Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’

The article discusses Tyler Mitchell's exhibition, 'Portrait of the Modern Dandy,' at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London. This collection of photographs was initially created as a visual essay for the Met's spring 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,' curated by Monica L. Miller. Mitchell's decision to display these works in Burlington Arcade is intentional, given the area's historical connection to sartorial culture, being close to Savile Row and Jermyn Street, and once housing Britain's first department store. He highlights that figures like Olaudah Equiano and Julius Soubise utilized style in these very streets centuries ago as a means of self-expression and challenging social hierarchies. The exhibition is significant as it deliberately reinserts contemporary images of Black Dandy presence into a historical lineage that largely began in England. Mitchell's series invites a re-evaluation of dandy aesthetics and their contexts, building upon recent explorations of menswear and Black style in London, such as Ekow Eshun’s ‘Made You Look: Dandyism and Black Masculinity’ and the V&A’s ‘Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear’. Mitchell, who understood dandyism and the Black Dandy archetype before this project, views it as a clever subversion of traditional male dress conventions. His upbringing in Atlanta led him to seek alternative expressions of male identity intertwined with his Blackness. Mitchell is known for his world-building and scenes of Black utopia, where leisure is portrayed as a tender pursuit, as evidenced in his monograph 'Wish This Was Real.' Fashion serves as a crucial storytelling tool in his work. He has collaborated with notable designers like Jonathan Anderson and Grace Wales Bonner and made history as the first Black photographer to shoot a _Vogue_ cover (Beyoncé) in the magazine's 126-year history at just 23 years old. For Mitchell, the Black Dandy symbolizes a realm of possibilities, offering a perspective on reimagining masculinity. The Gagosian show features protagonists dressed in various suit styles and accessories, some wearing garments from the Met exhibition, while others are self-styled or don pieces from their personal wardrobes. Noteworthy images include '_The Dinner Party_,' depicting nine individuals in sharp black suits, top hats, and bow ties around a table, and '_Harlem Stoop_,' showcasing eight people in front of a Brownstone, referencing the Harlem Renaissance. Mitchell reflects on the project's origins, stating that Monica Miller gave him considerable creative freedom, aiming to blend historical references with a modern sensibility while envisioning the future. His research for the project involved immersing himself in Miller’s writings and revisiting other influential works like Isaac Julien’s _Looking for Langston_. He recalls a significant moment discovering an early portrait of Colman Domingo in Shantrelle P Lewis’s _Dandy Lion: The Black Dandy and Street Style_, which underscored how dandyism can be evoked through diverse means, primarily through attitude and wit. Mitchell perceives his work as fragments of a larger narrative, embracing beauty while accepting that not every image needs to be a standalone masterpiece, emphasizing fluidity. In creating 'Portrait of the Modern Dandy,' he consciously engaged in a dialogue with photographic predecessors such as James Van Der Zee, Carl Van Vechten, Seydou Keïta, and Malick Sidibé, and acknowledges contemporary influences like Yinka Shonibare, Isaac Julien, Grace Wales Bonner, and Rotimi Fani-Kayode in London. #TylerMitchell #PhotographyExhibition #BlackDandy #GagosianLondon #FashionHistory #Masculinity #ArtAndCulture #LondonArtScene #TylerMitchell #PhotographyExhibition #BlackDandy #GagosianLondon #FashionHistory #Masculinity #ArtAndCulture #LondonArtScene

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