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Hav & Mar restaurant is a new temple for Black arts and culture in New York
Hav & Mar, a new art-focused seafood restaurant in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood, is a collaboration between chef Marcus Samuelsson and artist Derrick Adams. The restaurant is envisioned as a cultural hub, celebrating Black arts and heritage through its culinary offerings and interior design. Samuelsson, who has Ethiopian and Swedish roots, partnered with Adams and Thelma Golden, director and chief curator of The Studio Museum in Harlem, to create a space that reflects and restores a sense of community, especially after the pandemic. The restaurant's name, Hav & Mar, combines the Swedish word for 'ocean' and the Aramaic word for 'honey,' symbolizing Samuelsson's diverse background and the influence of African traditions in contemporary Black cuisine.
The menu, helmed by executive chef Rose Noël, emphasizes sustainably sourced seafood. Notable dishes include Swediopian, a Berbere-cured salmon with mustard-seed caviar and buckthorn; Black Mermaid Rice, featuring Haitian black djon djon mushrooms, crab, lobster, and green peas; and Seaside Waffle, topped with rock shrimp and uni butter. Samuelsson describes Hav & Mar as an expression of "Black joy and excellence," with each team member contributing their heritage and creativity to the food and beverages. The interior design, crafted by Atelier Zébulon Perron, blends the rich, warm tones of Ethiopia with Swedish minimalist aesthetics, creating an immersive dining experience.
A central feature of Hav & Mar's artistic identity is Derrick Adams’ site-specific installation, "We Are From the Water Too." This series of Black mermaids and vibrant patterns adorns the restaurant's walls, providing a narrative depth to the space. Adams' research for the project delved into the historical connections between Black culture and seafood, examining archival images of Black people working in various seafood industries, such as deshelling crabs and oyster shucking in New York. This historical exploration informed a contemporary artistic expression that avoids literal depictions but aims to convey the enduring connection to the past.
Adams drew inspiration from the mythology of mermaids and water goddesses across African and Haitian cultures, as well as other traditions. He noted the freedom inherent in these narratives, which often predate and offer an alternative to narratives of the Atlantic slave trade. For Adams, the mermaid symbolizes the "mystery, the freedom of fantasy, and their freedom of looking at Blackness in a particular way that is not defined by anything other than itself." He deliberately chose the mermaid as a beacon to create an opulent and textured atmosphere that draws people in, fostering imagination beyond mere service.
Adams' work challenges the common perception that Blackness is solely rooted in the earth, emphasizing a connection to water and its cultivation. He aims to present an empowering and fortifying view of Blackness, independent of comparative frameworks, thereby offering an alternative perspective on identity and heritage. The restaurant thus serves as both a culinary destination and a significant cultural statement.
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