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What’s it really like to work in a Michelin kitchen? Six far-flung Irish chefs tell their stories
This article explores the experiences of six Irish chefs working in Michelin-starred restaurants across the globe, highlighting their journeys, challenges, and motivations. The chefs, ranging in age from 26 to 37, have pursued their culinary ambitions in diverse locations such as Hong Kong, London, Barcelona, Stockholm, and Copenhagen, contributing to the global reputation of Irish culinary talent. Their paths to Michelin kitchens were varied, from starting in family-owned takeaways to formal culinary arts education and competitive cooking. Each chef shares insights into the rigorous demands, intense pressure, and unwavering pursuit of perfection characteristic of fine dining environments, while also discussing the cultural adaptations and personal growth experienced during their international careers.
Chor-Fai Shek, 30, from Cookstown, Co Tyrone, began his career at the three-Michelin-starred Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London after being inspired by fellow Northern Irish chef Clare Smyth. He completed a seven-year apprenticeship there before moving to Tokyo and then Hong Kong, where he has been involved in pop-up projects. Shek notes the culture shock of working in Tokyo due to language barriers but has adapted to the fast-paced culinary scene in Asia. Christina Blevins, 28, from Lurgan, Co Armagh, initially doubted her capabilities but found her determination after a trial at Jason Atherton’s Little Social in London. She spent seven years at Clare Smyth’s three-starred Core before returning to work with Atherton as head chef at Row on 5, where they earned a Michelin star within three months. Blevins appreciates the team dynamic and the relentless pursuit of perfection, noting the blend of British and Japanese influences in her current kitchen.
David Condon, 29, from Maynooth, Co Kildare, likens working in a Michelin-starred kitchen to playing in the Champions League due to the high level of camaraderie and intense creativity. After his education in Ireland, he secured a position at ABaC, a three-star restaurant in Barcelona, where he experienced a constantly evolving menu and new techniques. Condon has since moved to Disfrutar, another three-star Barcelona establishment recently named The World’s Best Restaurant in 2024. Claire O’Halloran, 37, from Navan, Co Meath, developed her passion for fine dining during her culinary studies in Dublin. She was inspired to move to Stockholm after a colleague, eventually working with acclaimed chef Mathias Dahlgren and earning a star as sous chef at Ergo. She is now transitioning to a role at Fotografiska museum, focusing on sustainability.
Eoghan Coady, 36, from Blanchardstown, Dublin, unexpectedly found his calling in the kitchen after studying anthropology and teaching. He progressed from Dublin’s Pearl Brasserie to Copenhagen, eventually becoming Kitchen Manager at the renowned two-starred Noma. Coady describes his role as wide-ranging, involving everything from office work to foraging, and emphasizes Noma’s culture of continuous innovation and high standards, which has evolved to be more compassionate over the years. Tadhg Lennon, 26, from Glasnevin, Dublin, did not initially seek Michelin stars but found himself in starred kitchens due to influential mentors. His career journey includes working at Coppinger Row in Dublin, Darby’s in London, and Chapter One, eventually becoming sous chef at Trinity in Clapham, a Michelin-starred restaurant. Lennon credits his classically French-trained mentors for shaping his culinary progression.
Overall, the article highlights a common thread among these chefs: a deep passion for their craft, a willingness to travel and learn from diverse culinary traditions, and an appreciation for the demanding but rewarding environment of Michelin-starred kitchens. Their stories reflect the dedication required to achieve excellence in the global fine dining industry and the impact of mentorship and international experience on their professional development.
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