Hands-On: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm is a faithful re-edition of a military-issue watch from the Vietnam War era, which was originally known as the FAPD 5101 or Type 1 Navigator. The article highlights that Hamilton successfully launched a vintage-inspired Khaki Field Mechanical watch for under US$500 in late 2017. Building on this success, Hamilton expanded the collection in 2019 with three new iterations featuring an upgraded movement. The original military specification for the FAPD 5101, also nicknamed the “GI” after American troops, included a hacking function, where the seconds hand stops when the crown is pulled out. This feature was important for military synchronization. Other American watchmakers such as Benrus, Westclox, Belforte, and Timex also produced the FAPD 5101. These watches were designed to be inexpensive and disposable, featuring either plastic or metal cases. The FAPD 5101's design included a sterile black dial with triangular hour markers and both 12- and 24-hour scales, conforming to the MIL-W-46374 standard established by the US Department of Defence in 1964, which evolved from the MIL-W-3818B of 1962. Before the advent of quartz watches, these timepieces typically incorporated a hand-wound, 17-jewel, centre seconds movement with a hacking function. The 2019 Khaki Field Mechanical retains the essential design elements while offering modern enhancements. It is available in a stainless steel case with a choice of white or black dials, as well as a stainless steel case with an olive green PVD coating and a matching green dial. All case types feature a sandblasted matte finish and are equipped with sapphire crystals. The 38mm diameter of the new models is considered agreeable by contemporary standards, though it is notably larger than the original unobtrusive military watches. The dials maintain the appearance of the earlier version, with twin hour tracks and triangular markers. The hands and triangular markers are coated with sand-coloured Super-Luminova. The green PVD-coated case is noted for its less technical and more distinctive appearance, resembling aged bronze but without its characteristic oxidization. A significant upgrade in the 2019 models is the new cal. H-50 movement, which replaces the stock ETA 2801-2 found in the 2018 versions. The cal. H-50, exclusively made for Hamilton by ETA, enhances the power reserve from 42 hours to 80 hours. This was achieved by optimizing energy consumption and enlarging the power source. Specifically, the balance frequency was reduced from 4Hz (28,800 beats per hour) to 3Hz (21,600 beats per hour), and the core of the barrel arbor was minimized to accommodate a longer mainspring. Hamilton is recognized as one of the few brands producing affordable, large-scale hand-wound watches. The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm is lauded for its aesthetics, dimensions, build quality, and specifications, which are considered exceptional within its price segment for a “Swiss made” watch. Key specifications include a 38mm diameter, 9.5mm height, 50m water resistance, and the hand-wound H-50 movement with an 80-hour power reserve. It is offered with NATO or leather straps, depending on the dial and case color. Prices for the various configurations range from 475 Swiss francs (690 Singapore dollars) to 585 Swiss francs (850 Singapore dollars). The article concludes that the Khaki Field Mechanical is an extremely compelling reissue, presenting significant value. #HamiltonWatches #KhakiFieldMechanical #MilitaryWatches #VintageInspired #SwissMade #HandWoundMovement #WatchReview #AffordableLuxury #WatchDesign #HamiltonWatches #KhakiFieldMechanical #MilitaryWatches #VintageInspired #SwissMade #HandWoundMovement #WatchReview #AffordableLuxury #WatchDesign

73 months ago

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