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An Art Deco treasure is diminished
In the spring, patrons and neighbors of the Elite Cafe were concerned about the sale of the 35-year-old restaurant, fearing that its historic interior would be gutted. However, reassurance came with the news that San Francisco restaurateur Andy Chun, known for his sensitive 2014 remodel of Schroeder’s, was leading the buying group. Chun stated his intention to preserve much of the Art Deco interior, while offering a contemporary interpretation of the 1920s and 1930s decorative style. The Elite Cafe, located at 2049 Fillmore Street since 1981, resides in an Art Deco building originally commissioned for the Lincoln Grill in 1932. Building permits from September 1932 indicate an estimated cost of $5,000 for the structure, designed by Irvine & Ebbets in the “modernistic” style. The firm was noted for its Art Deco apartment buildings in San Francisco.
For the Lincoln Grill, Irvine & Ebbets incorporated colorful tiles, with black and yellow zigzag patterns above transom windows and as wainscoting along the facade. A raised zigzag cornice and a large, repeated diamond pattern etched in cement adorned the building's top. Stepped designs framed the Philippine mahogany front doors and main plate glass window. These exterior details, along with a reconfigured neon sign from the 1980s, largely remained intact until the recent remodel, which saw the zigzag and diamond patterns obscured by black paint.
Inside, the remodel, designed by BCV Architects, involved painting nearly all the wooden surfaces in shades of gray, including dark bluish slate (Benjamin Moore’s Polo Blue) for booths, the bar, and woodwork, and a charcoal color (Englewood Cliffs) for the walls. Chris von Eckartsberg, principal architect at BCV, explained that the booths had been previously painted and required refinishing. The design team aimed to maintain the cafe's essence while updating the color palette to a more luxurious collection of hues. The moldings on the high ceiling were highlighted in white, complementing a new retro-inspired white and black hexagon tile floor, which mirrored the original magnesite floor.
However, most Art Deco light fixtures, whether original or added through previous renovations, were removed. Curved Art Deco glass sconces in the booths were replaced by small brass lampshades, which were described as more suitable for bedside reading. While the previous sconces were not original to the 1930s, the replacements were seen as less appropriate for the cafe's style. The non-working bells to summon waiters were kept, but the rails for privacy curtains were over-polished. A press release announcing the reopening mentioned the use of marble and brass for working surfaces to acquire a graceful patina over time. Many existing fixtures with their own patina were discarded for new "faux" old elements. The previous ceiling lights, white milk glass in a skyscraper shape with era-appropriate fans, were replaced by cheaper-looking fixtures that unsuccessfully attempted a Deco style. A mahogany workstation separating the kitchen from the dining room was replaced by an out-of-place mesh-like charcoal drape.
The most significant change was the repainting of the back bar, which previously showcased the warmth of polished mahogany reflecting bottles and glasses. The new bar, along with the booth tabletops, was covered in white, veined Carrera marble, providing a more utilitarian but less comforting surface. The Elite Cafe, along with other historic San Francisco restaurants like Tadich Grill, Sam’s Grill, and the Far East Cafe, are among the few that retain elements of their original interiors. While Chun and his team preserved the restaurant's basic structure, largely by painting over existing elements, this approach is criticized as an easy solution for interior designers, leading to a space that has lost decades of warmth and character.
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