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‘Scripted’ is a new book that explores the dark side of beauty photography
Photographer Alex Black's debut monograph, *Scripted*, delves into the complex relationship between beauty photography and societal perceptions, utilizing the visual language of commercial advertising to create a "glossy gothic" aesthetic. Black, a renowned fashion and beauty photographer who has contributed to various magazines and worked with prominent brands like Maison Margiela, Diesel, Tom Ford, and Pat McGrath, leverages her deep understanding of advertising psychology to subvert conventional beauty standards. The book is presented as an opportunity for Black to explore the mechanics of photography and desire on her own terms, moving beyond the commercial imperatives of publications and brands.
Black's artistic approach in *Scripted* is centered on deconstructing visual codes to understand what images communicate. She aims to create a duality within her work, juxtaposing high and low, minimalist and decadent, and familiar with foreign elements. This creates a space for critical reflection on how images influence our understanding of beauty. The book features high-gloss images that initially attract the viewer but then challenge them with unconventional subjects. Examples include extensively retouched faces that resemble plastic, a close-up of glossy yellow lips, and a perfectly groomed face with frizzy hair, appearing disembodied in a dark void. These images collectively present a distorted yet compelling vision of beauty.
A significant element of *Scripted* is the inclusion of grids that display the same image with subtle yet impactful alterations. One such grid illustrates a red painted nail, showcasing familiar manicure shapes like square and taloned, alongside bizarre ones such as a diagonal line and saw-like spikes. This juxtaposition renders the act of nail painting as a peculiar ritual, highlighting the uncanniness of beauty practices. Another series of six images features an AI-generated face, impeccably perfect and adorned with retro makeup, reminiscent of Barbie dolls. However, its hair is styled into impossible, futuristic shapes, making it appear both old-fashioned and hyper-modern. This blend of eras and styles further emphasizes Black's theme of duality and subversion.
Black explains that her project examines how identity functions as a "script" constructed piece by piece, with beauty playing a significant role in this narrative. She suggests that personal choices, such as hair dye, often tap into commercially propagated ideals rather than being purely individual expressions. *Scripted* aims to reflect this complex interplay. Black intentionally portrays the beauty process through objects and remnants that evoke a sense of harshness, even torture. This approach contrasts the inherent discomfort of beauty rituals, like waxing and hair cutting—described by Black as "quite a violent act"—with the softness and lushness typically promoted in advertising. The objective is to create a body of work that simultaneously holds both these contrasting truths.
The book effectively captures this duality, exemplified by an image of a long nail adorned with various beauty detritus, such as a smear of cream and a piece of a fake eyelash. This stylized representation of rummaging through a beauty bag and getting messy serves to illustrate that the concepts of "beautiful" and "grotesque" can be synonymous. *Scripted* maintains the visual appeal of aspirational imagery while distorting it into new forms. The resulting effect is compared to a carnival mirror, reflecting a strange yet profoundly compelling image that invites viewers to reconsider their perceptions of beauty. The book, priced at €70, is available through alexblackstudio.com.
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