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How plaid went from fashion faux pas to material of the moment
The perception and application of plaid have undergone a significant transformation, evolving from a controversial fashion statement to a versatile and widely accepted material in interior design. In 1992, Marc Jacobs' plaid-heavy collection for Perry Ellis faced harsh criticism from fashion critics, with Bernadine Morris of *The New York Times* describing the outfits as haphazardly assembled, and Suzy Menkes famously distributing 'Grunge Is Ghastly' badges. Jacobs was subsequently fired, yet plaid nonetheless became a defining icon of the 1990s.
Defining plaid itself can be complex, as it often overlaps with similar textiles like tartan, gingham, and checks. The term originates from the Gaelic word 'plaide,' which originally referred to a woven blanket or wrap, not a specific pattern. However, the technique of criss-crossing different colored yarns in the warp and weft is a fundamental weaving design found across various cultures. Over time, the word 'plaid' shifted from describing a type of blanket to encompassing the pattern itself. Today, 'plaid' generally refers to the entire family of fabrics characterized by this criss-crossing structure, including checks and ginghams, while 'tartans' are a specific type of plaid associated with particular clans or communities.
In contemporary interiors, plaid demonstrates remarkable versatility. Its near-limitless array of styles and colors allows it to integrate seamlessly into diverse design schemes. Plaid can serve as a subtle complement to more intricate or organic patterns, or it can take center stage as a bold design element. Ralph Lauren, a consistent advocate for plaid, has repeatedly incorporated it into his collections. Examples include the 'Westcliff Tattersall,' a graphic and contemporary large grid, and the 'McLain' and 'Denis' designs, which feature earthier, more traditional colorways and structures that evoke a country-retreat aesthetic.
Similarly, Ian Mankin's 'Paint Pot' collection showcases plaid in both vibrant and muted tones, including a cheerful claret and rust combination, and simpler yet striking jumbo ginghams like 'Avon Check' available in nine different hues. For those seeking a nod to early-1990s grunge, Thibaut's 'Huntley' plaid wallpaper offers a small-scale design reminiscent of the shades famously worn by Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell in Jacobs' controversial collection. These statement prints suggest a bold, punk-rock attitude, contrasting with the more subdued applications. The evolution of plaid highlights its enduring appeal and adaptability, allowing it to transition from a symbol of anti-establishment fashion to a sophisticated and adaptable element in home decoration.
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