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From the Archive: Tour Star Restaurateur Keith McNally’s Charming Martha’s Vineyard Farm
This article explores restaurateur Keith McNally's Martha's Vineyard farm, detailing his approach to creating a home that feels authentic and lived-in rather than overly designed. McNally, known for his success in the New York City restaurant scene with establishments like The Odeon and Café Luxembourg, purchased Windy Gates Farm in Chilmark in 1991. The property spans four acres and serves as a summer retreat for McNally, his wife Alina, and their five children, providing a stark contrast to their urban life.
Unlike many vacationers on Martha's Vineyard who engage in typical maritime activities, McNally dedicates his summers to working the land. His farm is home to various animals, including Berkshire, Tamworth, and Gloucester Old Spot pigs, goats, sheep, lambs, and free-range chickens and ducks. This focus on farming stems from McNally's desire to produce his own food, a need he developed after being constantly surrounded by food consumption in his restaurant career. He also enjoys cooking extensively for his family and occasional dinner parties, even venturing into making his own goat cheese.
McNally's connection to Martha's Vineyard began unexpectedly in 1976. After arriving in New York from London with aspirations of filmmaking, he spontaneously altered his travel plans from Nantucket to Martha's Vineyard, drawn by the island's diverse ferry passengers. He spent that summer exploring the island by bicycle, often sleeping on the beach or in youth hostels, establishing an early, informal connection to the place.
When it came to renovating Windy Gates Farm, McNally applied the same meticulous, anthropological approach he used for his restaurant designs, which were renowned for their authentic, almost theatrical ambiance. He enlisted craftsmen and electricians from his restaurant projects, alongside local talent, to ensure the cedar-shingled farmhouse appeared timeless and untouched. This renovation process was particularly therapeutic for McNally, who was undergoing a divorce at the time. His primary goal was to avoid a 'designed or polished' look, a task he noted required significant effort.
The renovation involved customized adjustments, such as cutting doorframes to fit antique flea-market doors, rather than the reverse. Many of the floors and some furniture pieces were crafted from reclaimed, aged pine. The interior design reflects a rustic, simple aesthetic, with minimal decoration focusing on essentials. Art is scarce, limited to a few paintings by his late father-in-law, Albert Johnson, vintage sconces from the Brimfield market, and an Audubon Society poster. Signature McNally design elements are present, including wainscoting, wide-plank floors, tea-stained walls, and an L-shaped banquette in the kitchen, perfect for family gatherings. Furniture, including farm tables, French bistro chairs, rattan sofas, and rope beds, were sourced from local and French flea markets. A children's room features a berth-like wooden bed with a ship's helm wheel as a headboard, referencing the island's maritime heritage.
The farm's self-sufficiency is a cornerstone of the McNallys' summer life. They enjoy their own bacon and ham from the pigs, and cultivate apples, peaches, plums, cherries, and a variety of berries from their orchards and gardens. The extensive vegetable garden yields fresh asparagus, Sun Gold tomatoes, cucumbers, okra, peppers, fennel, and haricots verts, contributing to a completely self-contained lifestyle where going out for food is rarely necessary. This lifestyle provides an ideal escape from the demands of city life, emphasizing a connection to nature and sustainable living.
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