatile material, whose name derives from the French word for 'curl' or 'loop,' was originally made from looped yarn, typically wool. The loops impart a distinct texture, softness, and bulk to the finished cloth, contributing to its cozy and comforting aesthetic. The rise of bouclé can be largely attributed to mid-20th-century design luminaries. Florence Knoll, a pivotal figure in modern furniture design and co-owner of Knoll Associates, played a crucial role in elevating bouclé's status. Knoll, known for her uncompromising approach to design and her philosophy of creating rather than merely decorating spaces, sought a fabric that combined softness with durability. Her collaboration with Eero Saarinen, a childhood friend and frequent design partner, led to the creation of the iconic 'Womb' chair in the mid-1940s. Saarinen designed the chair to be a deep, inviting seat, allowing individuals to 'curl up' comfortably, a concept that perfectly aligned with the tactile qualities of bouclé. The 'Womb' chair was upholstered in Knoll's 'Classic Bouclé,' and both the chair and the fabric achieved immediate success. The fabric's soft texture and hard-wearing practicality made it an ideal choice for residential and commercial settings. Its inherent charm and functionality positioned it as a staple in contemporary design. Beyond interiors, bouclé soon captured the attention of the fashion world. Gabrielle Chanel, a pioneer in modern fashion, had already been experimenting with textured woolen fabrics like tweed since the 1930s. Two decades later, she incorporated bouclé into her collections, creating the distinctive boxy jackets and suits that became, and continue to be, symbols of chic elegance. This crossover into high fashion further cemented bouclé's reputation as a sophisticated and desirable material. The current renewed interest in bouclé is closely linked to the enduring popularity of mid-century modern design. Over the past five years, luxury textile firms such as Dedar have introduced collections dedicated to this tactile fabric. Furthermore, leading furniture designers like Levi Christiansen, Royal Stranger, and Raf Simons for Kvadrat have integrated bouclé into their new furniture ranges. The fabric's ability to add texture, visual interest, and comfort to interiors has contributed to its sustained appeal. Bouclé's versatility allows it to be used in various applications, from subtle accents to prominent furniture pieces. It can be featured in cushions, such as those made from Lelièvre's 'Kosi' or 'Lama' fabrics, or it can serve as upholstery for larger items like chairs and sofas, exemplified by B&B; Italia’s 'Tortello' chair designed by Barber Osgerby. Its tactile nature and aesthetic appeal ensure its continued relevance in contemporary design, making it a favorite among designers and homeowners alike. #BoucleFabric #InteriorDesign #TextileHistory #MidCenturyModern #FlorenceKnoll #EeroSaarinen #WombChair #FashionInfluence #TexturedFabrics

North Carolina once held a prominent global position in the textile industry, fueled by industrial innovations, abundant waterpower, and readily available raw materials. By 1921, the state boasted 341 mills, generating $191 million annually and transforming the landscape with company towns and industrial communities throughout its Piedmont and foothills regions. A notable example was Cliffside, home to the largest gingham mill in the South. However, the early twenty-first century brought globalization and consolidation, leading to a significant decline in this once-thriving industry. Today, a resurgence is underway as some companies find innovative ways to rebuild. In 2019, Crypton, a company specializing in high-performance upholstery fabrics, acquired Cliffside’s historic Abercrombie Mill. This acquisition has revitalized the production of innovative luxury home fabrics, establishing Crypton Mills at Broad River as a leader in the industry, prioritizing sustainability, well-being, and American craftsmanship. This initiative aligns with Crypton CEO Lance Keziah’s philosophy that companies should act as positive change-makers for both communities and the products they create. Crypton exemplifies this through its Crypton Home Performance Recycled Cottons, which represent a market-first offering. These fabrics, designed and woven at the Crypton Mills at Broad River, are featured on Universal Furniture products, also handcrafted in North Carolina, demonstrating a commitment to local production and global responsibility. The fashion industry globally contributes to 20 percent of waste, and Crypton addresses this by crafting this collection from 50 to 70 percent recycled cotton, repurposed from garment industry waste. The Cliffside team at Crypton is at the forefront of modern upholstery production. They are the first in the home design sector to integrate Recover cotton yarns into home fabrics. This innovative closed-loop technology transforms cotton apparel waste into valuable new fibers and pure cotton yarn, a method previously almost exclusively used in clothing manufacturing. Beyond their eco-friendly origins, these Performance Recycled Cottons also incorporate Crypton’s patented spill-repelling, stain-resistant, and odor-resisting properties. This collaboration between two respected North Carolina brands is rejuvenating a declining industry, advancing the trade for the greater good, and reinforcing the state’s reputation as a premier region for furniture. While the design and technology capabilities have evolved significantly since the Abercrombie Mill became a textile hub 120 years ago, the core essence of the place and the people driving America’s leading fiber firm remains consistent: a dedicated North Carolina community charting a path toward the future. #NorthCarolina #TextileIndustry #Crypton #AbercrombieMill #SustainableFabrics #RecycledCotton #UpholsteryFabric #HomeDesign #AmericanCraftsmanship

In an increasingly commoditized market flooded with generic products, establishing a unique brand identity and achieving customer recognition is paramount for designers. Textile designer Beatrice Larkin has successfully cultivated a signature style in her woven textiles, accessories, and interior products, making her designs instantly recognizable through their distinctive blurred edges and broken geometrics. Her creative process begins with hand-drawn sketches, where the initial marks, intricate patterns, and blotches made with pen and ink are deliberately preserved and celebrated in the finished fabric. This artistic approach ensures a consistent aesthetic across all her woven creations. The production of Larkin's textiles involves a collaborative effort with skilled manufacturers in the north of England. She works with a Jacquard mill in Lancashire to produce small runs of her woven designs, which are then washed and finished in the Yorkshire Dales. The process begins in her Margate studio, where she engages in extensive mark-making with inks, envisioning the final product's scale and application. These initial designs are then refined using Photoshop to determine fabric repeats and optimal sizing. Currently, her collection features two primary materials: fine Merino wool, typically used for throws, cushions, and accessories, and recycled cotton, a more robust option suitable for cushions, upholstery, and curtains. The Merino wool, known for its softness, is sourced from spinners in Italy. Similarly, the recycled cotton collection utilizes rejected fabrics from the clothing industry, which are re-spun and repurposed, also originating from Italian spinners. These yarns are then sent to the Lancashire mill for weaving, brushing, and washing before being returned to Larkin. The final products are then sewn either in her studio or by local Margate makers, though fabric is also available for purchase by the meter. This meticulous production chain underscores her commitment to quality and sustainable practices. Beatrice Larkin's entrepreneurial journey recently received significant recognition with the Start Up Award as part of the Women’s Launch Lab Incubator 2024. As one of ten female entrepreneurs selected from hundreds of applicants, she participated in an intensive three-day program. This program provided access to expertise from innovative female entrepreneurs, growth and marketing strategists, and public-speaking coaches. The experience culminated in pitching her business to venture capitalists and angel investors, including notable figures such as Alison Cork MBE, Akshata Murty, and Judy Naake MBE. Larkin emphasized that this experience offered valuable perspective and a significant confidence boost. Her business was founded in 2013, immediately following her Master's degree from the Royal College of Art, where her final collection garnered interest from prominent buyers like Heal’s. After graduating, she sought a British mill capable of producing her designs at scale. In 2015, Daylesford Organic provided funding for her initial fabric run, which was woven in the Cotswolds and Yorkshire. This collection was sold at Daylesford and served as a crucial launchpad for future manufacturing endeavors. By spring 2017, she began selling at Heal’s and unveiled her first collection at Clerkenwell Design Week. Larkin's immersion in the fabrics industry was a natural progression, deeply influenced by her upbringing. Her father owned Gordon Larkin Fine Wallpaper & Fabric in Canterbury, and her mother was also a textile designer, ensuring a household constantly surrounded by fabrics. Childhood memories of accompanying her father to design shows in Chelsea Harbour and exploring fabric showrooms further solidified her connection to the industry. She attributes her entrepreneurial spirit and the ability to forge her own path to observing her parents' lifestyle as business owners. Three years ago, Larkin relocated to Margate, drawn by its vibrant creative community. Since then, she has expanded her client base, with local stockists including Turner Contemporary and Harbour & Tide. Her brand, Beatrice Larkin, has also been embraced by renowned establishments such as Made, Studio Ashby, Conran and Partners, Tate Modern, and Piglet in Bed. Her journey reflects a blend of inherited passion, formal education, strategic partnerships, and a clear vision for her brand's aesthetic and ethical production. #TextileDesign #BeatriceLarkin #MargateDesign #WovenTextiles #InteriorProducts #SustainableMaterials #BritishManufacturing #Entrepreneurship #WomenInBusiness

Humphries Weaving, a prominent British manufacturer, specializes in custom jacquard fabrics, offering bespoke weaving services tailored to specific project briefs. Their approach allows for customization in color, design, and composition. The company prioritizes design excellence and integrity, leveraging extensive knowledge, a rich archive, and technical expertise to produce fabrics for a diverse clientele. This includes prestigious institutions such as Royal Palaces and Historic Houses. While they predominantly focus on historical furnishings, Humphries Weaving also collaborates with contemporary interior design firms and provides fabrics for ceremonial gowns. A notable example of their work involves the authentic restoration of a listed building in Middelburg, The Netherlands. The client, engaged in researching historical fabric wall coverings, found Humphries Weaving's direct-to-customer approach appealing. They selected an 18th-century "Perquisite" damask from a range of gold and cream samples to create custom fabric, which was then woven in Sudbury, Suffolk. The clients undertook the installation of the fabric walling themselves and expressed satisfaction with the outcome, believing it effectively integrates the historical influences within the room. They credited Humphries Weaving for their assistance in navigating their historical pattern archive, as well as for their expertise, advice, and encouragement throughout the interior design process. Humphries Weaving's commitment to quality and historical accuracy is evident in their projects, reinforcing their position as a key player in the textile industry for both historical and contemporary applications. The company invites interested parties to explore their work further via their website and Instagram. #BritishTextileWeek #HumphriesWeaving #JacquardFabrics #BespokeTextiles #HistoricalFurnishings #InteriorDesign #TextileManufacturing #RestorationProjects #CustomFabrics

The Textile Company, a Sydney-based enterprise, has established itself as a significant force in Australia's interior design industry, supplying high-quality fabrics and wallcoverings to leading designers such as David Hicks, Greg Natale, Thomas Hamel, Alexandra Kidd, Kate Nixon, and Adelaide Bragg. Owner Peter Fitzgibbon, who started his career in a fabric warehouse in Auckland four decades ago, built the company on a deep passion for textiles. His early experiences included measuring and cutting fabric, moving into sales, and eventually buying, which led to crucial supplier relationships with international brands like Phillip Jeffries, Misia, and Fabricut. The company's showroom is organized with fabrics meticulously filed by color base, alongside a diverse library of grasscloth, wall coverings, and wall murals, reflecting a serious expertise in product. The inclusion of Peter's daughter, Jessica, marked a new phase for the business. Jessica's operational skills allowed Peter to dedicate more time to sourcing excellence and attending European trade shows, while she managed the day-to-day operations. Their collaboration leverages their distinct strengths, fostering growth and innovation within the company. Jessica emphasizes the importance of storytelling behind the brands they represent. She aims to understand and share the narrative of each fabric and wallcovering, bringing the product to life beyond its physical sample. An example she highlights is Jean Monro, a historic English fabric company renowned for weaving and hand-blocking fabrics for the British Royal Family. With King Charles's endorsement, Jean Monro is set to release 40 exclusive royal designs, showcasing a dedication to preserving traditional craft. Jessica actively hosts industry events to connect designers with craftspeople, facilitating a deeper understanding of these fabric houses. The Textile Company also champions traditional techniques, as seen in the 'Manila Hemp' grasscloth wallcovering collection from Phillip Jeffries. This collection features fibers grown and hand-loomed by artisans in the Philippines and finished by skilled craftspeople in Japan. These textural wallcoverings, available in various colors, are increasingly used in high-end residential and luxury hotel projects, offering an alternative to paint with their rich texture. Sustainability is a core focus for The Textile Company, recognizing the textile industry's environmental impact. Jessica highlights the importance of responsible selling, differentiating their products from fast fashion. She notes that reupholstering furniture is a considered act of sustainability. Peter makes conscious sourcing choices, opting for natural, pure linens and recycled polyesters whenever possible, reflecting the company's commitment to environmentally sound practices. The company's limited number of carefully selected suppliers ensures deep product knowledge and strong partnerships, allowing them to foster growth for both their business and their suppliers. Peter envisions the company as a legacy, emphasizing that while the textile business may not yield billionaires, it offers a fulfilling life of working with beautiful products and wonderful people. The Textile Company's approach reflects a blend of tradition, passion, collaboration, and a forward-thinking commitment to craft and sustainability in the world of interior textiles. #TextileCompany #InteriorDesign #Fabric #Wallcoverings #FamilyBusiness #Craftsmanship #Sustainability #LuxuryInteriors #AustralianDesign