
Installing Electric Radiant-Floor Heating Will Have You Staying Warm All Winter
This article details the process of installing an electric radiant-floor heating system, highlighting its benefits and providing a step-by-step guide for DIY enthusiasts. Radiant-floor heating, an ancient method dating back to the Romans, warms the floor directly, creating a consistently comfortable temperature throughout a room without the cold or hot spots often experienced with conventional heating systems like forced hot air, baseboard heaters, or cast-iron radiators. The author, who has personal experience with both radiant-floor heat and hot-water baseboards, attests to the superior comfort provided by radiant heating.
The article distinguishes between two primary types of modern radiant-floor heating systems: hydronic and electric. Hydronic systems involve a boiler circulating hot water through tubes beneath the floor, while electric systems utilize a series of wires connected to an electrical circuit. Both types are controlled by a wall-mounted thermostat. The author focuses on the installation of an electric radiant-heat mat in a bathroom, emphasizing that this is the quickest, easiest, most affordable, and most DIY-friendly option.
The installation process begins with subfloor preparation, which involves disconnecting and removing the toilet, prying off baseboard moldings, and removing old flooring to expose the plywood subfloor. Any water damage found in the subfloor must be repaired by cutting out the damaged section and replacing it with new plywood. Following this, cement backerboard is installed over the subfloor to provide a stable base for tiling. This involves mixing latex-modified thin-set mortar, spreading it with a notched trowel, laying the backerboard into the wet mortar, tapping it down, and securing it with screws, leaving a 1/8-inch gap between sheets. Seams are then covered with adhesive-backed mesh tape and a thin layer of mortar, which is allowed to cure overnight.
The core of the installation involves laying the radiant-heat mat. While typically mats are laid in mortar and immediately tiled over, the author suggests an additional step for improved performance: setting the mat in mortar, allowing it to cure overnight, and then pouring self-leveling underlayment over it. This extra cement layer ensures a perfectly smooth, level surface for tiling and enhances thermal mass for better heat radiation. The mat is laid in sections of thin-set mortar, ensuring electrical cables are not crushed. A rubber grout float is used to press the mat and remove air bubbles and wrinkles. A metal floor-sensing probe is pulled through a slit in the mat and pressed into the mortar, away from electrical cables, to ensure accurate temperature readings for the thermostat. After the mortar and underlayment cure, a licensed electrician is called to connect the heat mat to a dedicated electrical circuit and install the thermostat, typically 60 inches above the floor. Once the electrician confirms proper operation, the tiling process can begin, leading to a cozier home environment.
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