
At Chin’s Kitchen in Hollywood, It’s Always Soup Season
Patrick Herlihy, a retired US Navy veteran, has become a devoted patron of Chin’s Kitchen in Portland's Hollywood neighborhood since moving back to the area in 2023. Herlihy initially found the restaurant unappealing when he first moved to Portland in 2003, describing it as having only a few plastic chairs and unremarkable food. However, after living elsewhere in the metro area, he noticed a significant change upon his return to Hollywood in 2023. The restaurant, which retained the name Chin's Kitchen due to a landlord's request to match an antique neon sign, had been taken over by Wendy Li and her family in 2017. The new iteration offered a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with a menu inspired by Li's upbringing in northeastern China.
Two years into his patronage, the 64-year-old Herlihy has made countless visits and is diligently exploring the extensive menu, often taking home leftovers due to the generous portion sizes. One of his go-to starters is the hot-and-sour soup, a dish he developed an affinity for after a prolonged battle with COVID-19. He humorously suggests it might have even aided his recovery, despite not being a doctor. Herlihy observes that many diners tend to order the same few items, a habit he contrasts with his own goal of trying nearly everything on the menu. While he has his regular favorites, such as the seafood and pork dumplings and shrimp noodles enhanced with chile oil, he continuously branches out to new dishes.
Herlihy recounted one item he doesn't plan to reorder: the braised pork belly. Although he found it enjoyable, he attributed the decision to a slower metabolism that comes with age, joking that younger individuals might be able to indulge without issue. He also shared a personal anecdote about his transient life due to his father's military career and his own 15 years in the navy, explaining his initial dislike for settling down. However, he made a conscious decision to stay in Portland after turning 50. His long-term commitment to the area means he particularly appreciates Chin's Kitchen's convenient walking distance.
He is also a fan of the new bar space and patio that were added over the summer. Herlihy, who identifies as a "meat-and-potato Irish guy" due to his grandparents' immigration from County Cork, finds surprising parallels between Chinese comfort food and traditional Irish dishes. He expresses a fondness for the restaurant's casserole dishes, including the Chinese sauerkraut and pork stew and the stewed pork ribs and potato noodles, remarking that they are just as good, if not better, than classic Irish stew. This personal connection to the food further solidifies his loyalty to Chin's Kitchen.
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