
Istanbul, the Capital of Carpet Shops (Published 1993)
The author recounts a personal experience of purchasing an Oriental carpet in Istanbul, highlighting the initial misstep of overspending on a wool Hereke from Pasha's Carpet Gallery. This purchase, made without prior knowledge, served as a hard lesson in the complexities of carpet acquisition. The narrative emphasizes the skill of carpet merchants, who often employ mesmerizing tactics, such as demonstrating the weave's tightness and elaborating on the rug's history, to entice customers. The process, typically accompanied by the rhythmic display of multiple rugs and the serving of coffee, can lull buyers into making impulsive and costly decisions.
Istanbul is presented as an exceptional destination for carpet shopping due to its abundance of shops, particularly in its labyrinthine alleys. The city offers an unparalleled variety of carpets, ranging from new Turkish Herekes and Kayseris to antique Persian and Turkoman pieces imported from Iran and the former Soviet Union. Beyond its commercial appeal, Istanbul's historical grandeur, marked by the monuments of the Ottoman Empire and world-class hotels, enhances the shopping experience.
For serious collectors interested in antique carpets, which can command astronomical prices, Istanbul provides ample opportunities. However, the article advises against viewing carpet purchases solely as investments, especially without extensive experience, given the unregulated nature of the antique carpet market. The value of such pieces is not always immediately apparent; a seemingly worn rug can be worth thousands to a knowledgeable collector. A photographer named Thomas B. Hartwell, a seasoned collector for 15 years, offers practical advice: buy a carpet only if it is personally appealing and complements one's home. He recommends dedicating a day or two to browsing and comparing prices across different shops. Once a desired carpet is identified, a separate day should be set aside for bargaining. The strategy involves feigning dissatisfaction with the final price and returning the next day to negotiate a better deal.
Ultimately, the article frames carpet buying in Istanbul as an intricate process that requires patience, observation, and a degree of skepticism. While the city offers a rich tapestry of choices and a vibrant cultural experience, navigating the market successfully necessitates a thoughtful approach, focusing on personal preference rather than speculative investment.
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