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Liberty presents two Futurism-inspired fabric collections
Liberty, traditionally known for its heritage floral textiles, has launched a new interiors and fashion fabrics collection named FuturLiberty. This collection, which debuted at Milan Design Week 2023, is deeply influenced by the early 20th-century art movements of Futurism and Vorticism, both of which celebrated the dynamic and rapidly evolving aspects of modern life. The creative direction for FuturLiberty was spearheaded by nonagenarian Italian designer Federico Forquet. His collaboration with Andrea Petochi, Liberty Fabrics’ managing director, began after the Covid pandemic, with Forquet challenging Liberty to look beyond its signature floral designs and explore how avant-garde artists responded to periods of crisis and social change.
Forquet specifically pointed towards the Futurists, an Italian art group from the early 20th century known for their admiration of machines, industry, power, and speed, expressed through abstract and dynamic forms. Under Forquet’s guidance, Liberty’s fabrics and product team, led by design director Mary-Ann Dunkley, delved into Futurist paintings to develop new patterns. Dunkley highlighted Forquet’s emphasis on geometrics and the importance of rhythm in each design. The design process involved extensive research into Liberty's own archives, spanning over 50,000 historic designs. The team found inspiration in the 1960s collections of former Liberty design director Bernard Nevill, particularly his Tango and Jazz ranges, which were inspired by Vorticism—the British art movement that evolved from Futurism. This discovery provided a valuable historical connection for Liberty, aligning the new collection with the brand’s past while embracing an avant-garde aesthetic.
After gathering a wealth of inspirational material, Dunkley’s team synthesized and adapted pictorial references to create repeatable fabric patterns. These patterns, characterized by a strong geometric language, were then applied to various fabrics in a diverse range of colorways. Forquet's emphasis on color and nature helped to infuse a playful quality into the designs, distinguishing them from the potentially more austere nature of their artistic inspirations.
To further contextualize the FuturLiberty collection, Liberty is hosting two exhibitions in Milan. One exhibition, at Museo del Novecento, showcases the original Futurist and Vorticist artworks that inspired the collection, alongside some of the new FuturLiberty interiors fabrics, demonstrating the translation of artistic inspiration into design. The second exhibition, at Palazzo Morando, explores Liberty’s historical trajectory from the Arts and Crafts movement through Nevill's 1960s designs to the contemporary FuturLiberty collection. This exhibition prominently features the fashion fabrics of the new collection in an immersive installation. Both exhibitions were developed in collaboration with Ester Coen, a renowned art historian, who underscores the exhibitions’ aim to highlight the dialogue between Futurism and Vorticism and to show how FuturLiberty embodies the energy and commitment of avant-garde art towards a valuable future.
In conjunction with Milan Design Week, Liberty is also launching a book about the FuturLiberty project, published by Thames & Hudson, which will delve deeper into the interplay between art and design. Andrea Petochi views this initiative as a return to Liberty's artistic roots, fostering a dialogue between society and creativity. As Liberty approaches its 150th anniversary in 2025, the FuturLiberty collection positions the brand as both an innovator and a disruptor, grounded in its rich tradition.
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