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Vivienne Westwood Will Be a Punk Forever
The article chronicles Vivienne Westwood's visit to Savannah, Georgia, where she received the André Leon Talley Lifetime Achievement Award from SCAD and unveiled a new exhibition of her work at the SCAD Museum. Westwood, known for her distinctive style and strong political convictions, navigated the city streets in five-inch platform boots, wearing a rose-colored toga over a visible black bra, armbands advocating for 'Climate Revolution,' and political slogan buttons. This attire underscores her refusal to be categorized solely as a preserved punk icon, a design legend, a feminist heroine, or a grand dame. Despite her historical association with punk aesthetics involving safety pins and dog collars, her current rebellious and activist spirit firmly establishes her as a lifelong punk, even as her design focus has evolved.
Westwood's primary concern during her visit was not her past achievements but her ongoing fight against overconsumption, indicated by her potential plan to condense her four fashion lines into two. When questioned about the initial obstacles in her career, given her working-class background and late entry into the industry without connections, she expressed not having given it much thought. She also rejected the 'feminist' label despite her prominence as a woman helming a fashion business. Her independence in a landscape dominated by conglomerates, she noted, was initially not a goal but a consequence of her inability to secure backing due to her avant-garde ideas. This independence, however, has afforded her complete control over her business, which she values, contrasting it with the pressures faced by designers working under corporate ownership.
The exhibition, 'Dress Up Story — 1990 Until Now,' curated by André Leon Talley, spans the last 25 years of Westwood’s designs. It presents a fantastical exploration of her world through various tableaux that blend her creations with art and interior decor. The display features closely packed Old World portraits, towering wigs, striking makeup, and mannequins adorned with dog collars, swinging from chandeliers, and arranged around a state bed and fireplace. Talley described the aesthetic as a 'gluttonous potpourri,' drawing inspiration from British estate art displays and evoking a blend of Vita Sackville-West and Isabella Blow. The show highlights the balance of aristocracy and eccentricity, merging elements like whips and spikes with crinolines and corsets, referencing historical eras from Regency to Edwardiana. Talley emphasized the glamour and joy of Westwood's clothes, asserting their modernity and visionary quality.
Westwood's deep knowledge of art history is evident in her ability to identify the inspirations behind her prints, such as a dress featuring a print inspired by Frans Hals's *The Laughing Cavalier*. She also expresses admiration for artists like Gainsborough, Boucher, and Boulle, attributing her understanding of historical costumes to her British heritage and a natural inclination for English tailoring. She avoids typical fashion industry gossip, instead focusing on global issues like Julian Assange, fracking, and political disappointments. Her strong sense of justice extends to seemingly minor details, such as the use of paper versus linen napkins or turning off lights to conserve energy. She advocates for conscious consumption, urging people to 'buy less, buy better quality,' and is even considering reducing her company's size to align with this philosophy. Despite her significant influence, Westwood often self-deprecates regarding her designs, frequently deferring to her husband, Andreas Kronthaler, who is actively involved in the design process. She acknowledges the distinct approach of male designers, whom she believes elevate women, contrasting it with her own practical perspective. Rejecting the concept of a 'role model,' Westwood maintains her punk ethos by challenging societal expectations, emphasizing that fashion is not a sacred entity.
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