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Henry Holland is shaking up the world of fabrics - find out how…
Henry Holland, known for his rebellious fashion designs and later successful ceramic work, is venturing into textile design with his first collection of fabrics and wallpapers for Harlequin. This new collection represents a significant shift from his previous punk-inspired fashion, offering a more sophisticated aesthetic while retaining a sense of boldness. The color palette draws largely from his ceramic work, featuring natural tones such as sage, terracotta, brown, and blue. The patterns are either inspired by the clay used in his ceramics or carefully selected from Harlequin’s extensive archive, designed to blend elegantly and subtly. The aim is to introduce a fresh, elevated style into British home decorating.
The development of this extensive collection spanned approximately 18 months, originating from a meeting between Holland and Lisa Montague, CEO of Sanderson Design Group, which owns Harlequin. Their existing relationship, stemming from Montague's previous roles at Mulberry and Loewe where she worked with Holland and his husband, facilitated this collaboration. Holland expressed enthusiasm for the project, including factory tours and engaging with the design team in Loughborough.
The collection is far from a small-scale entry into the interiors market. It encompasses nine wallpapers, six upholstery weaves, twelve drapery weights, and moiré fabric available in fifteen shades. Claire Vallis, Sanderson Design Group’s design director, noted that the initial plan was for a more limited collection, but the creative flow between Holland and the team led to its significant expansion. Holland's personal experiences and memories heavily influenced the designs, such as the moiré fabric, which he desired due to its evocative nature, reminiscent of a mint-green Casely-Hayford suit he wore for his wedding and his parents' home decor from his childhood. He describes moiré as a fabric that, despite being plain, offers pattern, color, texture, and depth.
Holland also drew inspiration from Harlequin’s archive, but often through the lens of his own past. For instance, a print reminding him of a beloved wallpaper from his mother’s 18th-century château in France, featuring a weeping willow and Yves Klein blue berries, was reinterpreted and named ‘Ludaix’ after the château. Other autobiographical elements include checks named ‘Blenets’ after his mother's first house in France, inspired by the duck-egg blue of its shutters, and designs named after roads he or his partner have lived on, as a form of 'manifestation'.
While Holland aimed to avoid directly reinterpreting his ceramic designs, given his strong association with the layered nerikomi effect, elements inspired by his ceramics are present. These include 'Marble', a printed strié linen; 'Marble Wave', an embroidery; and 'Marble Tapestry', a complex appliquéed bouclé, which he has used to upholster his own bed. His London home serves as a showcase for the collection, with his bedroom featuring moiré on the walls and drapes in a verdant green, creating an immersive color wash. The 'Marble Tapestry' on his bed, though based on clay slabs, evokes woodgrain and complements the moiré's texture. Checks are used on sheers and to line a vintage cabinet, while bouclé covers two tub chairs. His adjoining dressing room features an ambitious design with pale-pink moiré curtains and bespoke wardrobes upholstered in geometric ombré ‘Southborough’ velvet and lined with pink moiré.
The collaboration with Harlequin has reignited Holland's interest in collaborative work, which has been a constant throughout his diverse career. He credits the Harlequin design team for their expertise and for educating him on aspects like wallpaper repeats, print directions, and scaling. Claire Vallis lauded Holland's keen eye for distinctive designs that capture contemporary trends, expressing optimism that this collection marks just the beginning of his impact in the design world.
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