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Review: JoJo's Bar and Backyard Maintains the Legacy of Gamekeeper's Taverne
JoJo's Bar and Backyard in Chagrin Falls has successfully carried forward the legacy of the former Gamekeeper's Taverne, a beloved restaurant known for its unique outdoor dining experience. Gamekeeper's, established in 1976 by Tom Lutz, was celebrated for its game meat offerings and its transformation into a chic and elegant establishment over four decades. Adjacent to the Inn of Chagrin Falls, it provided a luxurious bed and breakfast-like atmosphere, attracting a diverse clientele including local dignitaries, celebratory diners, and celebrities like Michael J. Fox and Bill Belichick. Despite memorable dishes such as elk medallions and ostrich skewers, it was the patio that truly set Gamekeeper's apart. Its large canopy tree created a familiar yet transformative outdoor space, often cited as one of the best outdoor dining spots in the region, even long before the pandemic popularized outdoor dining.
After Gamekeeper's closed in 2017 and its successor, Bull & Bird, was cut short by the pandemic, restaurateur Rick Doody, who operates a five-restaurant food empire including Bar Italia and Cedar Creek Grille, acquired the iconic location. Doody, whose office is next door and whose wife Wendy runs W Design across the street, recognized the potential to revitalize the space. He aimed to make the 'Backyard' something special. In May 2022, following the opening of JoJo's Bar, an Italian Steakhouse, Doody launched JoJo's Backyard. This new outdoor area, described as an umbrellaed oasis with a live-fire Argentine grill, transports diners to an ambiance reminiscent of a country club pool bar, similar to those found in Naples, Florida, where Doody also has business interests.
The transformation of the space involved a complete gut renovation by W Design, requiring a year of construction and collaboration with the local Architectural Board of Review to preserve the historic building's integrity and 'old cottage feel.' The result is two distinct yet harmonious experiences: a lively indoor dining room and bar with tall ceilings, baroque features like a checkered floor, chandeliers, and a fireplace, accommodating over 100 guests; and a cavernous, casual patio escape. The patio is meticulously designed with flower walls, greenery, and wicker fixtures, allowing for a relaxed dress code and a walk-in policy. The Argentine grill, initially a source of conceptual confusion due to its association with a specific cuisine, is instead utilized by executive chef Rob Records to elevate classic backyard cookout dishes to a luxurious level. While chimichurri, a staple of Argentine steakhouses, is present on only one dish, the focus is on a unique menu of 10 to 15 wood-fired options specific to the Backyard.
Highlights of JoJo's Backyard menu include refined versions of traditional cookout fare, such as Knife & Fork Ribs, the Backyard American Cheeseburger, and char-grilled prime New York Strip, all butchered in-house. Lighter options like Grilled Corn on the Husk and grilled artichoke with house-made remoulade are also featured. The menu continues to evolve, with recent additions such as Wagyu Beef Sloppy JoJos and Tuna Nicoise, demonstrating Doody’s commitment to innovation and keeping the dining experience fresh. The indoor JoJo's Bar menu, which includes popular items like wagyu beef carpaccio, is also available on the patio, ensuring that diners do not miss out if outdoor seating is unavailable. The establishment successfully blends traditional comfort food with upscale preparation, offering a taste of nostalgia reimagined for contemporary palates, thus serving as a worthy successor to Gamekeeper's Taverne.
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