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Artist Sophia Al-Maria on her fairytale video installation for Miu Miu’s Paris show
The article explores Qatari-American artist Sophia Al-Maria’s video installation, \"Gravity & Grace,\" which served as the backdrop for Miu Miu’s S/S 2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week. The artist drew inspiration from the Palais d'Iéna, a classical brutalist building by Auguste Perret, which has been Miu Miu’s show venue for several years. Al-Maria aimed to transform the rationalist structure into a surreal, multi-dimensional space, enhancing the audience's viewing experience of the show.
Al-Maria's involvement with Miu Miu began after her work, \"The Future Was Desert,\" was exhibited at Fondazione Prada’s Venice outpost in 2023. This film explored themes of environmental devastation, fossil-fuel dependency, and geopolitical complexities within the Gulf Region, featuring 'delirious, post-apocalyptic dreamscapes.' This previous work established a shared interest with Mrs. Prada in human history and deep time, questioning what is real versus what is not. This connection led to her current collaboration, aiming to reflect this shared sensibility in the S/S 2024 show's visual narrative.
Her latest film, \"Gravity & Grace,\" is conceptualized as an old fairytale with a new twist, depicting the 'ending of the world' through the dynamic interplay of a court jester and a royal guard. Both roles are played by stuntwoman Ayesha Hussain, who engages in a sword and crossbow battle over conflicting perspectives on whether life is a tragedy or a comedy. The film’s soundtrack features an original piece by the Melbourne-based band Divide and Dissolve, with arrangements by Asma Maaroof, Daniel Pineda, and Joshua Fay, which complements the surreal and dramatic atmosphere of the visual art.
The installation, displayed on screens interspersed among the Palais’ columns, featured a moody, cloud-filled sky before the show, transitioning to images of a samurai sword-wielding protagonist and futuristic versions of the building's pillars during the show. The accompanying notes characterized the film’s setting as \"a landscape of technological ruins, an imaginary history invented inside the Palais d’Iéna.\" This description aligns with Al-Maria’s intent to create a surreal extension of the classical brutalist architecture, blurring the lines between reality and imagination.
Despite not having seen the full collection prior to creating the film, Al-Maria noted a \"serendipitous symmetry\" between her work and Mrs. Prada’s S/S 2024 collection. The collection itself explored an \"explosion, redressing\" of contemporary notions of beauty, seeking a \"radical expansion, a rich plurality.\" It combined glamour with everyday elements, such as a golden brocade dress over a sweater and shirt, or a lace petticoat with a blazer, alongside Miu Miu’s signature abbreviated mini skirts and exposed logoed waistbands. Al-Maria noted that the collection felt like an embodiment of a sensation she had felt in the air around the present moment, aligning with her film's themes of questioning reality and embracing the surreal in the quotidian.
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