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Alison Cook reviews Navy Blue: A seafood restaurant with immaculate style
Navy Blue, chef Aaron Bludorn’s high-end seafood restaurant in Rice Village, Houston, offers a sophisticated and precise dining experience. The restaurant is characterized by its cool and collected atmosphere, immaculate presentation, and careful French culinary techniques, setting it apart from traditional Gulf Coast seafood establishments. Executive chef Jerrod Zifchak, who previously worked at Le Bernardin and Cafe Boulud, oversees the kitchen, maintaining an unhurried yet precise approach to cooking.
The menu at Navy Blue features modern fare with meticulous attention to detail. For instance, a grouper sandwich is transformed into an elegant dish with dewy, airily fried fish and a caper aioli with filigreed cabbage. Other notable dishes include hamachi tartare, delicately molded with papaya and a subtle hint of coconut, and madai snapper crudo, which combines white peach, aguachile, and ginger to create a harmonious blend of textures and flavors. Even familiar items like burrata are reinvented, presented as a tartine with prosciutto, spring peas, and pea shoots, enhanced by a splash of olive oil.
While the restaurant is praised for its excellent product quality and consistent execution, its pricing is on the higher side. Single oyster shots are priced at $14, and individual East Coast oysters cost $4 each, which can be a point of contention for some diners. An anecdote recounts a customer's surprise at finding a stone crab "claw" referred to in the singular on the menu for its $20 price, indicating that it is indeed served as a single claw.
The dining room at Navy Blue is designed with a modern aesthetic, featuring cool tones, kinetic metal curves, and blond-wood dividers, creating an impression of urban sophistication. The lighting is thoughtfully arranged to highlight each table, and the service staff, including Aaron Bludorn’s partner Cherif Mbodji, are described as polished, knowledgeable, and efficient. The restaurant operates smoothly, akin to a well-oiled machine.
The pasta dishes on the menu are highlighted as exceptional, though they can sometimes create a disjointed dining experience if diners choose to mix classic seafood options with more adventurous crudos and pastas. The spaghetti vongole, featuring briny clams, seaweed slivers, and sea urchin, is offered in two sizes and is noted for its intense oceanic flavors. Another standout is the lobster ravioli, filled with juicy lobster hunks and flavored with Madeira wine, complemented by springy pea shoots. The biscuits, rich with butter, are also a memorable, albeit potentially incongruous, side item. However, one dish, a crabcake topped with tomato chutney, is singled out as a misstep due to clashing flavors.
Desserts at Navy Blue also demonstrate creativity and attention to detail. Examples include the "Mint Bomb" with its chocolate glaze and "frozen foam" interior, an elegant Key lime pie, and a special offering of kunafe with cherry compote, halloumi cheese, and pistachio ice cream. These desserts, like many other dishes at Navy Blue, are designed to be distinctive and leave a lasting impression on diners.
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