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Kevin’s Kitchen Is a Hit for Hong Kong-Style Roast Meats and Other Dishes
Kevin's Kitchen, a new Hong Kong-style restaurant on Beretania Street next to Times Supermarket, has garnered attention from the Hawai‘i Chinese Dinner Society (HICDS) for its authentic cuisine. The restaurant is owned by Kevin Li, whose close friend and mentor, Kevin Lee, a former chef at Harbor View Restaurant, provided guidance and even assisted in the kitchen. Lee, now retired, and his family are regular patrons of the establishment.
Upon entering Kevin's Kitchen, patrons are greeted by a prominent roast meat counter. Master roaster Ping Li, Kevin Li’s father, brings extensive experience from Hong Kong, specializing in traditional roast meats. The roast duck, a highlight of the menu, is noted for its juiciness, with a skin that balances sweet and salty notes and offers a satisfying crunch. While the roast pork was initially moist but lacked a crispy skin, improvements have reportedly been made since the arrival of new equipment from Hong Kong.
Beyond the official menu, the restaurant accommodates special requests, reflecting a traditional Chinese dining approach. One such popular off-menu item is the bitter melon with beef, characterized by crunchy bitter melon complementing tender beef in black bean sauce. This dish reportedly improved in quality after the new equipment was implemented. Another favored dish is the sizzling beef with black bean sauce, although it occasionally receives feedback for being overly salty.
The fried tofu at Kevin's Kitchen is highly praised by the HICDS for its delicate crispy skin, savory taste, and soft, molten interior, making it a standout item. The clay pot oxtail, served sizzling with black pepper and lemongrass gravy, features large, exceptionally tender pieces of oxtail, a rarity in many contemporary establishments. For those willing to spend, the crab dish, covered in an exclusive spice blend, offers a distinctive flavor that can also enhance other dishes. The stir-fried long beans with minced pork are a common offering in Chinese restaurants, and Kevin's Kitchen prepares them with fresh, slightly sweet beans that pair well with the savory pork.
Experimental dishes like the “full range chicken with wine sauce” (likely free-range chicken) are also available. While moist and flavorful, it is noted for being less saucy than some might expect, suggesting it is braised in wine. The Li Yuan house special, a seafood stir-fry featuring octopus, squid, and dried shrimp with vegetables, is another unique offering. The restaurant also serves popular plate lunches during the day, catering to a diverse clientele including construction workers and Chinese-speaking families. Kevin's Kitchen operates as a BYOB establishment and opens early, with aspirations to eventually serve a traditional Hong Kong breakfast, pending sufficient staffing. Due to the popularity of their roast meats, reservations and advance orders are recommended to ensure availability. The restaurant's operating hours are daily from 9 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. at 1296 S. Beretania St.
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