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A Charming Seaside Restaurant in the Côte Bleue

The Calanques National Park, stretching between Marseille and Cassis, is renowned for its turquoise coves and dramatic limestone cliffs, attracting significant tourist attention. However, north of Marseille, the less-explored Côte Bleue offers a more intimate coastal experience with its charming fishing villages and picturesque coves carved into the limestone hills. This region, also known as the "Blue Coast," features hiking trails connecting secluded ports and a scenic commuter train, the Train de Côte Bleue, which traverses 18 viaducts between seven villages. Despite the arrival of the commuter train in 1915, marked by heritage-tiled stations, the Côte Bleue largely remained a hidden gem, frequented primarily by local fishermen and residents, while other Marseillais often favored the more popular Cassis and Bandol. Interest in the Côte Bleue has grown, with some attributing this to Marseille's designation as the European Capital of Culture in 2013. A significant draw is La Pergola, a restaurant situated in Niolon, a cove on the Côte Bleue offering panoramic views of Marseille. Established in 1958, La Pergola was once a clandestine retreat but had, in recent years, become known for its stunning location rather than its cuisine. This changed in 2016 when Joaquim and Beatrice Piedade took ownership. The couple, experienced restaurateurs, revitalized the establishment while preserving its relaxed atmosphere. They refurbished the interior and the shaded terrace, from which the restaurant derives its name, and Chef Joaquim crafted a menu focused on fresh fish and local ingredients, prioritizing flavor over elaborate culinary techniques. La Pergola is distinguished by its customer-centric service, including all-day operating hours, a rarity in France. This approach has cultivated a loyal clientele of locals and visitors from Marseille and Aix. Chef Joaquim Piedade, who initially pursued accounting, transitioned to the culinary world, driven by a desire for the camaraderie he observed in local eateries. His extensive career spans three decades, encompassing training with a Michelin-starred chef, opening several restaurants in France, Île de Maurice, and Portugal, and working for major French culinary conglomerates. These diverse experiences provided him with comprehensive knowledge of both kitchen operations and front-of-house management. Drawing on his heritage as the descendant of Portuguese fishermen, Joaquim is dedicated to sourcing high-quality fish. He collaborates with Le Chalutier, a father-son fish merchant in Martigues, for a variety of fresh seafood, including sea bass, sea bream, John Dory, and flounder, and also purchases smaller catches from independent fishermen. The restaurant processes approximately 600 kg of fish weekly. Such fresh ingredients necessitate simple preparation, typically involving olive oil, salt, and fennel seeds, cooked on lava-rock grills. Seasonal specialties include swordfish, which Joaquim sources from larger, older specimens to support sustainable fishing practices. This swordfish is prepared either seared or smoked gravlax-style with beech wood, served with olive oil, grapefruit, and cornflower petals. Other menu highlights include meticulously prepared cuttlefish (sepia), frozen, cooked sous-vide, and seared on a plancha to achieve exceptional tenderness, served whole rather than in chopped pieces. Traditional Marseille dishes such as panisses (chickpea fritters), pieds et pacquets (stewed lamb's feet and tripe), and bourride (aioli-scented seafood stew) are also featured. A creative dessert, the savon de Marseille, offers edible “soaps” made from olive oil, butter, sugar, and hazelnuts, resembling decadent raw sugar cookie dough. Joaquim's accras (salt-cod fritters), based on his Portuguese mother’s recipe, are a nod to his family history and are served in generous portions, reflecting his upbringing. His three-part restaurant philosophy emphasizes prioritizing the client, maintaining meticulous organization and food safety, and fostering a passion for the work. His son, Max, manages the wine and spirits, and his daughter, Cassandre, assists with service, both embodying the family’s dedication to hospitality. Visitors to La Pergola can enhance their experience with a pre- or post-meal swim in Niolon's port or a walk along the Sentier de Douanier to the Calanque du Jonquier. #MarseilleCuisine #CôteBleue #LaPergolaRestaurant #FrenchSeafood #CulinaryTravel #MediterraneanCoast #SustainableFishing #FamilyBusiness #MarseilleCuisine #CôteBleue #LaPergolaRestaurant #FrenchSeafood #CulinaryTravel #MediterraneanCoast #SustainableFishing #FamilyBusiness
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