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A New Exhibition at SCAD Focuses on André Leon Talley’s Life in Clothes
The article discusses "André Leon Talley: Style Is Forever," an exhibition showcasing the life and fashion journey of André Leon Talley through his clothing. The exhibition is hosted at the SCAD Museum of Art in Savannah (August 15 to January 11) and the SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film in Atlanta (October 15 to March 1). It chronicles Talley's trajectory from his upbringing in the segregated South to his influential position in the global fashion scene.
Talley's early life in Durham, North Carolina, heavily influenced by his grandmother Bennie Frances Davis, instilled in him an appreciation for immaculate dressing. His academic success at Brown University led him to New York City, where he interned at The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum under Diana Vreeland in 1974. Despite financial constraints, he developed a distinctive personal style, sourcing unique pieces from thrift stores, such as a military coat and a pith helmet, which he styled with starched shirts and Bermuda shorts. This early eccentric aesthetic laid the foundation for his future fashion persona.
Vreeland recognized Talley's exceptional fashion knowledge and introduced him to Andy Warhol, who offered him his first job at *Interview* magazine. An image from May 1976 captures Talley at Calvin Klein’s apartment, exemplifying his daring yet refined style, featuring white knee-length shorts, a striped shirt with a ribbon tie, a straw hat, and high socks that elongated his already tall frame.
Later, Talley moved to Paris to work as a fashion editor for *WWD* in the late 1970s. During this period, he was known for his commanding presence, often wearing double-breasted suits, bowed patent evening shoes, satin ribbon ties, and polka-dot cravats. He became a fixture at couture shows, escorting prominent figures like Iman and Cher, embodying glamour and wit.
Upon joining American *Vogue* in 1992, Talley continued to exert his influence, known for his dramatic pronouncements and astute observations on fashion. He eventually returned to the U.S., taking on a significant role at the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) at the invitation of its founder, Paula Wallace. Talley, deeply fond of Savannah's historical charm, leveraged his connections to bring prominent designers like Tom Ford, Miuccia Prada, and Marc Jacobs to engage with SCAD students. He also played a crucial role in developing SCAD's Costume Collection, which includes donations from notable fashion figures and many of his own iconic pieces.
The exhibition features some of Talley's most memorable outfits, such as the Tom Ford embroidered stamped-leather coat he wore to the 1999 Met Gala, a Chanel Haute Couture opera coat for the 2004 Met Gala, and a vibrant Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga coat worn in 2011. As his physique changed, his wardrobe adapted; he continued to wear custom-made suits from renowned tailors but layered them with extravagant coats, including a multi-alligator-skin Prada coat and a red "sleeping bag" coat by Norma Kamali, always accessorized with oversized designer bags and luxurious stoles.
In his later years, Talley adopted custom Uggs and elaborate caftans by designers like Dapper Dan, Tom Ford, and Ralph Rucci. Throughout his career, and especially during his time at SCAD, Talley was a passionate mentor, particularly to Black students, aiming to foster their dreams and careers. He wished to be remembered as someone who made a significant difference in the lives of young people, nurturing them and helping them pursue their passions, leaving a lasting legacy.
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