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New dimensions from Dedar Milano
Dedar Milano has unveiled its latest 'light and luminous' fabric collection, launched at the close of 2024, which serves to reinterpret and enrich the brand's existing textile library. This new collection features 20 sheer materials and wallcoverings, expanding upon Dedar’s White Writings family with new embroideries, vibrant color palettes, and metallic voiles.
The collection introduces a range of transparencies, blending natural fibers such as linen and hemp with wool to create lightweight and airy designs. Textural sheers incorporate innovative materials like raffia and explore new weaving techniques to vary levels of transparency. While many of these sheer fabrics utilize muted tones to emphasize subtle details, Dedar Milano has also incorporated bold colors, offering a broader spectrum of design possibilities.
A notable addition is "Lumillumina," inspired by the Finnish word for snow, which reinterprets the geometric motifs of Dedar’s "Nevicava" fabric. This new iteration integrates metallic veins, drawing parallels to jewelry from the early 20th century, evoking the styles of René Lalique and Georges Fouquet, as well as the fashion trends of the Roaring Twenties.
Further expansions in the transparencies category include two soft, drapey sheers with distinct natural characteristics. One is a slightly slubbed, linen-rich canvas weave, and the other is "Cnossian," a hemp fabric that presents white nuances with a warm, golden undertone. The collection also features wool fabrics, offering an unusual billowy interpretation for luminous curtains. "Leporello" introduces a wavy, three-dimensional effect through pleating, while other flexible fabrics use wool yarns of varying thicknesses in sparse weaves to achieve increasing levels of transparency. A textured woolly canvas weave, "Autrebois," highlights the importance of texture within the collection.
Two fire-retardant fabrics, available in double width, are also part of the transparencies range, offering washability and crease resistance. These fabrics present a diverse array of styles, from the micro-geometric patterns of "Kin" to linen-like textures, all enhanced by airy weaves and bulky ondé threads.
The collection also features fabrics enriched with embroidery and artistic touches, particularly within the "White Writings" family. These new sheers introduce unprecedented visual and design elements, creating volumetric chiaroscuro effects through the play of light and shadow when viewed against a backlight. The embroidered motifs, sometimes placed on existing collection grounds, allow for numerous combinations, from conventional to more surprising and personal expressions. The degree of transparency varies significantly, from dense and precise embroideries like "Cielo" and "Aplomb" to more irregular textures on a "Wide Linen Sablé" ground.
Several embroidered motifs revisit patterns from "Promenade Kafkaïenne" and "Liberabirinto," applying them to different grounds. "Dancing the Horizon" uses a fine, densely warped merino wool, while "Regolith" features pure linen with a textural translucency. "Rabdomante" stands out with its energetic, instinctive topstitched motif on a semi-transparent, extra-fine wool ground, offering a sartorial drape. "Calicanto Lieve" explores an abstract combination of materials, animated by expressive fil coupé fringes.
Dedar Milano has also transformed these sheer fabrics into wallcoverings. "Goral Wall" combines organic shapes resembling branches or corals with a background of thick, uneven matka silk. "Lost in Nazca Wall" depicts a prehistoric labyrinth on pure silk shantung, while "Za Wall" and "Ze Wall" superimpose pictorial motifs on frosted linen chintz and laminated jute, respectively. "Idola Theatri Wall" features an amplified light burnishing effect that creates an evanescent forest on laminated jute, and "Yamnaya Letters Wall" evokes imaginary alphabets. "Marmore Wall" draws inspiration from Japanese suminagashi and Turkish ebru marbling, outlining gentle, circular patterns inspired by nature.
In the realm of moiré wallcoverings, Dedar, a pioneer in reinventing moiré since the 1990s, introduces "Amoir Libre" and "Amoir Fou." These new moirés, with their multicoloured "tail" effects, complement silkier fabrics and marbled textile wallcoverings, coexisting harmoniously with the new white-based wallcoverings in the collection. Dedar's approach to moiré has modernized its use, moving beyond classical applications to embrace affinities with natural forms like marble veining and ocean waves, giving it a contemporary appeal.
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