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Inside the fascinating history of bouclé (and why it’s revival isn’t over yet)
Bouclé, a textured fabric known for its small loops, has experienced a significant resurgence in popularity, particularly in interior design and fashion. This versatile material, whose name derives from the French word for 'curl' or 'loop,' was originally made from looped yarn, typically wool. The loops impart a distinct texture, softness, and bulk to the finished cloth, contributing to its cozy and comforting aesthetic.
The rise of bouclé can be largely attributed to mid-20th-century design luminaries. Florence Knoll, a pivotal figure in modern furniture design and co-owner of Knoll Associates, played a crucial role in elevating bouclé's status. Knoll, known for her uncompromising approach to design and her philosophy of creating rather than merely decorating spaces, sought a fabric that combined softness with durability. Her collaboration with Eero Saarinen, a childhood friend and frequent design partner, led to the creation of the iconic 'Womb' chair in the mid-1940s. Saarinen designed the chair to be a deep, inviting seat, allowing individuals to 'curl up' comfortably, a concept that perfectly aligned with the tactile qualities of bouclé.
The 'Womb' chair was upholstered in Knoll's 'Classic Bouclé,' and both the chair and the fabric achieved immediate success. The fabric's soft texture and hard-wearing practicality made it an ideal choice for residential and commercial settings. Its inherent charm and functionality positioned it as a staple in contemporary design.
Beyond interiors, bouclé soon captured the attention of the fashion world. Gabrielle Chanel, a pioneer in modern fashion, had already been experimenting with textured woolen fabrics like tweed since the 1930s. Two decades later, she incorporated bouclé into her collections, creating the distinctive boxy jackets and suits that became, and continue to be, symbols of chic elegance. This crossover into high fashion further cemented bouclé's reputation as a sophisticated and desirable material.
The current renewed interest in bouclé is closely linked to the enduring popularity of mid-century modern design. Over the past five years, luxury textile firms such as Dedar have introduced collections dedicated to this tactile fabric. Furthermore, leading furniture designers like Levi Christiansen, Royal Stranger, and Raf Simons for Kvadrat have integrated bouclé into their new furniture ranges. The fabric's ability to add texture, visual interest, and comfort to interiors has contributed to its sustained appeal.
Bouclé's versatility allows it to be used in various applications, from subtle accents to prominent furniture pieces. It can be featured in cushions, such as those made from Lelièvre's 'Kosi' or 'Lama' fabrics, or it can serve as upholstery for larger items like chairs and sofas, exemplified by B&B; Italia’s 'Tortello' chair designed by Barber Osgerby. Its tactile nature and aesthetic appeal ensure its continued relevance in contemporary design, making it a favorite among designers and homeowners alike.
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