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This Throwback Fabric Trend Is Back in a Major Way | What Is Moiré?

Moiré, a rippling silk textile known for its distinctive wavy pattern, is experiencing a significant resurgence in fashion and interior design. Historically, this fabric, often referred to as "watered silk," first emerged in Europe as early as the 18th century. Its characteristic wood-grain appearance was traditionally created by pressing and steaming two layers of horizontally ribbed fabric together, with misaligned ribs forming the unique wave. While modern techniques can replicate the moiré effect through printing and weaving, the authentic "moiré antique" method involves meticulous craftsmanship, as demonstrated by Humphries Weaving during the 2014 refurbishment of the Cumberland Art Gallery at Hampton Court Palace. The current revival sees moiré appearing in diverse applications, from high fashion runways to sophisticated interior spaces. Designer Christian Siriano showcased a maximalist cape ensemble in acid green moiré silk in his Spring/Summer 2022 collection, while Tanya Taylor's pre-fall 2022 collection features textured taffeta with ruffles. For those looking to incorporate moiré into their wardrobe, options range from J. Crew shoes to a sleek little black dress by Brandon Maxwell. The trend also extends beyond traditional silk, with items like a Schumacher throw woven from merino wool featuring a moiré design, similar to faux bois. In interior design, moiré is being embraced for its luxurious glamour and historical resonance. Robert McKinley utilized salmon-colored moiré silk to cover the walls of the dining rooms at the Sant Ambroeus location in New York's Financial District. McKinley found the fabric to be an elegant yet versatile choice, drawing inspiration from classic European textiles found in Italian theaters and 18th- and 19th-century cafés, as well as formalwear. He aimed for a material that evokes a sense of recognition and connection, albeit from a distant past. Design duo Duncan Campbell and Charlotte Rey also incorporated moiré into their "Fabrizia cocktail chair" for the Invisible Collection, upholstering it in a vibrant lavender Dedar moiré fabric. Campbell explains that the fabric's layered historical associations made it ideal for a piece that blends the elegance of a Jean-Antoine Watteau gown with the geometric impact of David Hicks's interiors, offering a historically anchored, light, fun, and irreverent aesthetic. Rey emphasizes the desire for permanence and the idea of furniture as future heirlooms, noting moiré's versatility and chic decorative quality without being overly frilly or chintzy. Fiona Leahy, another designer, is lining her London bedroom walls with pale pink moiré fabric, a decision that is both aesthetic and symbolic. Following a house flood, the "watered silk" provided a poetic solution, signaling feminine refinement while cheekily acknowledging the mishap. She appreciates moiré's subtle, almost invisible pattern, which she describes as an illusion of a shadow. Additionally, she connects moiré with festive occasions, associating it with evening dresses, beautiful ribbons, and grand architectural spaces, giving her room a perpetually celebratory ambiance, even during quiet hibernation, as seen in a moiré-covered powder room in a Brooklyn apartment designed by Jett Projects. This widespread adoption underscores moiré's return as a prominent and adaptable trend.

46 months ago

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