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Wareham, MA News
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Wareham, MA News

Cape grad designs for high-end NYC firm

Rachel Doriss, a graduate of Barnstable High, has achieved her dream career as the design director of Pollack, a globally recognized woven textile company based in New York City. Her passion for textiles began in childhood, influenced by her weaver grandmother, Barbara Mitnik, who taught her various fiber crafts like bead weaving, crocheting, knitting, and traditional weaving. Most significantly, they spent time sewing together, visiting fabric stores, selecting patterns, and creating outfits. Doriss recalls often feeling unsatisfied with the limited fabric choices available, leading her to conceptualize her own design patterns without initially understanding the textile industry as a potential career path. Throughout high school, Doriss continued to sew most of her own clothes, also exploring fabric dyeing and batik. Upon graduating, her parents, John C. Doriss and Elizabeth Doriss, gifted her a new Singer sewing machine. She initially pursued fine art at UMass Amherst for two years before transferring to the Rhode Island School of Design to specialize in textile arts. It was during a junior year field trip to New York City, visiting various fabric companies, that Doriss realized the existence of a textile industry and the possibility of a career within it, a realization that shifted her perspective on her future. Doriss joined Pollack in 2000 as an associate designer, steadily progressing through the ranks to become vice president of design five years prior to her most recent promotion in May to design director. In this new role, she aims to infuse a fresh perspective and personal vision into the company's direction, anticipating a shift towards more saturated, fresher, and brighter colors in their textile collections. Pollack specializes in designing woven fabrics for upholstery and drapery, catering to both commercial and residential interior design markets. The company is known for its innovative and contemporary approach, consistently pushing the boundaries of textile design. Molly McGinness, owner of Molly McGinness Interior Design in Falmouth, highly regards Pollack fabrics for their durability, luxurious feel, and practicality for everyday living. Doriss's design process extends beyond just patterns; she prioritizes the fiber itself, considering its composition, the yarn's spinning method, and how it is colored. She also meticulously plans the construction of the warp and weft for the weaving process, sometimes starting with a pattern, other times with a specific yarn, or even an ethereal concept like how light interacts with drapery or how fabric moves and sounds. The three-person design team at Pollack exclusively creates their artwork by hand in the studio, using computers merely as tools. They believe hand-drawn designs offer superior control and subtlety, even practicing the increasingly rare skill of drawing in repeat, where a unit is repeated consistently, sometimes overtly and other times subtly. This meticulous process results in sophisticated, high-end fabrics, with prices ranging from $20 to $200 per yard for specialized materials like cotton velvet woven in Italy and embroidered in India. The company releases two collections annually, fall and spring, each featuring approximately 20 new fabrics with multiple color variations. Doriss and her team work significantly ahead, designing collections up to a year in advance. Once designs are finalized, they are sent to top mills worldwide, with lead times of around nine months to bring a fabric to market. These mills specialize in materials based on regional traditions, such as Belgium for linens, the UK and New Zealand for sheep's wool, South America for wool from sheep and alpacas, India for silks and embroidery, and Italy for silk jacquard and luxurious velvets. Doriss expresses deep satisfaction in collaborating with these experienced mills, drawing on their century-old traditions and her lifelong love of fabric. #TextileDesign #InteriorDesign #RachelDoriss #PollackFabrics #WovenTextiles #HighEndDesign #FabricInnovation #DesignCareer #CapeCodTalent #TextileDesign #InteriorDesign #RachelDoriss #PollackFabrics #WovenTextiles #HighEndDesign #FabricInnovation #DesignCareer #CapeCodTalent
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