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Acne Studios celebrates ten years in Paris with a ‘twisted’ pink wedding
Acne Studios marked its tenth anniversary of showing in Paris with an S/S 2023 collection that explored the archetypes of a 'twisted wedding party.' The event, held at Paris’ Palais de Tokyo, featured an all-pink set design, a color deeply embedded in the brand's identity, often referred to as ‘Acne Studios pink.’ Creative director Jonny Johansson initiated this choice, noting that the color was once unpopular, but the brand embraced and integrated it into its DNA, aiming to redefine its context.
The inspiration for the 'wedding party' theme stemmed from Johansson's reflection on the brand's decade in Paris, an occasion he felt warranted a significant celebration. He viewed a wedding as the most iconic and universally understood celebratory event, providing a rich source of aesthetic choices. The S/S 2023 collection was designed to incorporate elements reminiscent of nuptials, from the tablecloths and chandeliers to bridal accessories like shoes and bows, infusing them with a kitschy yet sweet sensibility. Johansson also reflected on his own wedding nearly two decades prior, humorously noting his regret over wearing a traditional black suit, which likely influenced the collection’s unconventional approach to wedding attire.
A key highlight of the set design was the collaboration with London-based nail artist Sylvie Macmillan, who created large-scale, shell-encrusted candelabras. Macmillan’s artistic background, known for surreal and embellished manicures, transitioned into these sculptural pieces. Her previous work included a charity project where she crafted smaller, shell-covered candelabras from sourced materials. The Acne Studios commission allowed her to expand on these designs, working with larger structures and diverse shell species. Macmillan’s intent was to make the shells appear as if they naturally grew from or clung to the candelabras, drawing inspiration from barnacles and limpets on rocks and shipwrecks, thus offering a non-formulaic approach to shell embellishment.
The artistic ensemble for the event also included the 'avant-harp' collective Leya & Eartheater, who served as the wedding band, further contributing to the 'twisted' theme. This choice reinforced the brand’s commitment to an unconventional and avant-garde interpretation of traditional elements. Johansson acknowledges the ongoing pressure of showing in Paris, even after ten years, emphasizing that weddings, while cute and kitschy, also carry a sense of seriousness and vulnerability, a duality reflected in the collection.
The article highlights Acne Studios' distinctive approach to fashion, blending kitsch with high design and creating immersive experiences for its shows. The brand's use of pink, initially a controversial choice, has become a signature element. The collaboration with Macmillan underscores the brand's interest in interdisciplinary artistry, bringing an unexpected element to the fashion presentation. The S/S 2023 show served as both a retrospective of Acne Studios' journey in Paris and a forward-looking statement on its aesthetic philosophy.
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