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Fabric & Feel: Interview with Margate designer Beatrice Larkin
In an increasingly commoditized market flooded with generic products, establishing a unique brand identity and achieving customer recognition is paramount for designers. Textile designer Beatrice Larkin has successfully cultivated a signature style in her woven textiles, accessories, and interior products, making her designs instantly recognizable through their distinctive blurred edges and broken geometrics. Her creative process begins with hand-drawn sketches, where the initial marks, intricate patterns, and blotches made with pen and ink are deliberately preserved and celebrated in the finished fabric. This artistic approach ensures a consistent aesthetic across all her woven creations.
The production of Larkin's textiles involves a collaborative effort with skilled manufacturers in the north of England. She works with a Jacquard mill in Lancashire to produce small runs of her woven designs, which are then washed and finished in the Yorkshire Dales. The process begins in her Margate studio, where she engages in extensive mark-making with inks, envisioning the final product's scale and application. These initial designs are then refined using Photoshop to determine fabric repeats and optimal sizing. Currently, her collection features two primary materials: fine Merino wool, typically used for throws, cushions, and accessories, and recycled cotton, a more robust option suitable for cushions, upholstery, and curtains.
The Merino wool, known for its softness, is sourced from spinners in Italy. Similarly, the recycled cotton collection utilizes rejected fabrics from the clothing industry, which are re-spun and repurposed, also originating from Italian spinners. These yarns are then sent to the Lancashire mill for weaving, brushing, and washing before being returned to Larkin. The final products are then sewn either in her studio or by local Margate makers, though fabric is also available for purchase by the meter. This meticulous production chain underscores her commitment to quality and sustainable practices.
Beatrice Larkin's entrepreneurial journey recently received significant recognition with the Start Up Award as part of the Women’s Launch Lab Incubator 2024. As one of ten female entrepreneurs selected from hundreds of applicants, she participated in an intensive three-day program. This program provided access to expertise from innovative female entrepreneurs, growth and marketing strategists, and public-speaking coaches. The experience culminated in pitching her business to venture capitalists and angel investors, including notable figures such as Alison Cork MBE, Akshata Murty, and Judy Naake MBE. Larkin emphasized that this experience offered valuable perspective and a significant confidence boost.
Her business was founded in 2013, immediately following her Master's degree from the Royal College of Art, where her final collection garnered interest from prominent buyers like Heal’s. After graduating, she sought a British mill capable of producing her designs at scale. In 2015, Daylesford Organic provided funding for her initial fabric run, which was woven in the Cotswolds and Yorkshire. This collection was sold at Daylesford and served as a crucial launchpad for future manufacturing endeavors. By spring 2017, she began selling at Heal’s and unveiled her first collection at Clerkenwell Design Week.
Larkin's immersion in the fabrics industry was a natural progression, deeply influenced by her upbringing. Her father owned Gordon Larkin Fine Wallpaper & Fabric in Canterbury, and her mother was also a textile designer, ensuring a household constantly surrounded by fabrics. Childhood memories of accompanying her father to design shows in Chelsea Harbour and exploring fabric showrooms further solidified her connection to the industry. She attributes her entrepreneurial spirit and the ability to forge her own path to observing her parents' lifestyle as business owners.
Three years ago, Larkin relocated to Margate, drawn by its vibrant creative community. Since then, she has expanded her client base, with local stockists including Turner Contemporary and Harbour & Tide. Her brand, Beatrice Larkin, has also been embraced by renowned establishments such as Made, Studio Ashby, Conran and Partners, Tate Modern, and Piglet in Bed. Her journey reflects a blend of inherited passion, formal education, strategic partnerships, and a clear vision for her brand's aesthetic and ethical production.
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