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Diesel Black Gold A/W 2018
The Diesel Black Gold Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, presented in Milan, showcased a distinctive blend of cultural influences, drawing inspiration from diverse free-spirited cultures such as Peru, Native America, Morocco, and India. Creative director Andreas Melbostad envisioned a 'nomadic punk' aesthetic, emphasizing spirituality and bohemianism through various design elements. This approach resonated with a broader trend observed in Milan's fashion shows, where cultural cross-pollination was evident, as seen at Marni, which incorporated Chinese brocades with English tweeds and Masai stripes.
The collection's core pieces, including leather jackets, bombers, military pea-coats, and denim pants, were elevated with artisanal detailing. A prominent feature was the incorporation of multi-color Navajo carpet patterns as inserts, adding a rich textual and visual dimension. Detachable Navajo blanket linings were also utilized in separates, providing versatility and an additional layer of cultural reference. Peruvian Baja sweaters were reinterpreted into boxy tunics, aligning with the collection's relaxed yet fashion-forward silhouette. Military quilted garments were meticulously reworked and adorned with Native American stones and beads, further reinforcing the blend of utilitarian design with intricate cultural craftsmanship. This fusion resulted in a collection that projected a definitive uniform for a 'new rave traveller,' suggesting a contemporary take on adventurous and unconventional style.
Accessories played a crucial role in completing the clannish mood of the collection. Footwear included fringed laced-up shoes and boots designed to echo traditional moccasins, enhancing the nomadic theme. Sleek Santiago-style boots featured Western buckles, adding a touch of rugged elegance. Bags and belts were crafted with stitched leather and multi-stud motifs, contributing to the overall aesthetic of artisanal quality and cultural embellishment. The collection successfully merged various cultural elements with contemporary fashion sensibilities, offering a cohesive and impactful statement.
The Diesel Black Gold label, established in 2007 by DIESEL, was created to function as a more contemporary and fashion-forward extension of the main brand. It is known for its irreverent, youthful energy and luxurious finishes. The A/W 2018 collection continued this tradition by applying high-level artisanal techniques to street staples, showcasing a balance between everyday wearability and high fashion. The photography for the collection was done by Jason Lloyd-Evans, capturing the essence and details of the garments.
The article was authored by Dal Chodha, a London-based writer and editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum, a project exploring the intersection of fashion editorial and academia. Chodha contributes to various international publications on fashion, art, and culture and serves as a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. His academic background includes over a decade of work in academic institutions, and he is currently the Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020, he released his first book, SHOW NOTES, which combined journalism, poetry, and provocation.
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