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À La Izba and Faux Stone: Moscow's Age of Wooden Architecture
This article explores the enduring legacy of wooden architecture in Moscow, focusing on a selection of historically significant buildings that have survived despite fires, changing architectural trends, and urban development. It draws insights from a two-volume set titled _Wooden Russia: A Glance Back From the 21st Century_, a collaborative effort by the Museum of Architecture and Kuchkovo Pole publishing house, which delves into the early periods of Russian architecture, open-air museums, religious and traditional practices, as well as neo-Russian style, club architecture, Soviet intelligentsia dachas, and modern park buildings.
Moscow, until the early seventeenth century, was predominantly a wooden city. Even after devastating fires, the tradition of wooden construction persisted due to its affordability, speed, and perceived comfort. Wealthy owners of wooden houses often mimicked the dominant classicism style by plastering and painting wooden columns to resemble stone, a technique evident in the surviving eighteenth-century palaces of Kuskovo and Ostankino, owned by the Sheremetev family. The Ostankino Palace, in particular, showcases this imitation, with its middle section entirely constructed of wood, designed to appear as solid stone.
Muravyov-Apostols’ Mansion stands out as a successful restoration project. Originally a one-story building on a stone basement, it was reconfigured in 1804 with a prominent six-column Corinthian portico. The mansion's facade was plastered to emulate stone, featuring rustication and large bas-reliefs depicting mythological scenes. After significant deterioration in the late twentieth century, it underwent extensive restoration in the early 2000s, funded by Christopher Muravyov-Apostol, a distant relative. The restoration team meticulously replaced rotten logs and preserved the original layout, architectural décor, antique fireplaces, and even fragments of original wallpaper. Today, it operates as the Muravyov-Apostol House Museum.
Sytin’s House, built in 1806, is one of the rare wooden structures that survived the Great Moscow Fire of 1812 with its pre-fire appearance intact. This small, classical-style house features a four-column portico and a triangular pediment. Unlike many others, it was never plastered, with paint applied directly to the battened logs. Moscow's climate poses challenges for plaster-and-wood combinations, and despite a restoration in the 1980s, Sytin's House is currently in poor condition. During the Empire style period, even small manors like Sytin’s House featured high-ceilinged enfilades along the main façade, with bedrooms typically located on entresols facing the inner yard.
Following the 1812 fire, the Commission for Moscow Buildings was established to regulate and standardize new constructions, ensuring main facades faced the street and followed approved designs. Shteingel’s (Lopatin’s) House, built in 1816, is an example of a mansion that retained its individuality within these regulations. Its composition centers around a stepped attic and a four-column portico with arches adorned with griffin bas-reliefs, a Moscow-specific tradition. The house was once home to Vladimir Shteingel, an 1812 War veteran and Freemason, and later hosted prominent figures like Ivan Turgenev’s uncle and the Lopatin family, whose 'Lopatin Wednesdays' were attended by literary and artistic luminaries. The restored building now houses the Architecture Department of the Russian Academy of Arts, featuring an authentic early eighteenth-century fireplace and a secret doorway.
Palibin’s House, rebuilt in 1847 after the 1812 fires, directly painted over its battened wood exterior, distinguishing it from faux stone counterparts. Despite its modest size, its façade is highly expressive, adorned with avant-corps, meander patterns, and reliefs depicting Medusa Gorgon, winged horses, and lit torches. It exemplifies a mezzanine house, a classic architectural type with an added supported floor. Thanks to its use by a restoration workshop during the Soviet era, the house has been well-preserved, retaining its original façade and rare fragments of hand-painted Empire style wallpaper.
Vasily Pushkin Museum, built in 1819, was the residence of Alexander Pushkin’s uncle, Vasily Pushkin, a renowned poet. This wooden house on a stone basement represents a standard facade design offered by the Commission for Moscow Buildings. Its latest restoration returned it to its original appearance and it now serves as the Vasily Pushkin House Museum.
Ivan Turgenev’s House, built in 1819, served as the backdrop for events in Turgenev’s short story _Mumu_. A typical post-1812 Empire style house, it features a six-column portico with paired outer columns. After decades of communal living, large-scale restoration began in 2015 to transform it into the Turgenev House Museum.
Pogodin’s Izba, built in 1856 by architect Nikolai Nikitin, is a pioneering example of integrating Russian national style into urban architecture outside of churches. Designed with historian Mikhail Pogodin, its small two-story structure mimics traditional countryside _izbas_ with festive shutters and carved decorative elements. Although it appears as a traditional izba, it served as a meeting place for scholars and public figures. Today, it houses a construction company office.
Porokhovshchikov’s House, built in 1872 by Andrei Gun with wood carving by Igor Kolpakov, was recognized at the 1873 World Expo for its application of national architecture. It exaggerates architectural and decorative features, with carved elements resembling Russian traditional patterns, despite its Classicist symmetry. The house was returned to a private owner under Mayor Luzhkov.
Vasnetsov House Museum, built in 1893 with architects Vasily Bashkirov and Viktor Vasnetsov, represents a precursor to the neo-Russian architectural style of the early 20th century. Moving beyond 17th-century national architecture, Vasnetsov drew inspiration from ancient Novgorod and Pskov. His own house, a stone building augmented with a wooden tower featuring a barrel roof and elements of a _svetelka_, embodies this free interpretation of forms, creating an epic, fairytale-like image. The tower, serving as his workshop, was adorned with custom wooden furniture and a theatrical, polychromic interior. The workshop became part of the museum opened in the house in 1953.
These surviving wooden structures offer a glimpse into Moscow's architectural evolution, demonstrating adaptation, stylistic imitation, and the emergence of distinct national styles over centuries.
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