
Inside the Kitchen: Seven Questions with Chef Suzanne Cupps of Lola’s
Chef Suzanne Cupps, with two decades of experience in New York City's culinary scene, now spearheads her own restaurant, Lola's. Her venture is described as a deeply personal project, emphasizing quiet precision, seasonal produce, and subtle references to her Southern and Filipino heritage. The article explores Cupps' culinary philosophy, her aspirations as a chef and mentor, and the dishes that bring her the most satisfaction.
When asked about her deserted island meal, Chef Cupps envisions any type of rice bowl featuring fish, such as poke, chirashi, or crab rice, complemented by fresh herbs. This preference highlights her appreciation for fresh ingredients and simple, yet flavorful, combinations. Her most poignant food memories are not centered on dining as a patron but rather on her experiences cooking on the line at restaurants like Annisa and Gramercy. She emphasizes that her career in cooking was initially driven by the environment and the passion within the kitchen, rather than a specific love for food itself, underscoring the communal and intense nature of professional cooking.
For Chef Cupps, fine dining transcends superficial aesthetics, focusing instead on a meticulous and thoughtful approach to service, food, and beverages. She believes that Lola's, despite not having the traditional finishes of some fine dining establishments, embodies this philosophy through its high-quality cuisine and expertly trained staff. This perspective redefines fine dining as an experience rooted in precision and care rather than ostentation.
As a restaurant owner, Cupps' primary goal for Lola's is to establish it as a successful and impactful presence in New York. She aims to create a restaurant with a distinct point of view, supporting local farmers and sustainable sourcing. Her ambition extends beyond merely staying afloat; she wants Lola's to be a destination that patrons frequently return to due to exceptional service, beverages, and food quality. She acknowledges the competitive nature of the New York restaurant scene and is committed to maintaining high standards. Looking ahead, she hopes Lola's will be considered an important establishment in New York for years to come. Additionally, Cupps is dedicated to teaching and mentoring her staff, recognizing the importance of patience, training, and fostering an environment where both new and experienced team members can learn and grow.
Her restaurant bucket list includes visiting establishments run by her friends, such as Birdie’s in Austin, Charlie’s in Napa Valley, and Birch in Milwaukee, demonstrating her commitment to supporting her peers in the industry. Chef Cupps' food and cooking philosophy is rooted in sourcing high-quality ingredients, particularly varieties of vegetables, grains, and heritage meats. She believes that exciting cooking comes from showcasing these ingredients, allowing the hard work of farmers to shine through. She achieves this by employing various techniques, unexpected flavor combinations, or surprising twists. Her comfort food choices include ranch dressing and, nostalgically, pancakes for dinner, a dish her mother occasionally prepared, highlighting a preference for savory and comforting items over overly sweet ones.
Suzanne Cupps is further described as a chef whose style is rooted in New American cuisine, influenced by her Filipino and Southern heritage. Her approach is characterized by quiet intentionality, drawing from her fine-dining background, hospitality roots, and a deep respect for local ingredients. This blend of personal history and professional rigor defines her culinary identity at Lola’s.
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