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First look: Western Mongolia meets Kew Gardens in John Pawson and Oyuna Tserendorj’s cashmere throws
This article highlights a new cashmere throw collection, a collaboration between Mongolian-born cashmere designer Oyuna Tserendorj and British architectural designer John Pawson. The partnership bridges the cultural expanses of Western Mongolia, specifically the Khovd Province, with the botanical serenity of Kew Gardens in west London. The collection draws inspiration from Pawson’s 70-meter-long Lake Crossing, also known as the Sackler Crossing, a pathway that meanders through 120 meters of the Royal Botanical Gardens. The five-piece capsule is crafted from 100 percent Mongolian cashmere, produced by the nomad community with whom Tserendorj has consistently collaborated since the inception of her eponymous brand, Oyuna, in 2002.
Pawson emphasizes the architectural nature of design, stating, “it’s all architecture, whether it’s a fork, an entire monastery or a throw.” He notes the opportunity to focus intensely on elements like color, tone, pattern, rhythm, and texture within this textile project. Tserendorj reflects on the organic development of their partnership, which began over a decade ago through mutual acquaintances in London, valuing the intuitive process and the collaborative evolution of ideas.
Initially, the project aimed to translate an image Tserendorj had captured of a frozen Tolbo lake in Western Mongolia into abstract patterns for the throws. However, the initial samples did not meet their expectations. Undeterred, they revisited Pawson’s extensive archive and ultimately found inspiration in the Lake Crossing pathway he completed in 2006. This architectural work provided the stimulus for the collection's elemental color palette and patterns, reflecting the shades and surface textures of the crossing, along with the cement and slate materials frequently used by Pawson.
The finished throws embody the designers' shared dedication to architectural lines, pure form, and meticulous attention to detail, which are subtly presented and sensuously revealed upon interaction. Pawson observes a deep conceptual alignment with Tserendorj's work, noting, “I see so much of the thinking that has shaped my own work underpinning Oyuna’s pieces.” He elaborates on the thematic connections, particularly their mutual understanding of the critical importance of material palettes. Pawson underscores the value of collaborations, stating they are essential for keeping creative thinking fresh and fostering design advancement through dialogue and genuine exchange.
Each throw, priced at £1,195, represents an investment in slow luxury, with the production involving eight to nine hours of work from cashmere yarn. These pieces are designed for longevity, akin to Pawson’s enduring objects and structures. Tserendorj further explains the profound commitment involved, detailing how nomads care for their goats for a year, combing 15 to 20 goats' hair in spring to yield enough cashmere for a single throw. She suggests that if one considers the wisdom and traditions of the nomads, who live harmoniously with the land and livestock, the creation process spans centuries. The collection is set to launch mid-October and will be available exclusively through oyuna.com and the OYUNA store in London.
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