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Older’s Blade Runner-inspired furniture has an agenda

Older, a design brand founded by Letizia Caramia and Morten Thuesen, initially focused on revolutionizing hospitality uniforms. The duo, who met at Alexander McQueen, launched Older in 2013 to address what they perceived as a lack of ideology, sustainability, and imagination in the fashion industry. Their unique approach blended their interests in architecture, gastronomy, and wine, leading them to create utilitarian yet stylish uniforms. Older quickly gained recognition for its asymmetric silhouettes, high-quality bespoke bio-cotton fabrics, and meticulous attention to functional details like fastenings and pockets, all while prioritizing sustainability in their design and production processes. Over the years, Older has secured commissions from prominent clients, including Restaurant 108 in Copenhagen, Copenhagen Contemporary, Tate Modern, the Snøhetta-designed Under restaurant, and Massimo Bottura’s Refettorio. A significant project involved designing uniforms and accompanying objects for Olafur Eliasson’s Fjordenhus in Vejle, Denmark. This collaboration, which included textile sculptures and specially engineered napkins, profoundly influenced Caramia and Thuesen, inspiring them to expand their creative scope beyond uniforms. Their recent endeavor is "Wide Eye," a debut furniture and objects collection developed in collaboration with Danish artist Alexander Vinther. The collection reflects the designers' passion for radical Italian movements, such as those of Superstudio and Archizoom, the postmodern aesthetics of Afra and Tobia Scarpa, Carlo Mollino’s craftsmanship, and the Gesamtkunstwerk concepts of Joe and Gianni Colombo. Milanese curator Valentina Ciuffi, known for her work with Nilufar and Alcova, assisted in presenting the collection through an exhibition and a book. Ciuffi lauded Older’s profound understanding of the fashion system, their detached approach from its fast pace, and their impressive architectural sensibilities, noting how they conceptualize garments as wearable architecture. With "Wide Eye," Caramia and Thuesen reversed their initial design philosophy, transforming uniform concepts into sculptural and functional furniture pieces. The collection subtly incorporates references to the human body and clothing. For example, the "Wide Eye" sofa is upholstered in the same washable Limonta nylon fabric used for their uniforms, while the "Zhora" chair features a PVC covering reminiscent of a character from *Blade Runner*. Other pieces, like the "Papi" table, subtly allude to anatomical forms. The designers exhibit a deep commitment to craftsmanship, partnering with emerging artisans like Tuscany-based Francesco Basini Gazzi for their marble pieces and a manufacturer previously associated with Tobia Scarpa for their sofa. They recently relocated from Paris to Milan, establishing a hybrid live-work space that will serve as the backdrop for the "Wide Eye" collection's launch on September 29th. The launch will feature a set designed by curator Joseph Grima, emphasizing raw materials to highlight the furniture's forms. The "Wide Eye" collection also carries a significant pro-European message. Its title is derived from the ancient Greek etymology of "Europe," and a nylon band on the sofa displays the slogan "Wide Eye Wake Up." This political agenda was influenced by the rise of populist parties in the 2019 European elections, prompting the designers to create furniture that advocates for a tolerant, open, and united Europe, aiming to infuse their designs with a conscious and revolutionary spirit. #FurnitureDesign #UniformDesign #SustainableDesign #ItalianRadicals #BladeRunnerInspired #EuropeanArtisanship #MilanDesign #PoliticalDesign #TextileInnovation #FurnitureDesign #UniformDesign #SustainableDesign #ItalianRadicals #BladeRunnerInspired #EuropeanArtisanship #MilanDesign #PoliticalDesign #TextileInnovation
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