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These designers are bringing a 'lost' African art form to an entirely new audience
The article explores the collaboration between designers Stephen Burks and Malika Leiper of Stephen Burks Man Made, and the Italian wood veneer company Alpi, to translate the intricate patterns of Kuba cloth into a contemporary design product. Kuba cloth, a raffia textile handcrafted by the Kuba people of the Democratic Republic of Congo, originated in the 17th century and served as a significant status symbol among the ruling class. While it was once thought that the tradition of Kuba cloth declined after the kingdom's fall due to internal rebellions and colonization, Burks and Leiper discovered during a visit to Kinshasa that this ancient art form is, in fact, thriving among a new generation of artists and makers in villages.
Burks clarifies that the perception of Kuba cloth as a 'dying artform' is a Western misconception, often influenced by the commodification of 'prestige cloths.' His and Leiper's practice, Stephen Burks Man Made, is dedicated to demonstrating the current vitality of Kuba art, emphasizing that for Kuba to have a future, it must have a present. Their efforts include producing a documentary, curating an exhibition in Japan, and designing the scenography for an upcoming show at the Mint Museum in Charlotte, North Carolina, all centered on their research into Kuba cloth.
A pivotal project in their endeavor is the collaboration with Alpi, a company established in 1919 and renowned for its designer collaborations with figures such as Ettore Sottsass, Alessandro Mendini, Konstantin Grcic, Patricia Urquiola, and Ron Arad. Alpi's president, Vittorio Alpi, expresses a passion for experimentation and invites designers to create unique pieces that push the boundaries of industrial production, granting three-dimensionality to Alpi surfaces.
At Design Miami 2025, Burks and Leiper unveiled their collection of sculptural furnishings, titled 'Lost Cloth Object,' which translates the geometric patterns of traditional Kuba textiles. This collection, presented as part of the fair’s 2.0 section curated by Glenn Adamson, serves as a conceptual starting point for a commercial veneer that will be developed with Alpi. Burks highlights that their practice consistently investigates the intersection of craft, community, and industry.
The design process involved creating a Kuba-inspired motif using thousands of laser-thin sheets of FSC-certified poplar veneer, a technique that embodies both repetition and variation, mirroring the inherent qualities of Kuba cloth. Leiper explains that each motif in Kuba cloth carries social meaning, indicating the maker or wearer, and often mimics natural shapes, acting as a language in itself. The use of variegated veneers from Alpi’s Legacy Collection adds another layer of significance, as these veneers replicate the appearance of endangered wood species like ebony, teak, rosewood, and zebrawood, without contributing to deforestation. Vittorio Alpi notes that this collection allows for the reproduction of rare woods sustainably.
The 'Lost Cloth Object' collection features a curved platform, round stools, and a circular partition with integrated shelving, designed to evoke both Alpi’s postmodern collaborative tradition and the sacred, ceremonial contexts in which Kuba cloth is traditionally used. While the specific sculptural objects will not be mass-produced, the 'Lost Cloth Object' pattern is intended for further development as a commercial veneer. Burks concludes that the project honors the traditions of the Kuba Kingdom by combining African patterns with natural wood in a sculptural, modern application, connecting to Alpi's legacy of surface design.
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