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The dank and magical house where Colin McCahon lived

This article details a bus tour experience in Auckland, marking the centenary of New Zealand artist Colin McCahon's birth. The tour, named 'McCahon's Auckland,' included a visit to the McCahon House Museum in Titirangi, the first home owned by McCahon and his wife, Anne Hamblett. The author recounts the journey, emphasizing the contrast between the organized tour and McCahon's daily commute in the 1950s. McCahon, then working at the Auckland City Art Gallery, would travel by bus for nearly an hour and a half, followed by a two-kilometer walk along unlit gravel roads to his home near French Bay. This commute, combined with a demanding job and home projects, characterized his intensely productive years in Titirangi, despite the family's austere living conditions. The article provides historical context about Colin McCahon's life, from his birth after World War I, his art education in Dunedin, and his marriage to Anne Hamblett in 1942. It highlights the challenges they faced, including four children, seasonal work, and frequent relocations. Anne Hamblett, an artist herself, largely set aside her career to raise their children and support the family, making money from illustration work while McCahon's career developed. The McCahons moved to Auckland in 1953, with Colin initially working as a cleaner and temporary attendant at the art gallery before securing a permanent position. Their home at 67 Otitori Bay Road was chosen for its affordability; it was a small bach, described as 'dank' and 'tiny,' nestled in a gully of bush with an outdoor toilet. The bus tour was guided by curator Ron Brownson, who shared art-related information, and former mayor Sir Bob Harvey, who provided historical insights and local anecdotes. Sir Bob painted a picture of 1950s Auckland, with its wooden-floored buses, smoking passengers, and early closing times for pubs. He described McCahon's routine of drinking cheap sherry after work and the long journey home, often arriving late at night to an unlit road. The tour passed significant landmarks that held relevance to McCahon's life and art, including St Joseph’s Catholic Church in Grey Lynn with its Milan Mrkusich stained-glass windows, and the brick police station in New Lynn. Sir Bob also shared personal stories about the area's history and his childhood. The visit to the McCahon House Museum revealed the Spartan living conditions, including tiny rooms and children's sleeping arrangements in bunks open to the elements, which sometimes horrified tour-goers. The author notes the significant improvements and additions McCahon made to the house. The artist residency studio on the property, in stark contrast, is described as spacious and modern, highlighting the difference in conditions. The tour also included a nature walk, referencing specific McCahon paintings inspired by the landscape. The author reflects on her first encounter with a McCahon painting, 'Here I Give Thanks to Mondrian,' and its impact on her teenage consciousness. The article concludes with a suggestion for more 'Art Bus' trips to share McCahon's legacy and the unique history of his home with a wider audience, emphasizing that great things can emerge from humble beginnings. #ColinMcCahon #McCahonHouseMuseum #AucklandArt #NewZealandArtHistory #Titirangi #ArtTour #ArtistResidency #HistoricalHomes #ColinMcCahon #McCahonHouseMuseum #AucklandArt #NewZealandArtHistory #Titirangi #ArtTour #ArtistResidency #HistoricalHomes
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