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Revamp Your Exterior with Our How-to Guide to Installing Siding Shingles
This article provides a comprehensive, step-by-step guide for installing cedar shake siding, a project categorized as advanced in skill level and taking approximately four days to complete. It begins by highlighting the aesthetic appeal of cedar shake siding, often associated with coastal architecture, and emphasizes that the effort involved in its installation is rewarded with a rich, textured look that enhances a home's curb appeal over time. Before commencing the installation, the article stresses the importance of ensuring the house's sheathing is made from appropriate materials like boards, plywood, or oriented strand board (OSB). Key considerations for material estimation include the triple coverage requirement, meaning three layers of shingles covering the wall, and the recommended exposure for each shingle being slightly less than one-third of its total length. For instance, 16-inch shingles should have about five-inch exposures. While a slight ⅛-inch gap between shingles is sometimes recommended due to potential swelling, it's generally deemed unnecessary if the shingles are not completely dried out, as they will naturally shrink slightly post-installation.
The installation process begins with preparing the exterior walls by applying building wrap for a water-resistant barrier and self-adhesive flashing tape around corners, windows, and doors to prevent moisture and air intrusion. Exterior trim is then installed around windows and doors, with an option to weave shingles at outside corners, though installing corner trim first is presented as a more typical approach. A story pole or swing-stick method is used to accurately lay out shingle courses, ensuring consistent spacing and proper alignment with architectural features. Inside corner trim pieces, typically 1x1 boards from 5/4 cedar decking, are installed next, providing sufficient room for caulking. The installation of the first starter-course piece commences at an exterior corner, overlapping by about one inch and secured with two nails or staples. Less expensive, lower-grade shingles can be used for this initial course. Subsequent pieces are butted against each other, with excess material trimmed using a utility knife. A block plane or Surform plane is used to smooth edges, particularly at corners.
To maintain even courses, a jig made from 1x4 and 1x2 boards is recommended for holding planks in place and ensuring accurate overlap. The starter course itself consists of two layers of shingles, with the second layer extending about ½-inch longer than the first and its joints offset by at least 1-½ inches from the bottom layer's joints. For faster installation, pneumatic nailers or staplers are suggested, with staplers being preferred to prevent shingle splitting. Galvanized nails or staples are suitable for most areas, but stainless-steel options are advised where fasteners will be visible. The guide then details building up exterior and interior corners, using an exposure guide for consistency. As work progresses, chalk lines are used to mark subsequent courses, with shingle joints consistently offset from the row below. Specific instructions are provided for working around windows, doors, and spigots, which involve notch-cutting shingles, adding backing strips above openings, and drilling holes for fixtures, followed by caulking. Finally, installation along gables requires using a T-bevel to determine cutting angles, and roof flashing is installed along the roofline before the final shingles are placed. The entire project concludes with applying caulk to all trim joints and then sealing or priming the cedar shake siding for longevity and aesthetic finish.
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