Bungalow by Middle Brow Is an Ode to the Art of Fermentation

The blog post highlights Bungalow by Middle Brow, a multifaceted restaurant, brewery, winery, and bakery located in Logan Square, Chicago. The establishment is founded on the passion for fermentation of Pete Ternes and his business partners. Ternes, originally a law graduate, transitioned to brewing about 15 years ago, and this passion has expanded into a complex that offers a variety of fermented products. Middle Brow originated in 2011 as a contract brewery with a strong community focus, initially channeling much of its profits to charity. In 2019, the business found a permanent home, allowing for the expansion of its offerings and the full realization of its fermentation-driven vision. While direct charity donations have been scaled back, the commitment to local investment has intensified, with a focus on supporting local farmers, customers, and employees. This commitment is evident in their sourcing practices, as all produce, grain, flour, and hops are obtained from nearby Illinois, Michigan, Indiana, and Wisconsin. Bungalow by Middle Brow operates as an all-day establishment. Mornings feature coffee and baked goods, including sourdough doughnuts on weekends. By lunchtime and dinner, the space transforms into a pizzeria, brewery, and winery. The interior, characterized by high industrial ceilings and rustic elements like circular mirrors, an old piano, and mismatched furniture, evokes a Midwestern aesthetic. Brewery barrels are integrated into the dining space, and a marble-topped bar anchors the room, which also houses the beer taps and pizza oven. Fermentation is the core principle guiding all aspects of Middle Brow's operations, leading to a diverse range of products. The day begins with sweet breakfast items like cinnamon rolls infused with orange and tonka bean. By 11 a.m., sourdough pizzas with various toppings, including a Neapolitan slice with oregano, yuzu oil, and red sauce, become available. During happy hour, sourdough bread plates with accompaniments like ‘nduja butter or sunflower tahini dip are served. Evening offerings include seasonal salads and pizzas featuring local ingredients such as mushrooms, tatsoi, and house-made sausage. These can be paired with unique beverages like "You," a double-barrel aged saison with raspberries, or "Boat," a skin-contact Riesling wine. The founders' interest in fermentation and yeast was driven by a desire to explore flavors beyond conventional IPAs and malty beers, which were popular trends in the mid-to-late 2000s. They experimented with various yeast strains, allowing their beers to ferment spontaneously with wild yeast and bacteria cultures. This experimental approach led to the creation of wild beers, known for their diverse and sometimes unpredictable aromas and flavors. Initially, they faced resistance to brewing wild beers in shared spaces due to concerns about contamination, sometimes having to brew batches discreetly. Once they established their own facility, they began to freely experiment, even capturing yeast from their garden. A constant beer on tap, "Neighborhood," is the culmination of 15 years of experimental brewing, utilizing grains from central Indiana, hops from Michigan, and Michigan water, representing a true farm-to-glass approach. The winery aspect of Middle Brow further emphasizes its connection to local agriculture. Grapes are sourced from Michigan farms, with the team actively participating in the harvest. Winemaking methods are minimally interventionist, involving natural pressing and fermentation, with only a small amount of sulfur added for stabilization before packaging. This hands-off approach results in hazy wines rich with sediment. The cooler climate of Michigan's shore contributes to a shorter growing season, producing wines with a lighter body and crisp acidity, ideal for pairing with pizza. The expertise in fermentation also extends to their sourdough pizza, a natural progression from Ternes's hobbyist sourdough baking. The dough-making process involves wild fermentation, with an obsessive attention to detail and continuous adjustments to recipes and techniques. The flour is sourced from Meadowlark Mill, which provides 100% identity-preserved grains, ensuring traceability to specific local farmers. This dedication to quality ingredients and traditional methods results in a distinctively local and flavorful pizza with an airy, crisp, and slightly tangy crust. #Fermentation #Brewery #Winery #SourdoughPizza #LocalIngredients #ChicagoRestaurants #LoganSquare #CraftBeer #NaturalWine #Fermentation #Brewery #Winery #SourdoughPizza #LocalIngredients #ChicagoRestaurants #LoganSquare #CraftBeer #NaturalWine